Damn thing went bad.
now the bearings went bad.

****!


anyways.
Anything I can do? I don't have the spare 90 dollars to drop on this sucker after spending 120 on the Vacuum pump.

Anyone have any idea's of what to do for the time bein?
I can probably ****** the one of the 302. the pumps are the same?

 

i think that they are. do you need the clutch or the whole thing?

 

Used one from a wrecking yard, or would that be more trouble than it's worth? Can they be rebuilt, probably just a bearing failure.

 

William, Pretty sure you have a FS10 Compressor. A new bearing can be pressed in if the clutch plate and shoe are OK. Remove the center bolt (keep track of the shims), remove the clutch plate....shoe. Remove & install bearing....reinstall clutch, Check air gap (.015")

TIMKEN Part # 5001KFF $25-30

 

That is just what I was thinking but wasn't sure. Where did you find the picture Cuda Jim?

 

Rockauto dot com
Plagiarism is alive and well on the internet

 

yea, my clutch is trashed. and I have 10 dollars.

Was looking for more of a backyard mechanic solution.

I wish I could just replace the bearings on there. Getting the damn thing off might be an issue, unless it just pops on.

*Shrugs*
If I need to replace the clutch to just get home, then thats fine.
But i'm pretty sure I smoked the seals inside the ac compressor.
The pully was so hot last night it was smoking. haha.

I was hoping its the same unit on my 302 so I can just swap them out.

 

Magneto was smoked. Pump is trashed, but I have a new idler, magneto, and clutch.
Pump bearings went bad too. probably the cause of the whole thing to begin with.

I wanted to let everyone know, that with a little patience, you do not need any special tools to change this out.

I will say though, the radiator shroud makes it a PITA.
So, if you have done TJBeggs mod on it, then you'll have more hammer room. I used a 4 lb hammer and a copper bar and rod to influence the magneto on, and then the idler just slips over top of the shaft and as a lock ring to hold it in place.

To get the magneto off, I used a small hammer and a really thick chizle. The 4 bolts on the pump behind it basically made good pry points, so i just wedged the chizle between there and the mag, and then worked my way around.

I don't suggest doing this with new parts, but hey, if your in a bind.. do what you gota do.

 

just wondering... how do know if the clutch on the AC is bad? When I turn my AC on the clutch engages for a second then disengages. It does this over and over. I think it might do this just when freon is low?? I tried charging it with one of those can jobs into the black can looking thing left of the turbo- still same prob

 

over charging will do the same thing. its hard to say without gauges on both sides

 

I'm not sure on our trucks.
Usually they wont cycle without any coolant in them, but I don't see how the coolant can effect that in our system at all.

I've heard of the clutch doing what your's is doing, but i'm not 100% sure on what causes it.

if there isn't enough pressure on the compressor, it might send a signal to disengage.


Have you physically watched your clutch while it was doing this?

To check the compressor, with the truck off, grab the AC Clutch and see if it spins by hand. Just the part on the end. It should free spin easily.

There is always the possibility of a leak on our trucks, The schrader valves on the system to allow maintenance go bad, as well as vibrations to a connection to cause a leak.


I don't always understand the whole can thing, but you gotta put it in on the correct side of the system, there is a low and a high side. I think you'd want to use the low side, due to there not being much pressure in the can.
The vehicle should be running as well.

If you have a bad leak in your coolant system, there really is no way for the new stuff to get in. You pull a vacuum on a system for more than just cleaning it. It helps pull the coolant in also.

 

You can jump the clutch with 2 leads to the battery also to see if the magneto is working properly.

one to negative one to positive.
its just an electro magnet. could just be bad.

 

if a system is low,not empty, the compressor will engage causing the pressure to drop on the lowside kickinc out the lowpressure switch. if there is to much of a charge, the pressure will rise on the high side kicking out the high pressure switch. after either of the above happen, and the compressor is disengaged, the pressure on both sides will equalize and start the whole process over (as fast as a few seconds to as long as a minute). if there is a block at the orifice tube, both of these things can happen with the right amount of charge. that is why it is best to have gauges on both sides to see what is going on. the low pressure switch is what causes our ac systems to cycle, as the compressor runs, the low side drops and the high side rises. this is because the compressor is always changing rpm"s due to driving. BTW i suck at trying to explain things, any questions, just ask