Please Help Me Set My Timing.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Portsmouth, Va
Please Help Me Set My Timing.
Aight guys, I'm in need of some help. I replaced the coil and distributor on my truck. It died on me during a 5 hour drive, with about 2 hours to go. Fuel pumps are all new and it showed signs of loosing spark. 1987 Ford F150 with the 300.
I can't get it timed just right, something I must be doing wrong. I got it to run for about a minute, then it died.
When I did that, I set #1 TDC, and made sure the rotor was pointing at number one.
I have no timing light, but if I did I can't keep it running long enough to check. If base timing is 10BTDC, shouldn't I be using that mark and making sure rotor points at number 1? Spout should be disconnected the entire time right? There's something I'm missing guys. Help me out.
I can't get it timed just right, something I must be doing wrong. I got it to run for about a minute, then it died.
When I did that, I set #1 TDC, and made sure the rotor was pointing at number one.
I have no timing light, but if I did I can't keep it running long enough to check. If base timing is 10BTDC, shouldn't I be using that mark and making sure rotor points at number 1? Spout should be disconnected the entire time right? There's something I'm missing guys. Help me out.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
Beg borrow or rent a timing light! Ford Fuel Injection Setting the timing
Without the benefit of the year, engine, or any background info as to why the Dist. & coil were replaced in the first place, I'm going to "guess" the TFI module! Actually, "mechanic error" is running nose to nose, and gaining on the final stretch! And just for giggles, a KOEO error code scan!
Without the benefit of the year, engine, or any background info as to why the Dist. & coil were replaced in the first place, I'm going to "guess" the TFI module! Actually, "mechanic error" is running nose to nose, and gaining on the final stretch! And just for giggles, a KOEO error code scan!
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Portsmouth, Va
Haha, naw man, no secrets. I was in a rush to meet my girl for lunch. I'm back now. The truck is TFI, and yes the module is on the dizzy. I replaced it in May actually. But I'm gonna go out here and retime the truck to see if it will run long enough for me to use the light. If it cranks but never starts, then I will take off this module and run to the parts store to get it tested/replaced.
I've replaced so much on this truck (I bought it missing badly for $300), and will do whatever I can to keep her running, I will not give up on it.
Thankyou for the good reads. Any questions just ask me.
I've replaced so much on this truck (I bought it missing badly for $300), and will do whatever I can to keep her running, I will not give up on it.
Thankyou for the good reads. Any questions just ask me.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
Sounds like your getting a handle on it. Again, you can do a KOEO (key on engine off) scan w/o it running. The results may surprise you. Another piece of the puzzle if noting else. It may tell you the PiP's bad out of the box or all is well w/ it. Spout plug out when checking/ adjusting base time. Then replace plug & check your timing again, to make sure ECU advance is then being added. You should then see timing w/ ECU advance plus what you set base time at.
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Senior User
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From: Portsmouth, Va
Wow. What a surprise. So I am finding TDC on #1. Turns out my timing marks are not correct. I was reading about it, but didn't expect it to happen to me, but yea they off. Anyways, upon putting the dizzy in exactly the way it came off, my number 1 tower is still the correct number one tower.
Now, I yanked all the wires off the cap, and before reinstalling them I decided to ohm my old coil. 9.4Kohms on my not so accurate multimeter.
Decided to ohm the NEW coil. Upon removing the wire from the coil itself the tab came with it. DEFECT. Had to use needle nose pliers to remove it. Ohm'd it. 7.5Kohms. So yea, looks like I have a bad NEW coil. Running to the parts store...again.
Oh, and I took my module up to get it tested, of course they didn't have the tester, so I just bought a new one. I'm keeping my old one. But yea they sold me a bad coil.
Now, I yanked all the wires off the cap, and before reinstalling them I decided to ohm my old coil. 9.4Kohms on my not so accurate multimeter.
Decided to ohm the NEW coil. Upon removing the wire from the coil itself the tab came with it. DEFECT. Had to use needle nose pliers to remove it. Ohm'd it. 7.5Kohms. So yea, looks like I have a bad NEW coil. Running to the parts store...again.
Oh, and I took my module up to get it tested, of course they didn't have the tester, so I just bought a new one. I'm keeping my old one. But yea they sold me a bad coil.
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Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
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From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
You know there's two TDC's right? One on the compression stroke & one on the exhaust stroke. Make sure your working with the compression stroke, or you'll end up 180 degrees out! Your thumb on the plug hole will ID the compression stroke on it's way up with pressure build.
Primary resistance should be .3- 1.0 @ 75 degrees F. What are the specs for the new coil. You want to get one rated .35-.45 Ohm.
Primary resistance should be .3- 1.0 @ 75 degrees F. What are the specs for the new coil. You want to get one rated .35-.45 Ohm.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Portsmouth, Va
Haha, yea I know there are two compression strokes. Still haven't figured out why my 300 has 8 spark plugs though
But yea, I eyeballed the rocker arms for number one to identify compression stroke. I'll double it with the thumb check tomorrow. I'm done messing with it today, ol lady bout to be home.
I returned that coil, I'll just use mine. I also had them order another dizzy. I'm confident I'm not getting any spark still. They can only get me remand dizzys. As you said earlier, PIP could be bad out the box. If it is Advanceds's fault I'm gonna be a little pissed off. If it's my fault, I'll be a lot pissed off haha.
Everytime I come around to number compression, the rotor is pointing towards the same number one on the cap as my old dizzy. Oh yea, I splashed a dab of ether into the intake manifold, she didn't light off...
But yea, I eyeballed the rocker arms for number one to identify compression stroke. I'll double it with the thumb check tomorrow. I'm done messing with it today, ol lady bout to be home.
I returned that coil, I'll just use mine. I also had them order another dizzy. I'm confident I'm not getting any spark still. They can only get me remand dizzys. As you said earlier, PIP could be bad out the box. If it is Advanceds's fault I'm gonna be a little pissed off. If it's my fault, I'll be a lot pissed off haha.
Everytime I come around to number compression, the rotor is pointing towards the same number one on the cap as my old dizzy. Oh yea, I splashed a dab of ether into the intake manifold, she didn't light off...
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From: Maine, Virginia
Aight guys, I'm in need of some help. I replaced the coil and distributor on my truck. It died on me during a 5 hour drive, with about 2 hours to go. Fuel pumps are all new and it showed signs of loosing spark. 1987 Ford F150 with the 300.
I can't get it timed just right, something I must be doing wrong. I got it to run for about a minute, then it died.
When I did that, I set #1 TDC, and made sure the rotor was pointing at number one.
I have no timing light, but if I did I can't keep it running long enough to check. If base timing is 10BTDC, shouldn't I be using that mark and making sure rotor points at number 1? Spout should be disconnected the entire time right? There's something I'm missing guys. Help me out.
I can't get it timed just right, something I must be doing wrong. I got it to run for about a minute, then it died.
When I did that, I set #1 TDC, and made sure the rotor was pointing at number one.
I have no timing light, but if I did I can't keep it running long enough to check. If base timing is 10BTDC, shouldn't I be using that mark and making sure rotor points at number 1? Spout should be disconnected the entire time right? There's something I'm missing guys. Help me out.
Yo dude, I live here in Hampton as well. I don't have a timing light but I have pretty good inventory of hand tools. If you ever need a hand, give me a shout.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
My 302 has 9! 8 plugs in the engine & 1 in the glove box.
Yesterday. "JCMS" had me going with commenting he needed to check the timing chain slop on his I-6!
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Senior User
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From: Portsmouth, Va
Timing chain on an I6!? Please. We all know I6s have a timing pump haha.
I called Advanced, told them to order me another dizzy. So in the morning I'm pulling one remand for another. This remand also comes with yet another ignition module, so I'll be using that one.
I'm definitely on compression stroke, definitely pointed at number one, so it should at least run albeit very ****ty. I'm smelling fuel, which means it's not burning.
ymeski, are there not two relays or something attached to the air filter box? Main relay? Or do I not need to worry about that?
And tseekins, I'm not in Hampton right now, I'm on a week vacation trip to Oak Island, North Carolina. Truck died 125 miles out haha.
I called Advanced, told them to order me another dizzy. So in the morning I'm pulling one remand for another. This remand also comes with yet another ignition module, so I'll be using that one.
I'm definitely on compression stroke, definitely pointed at number one, so it should at least run albeit very ****ty. I'm smelling fuel, which means it's not burning.
ymeski, are there not two relays or something attached to the air filter box? Main relay? Or do I not need to worry about that?
And tseekins, I'm not in Hampton right now, I'm on a week vacation trip to Oak Island, North Carolina. Truck died 125 miles out haha.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
Timing chain on an I6!? Please. We all know I6s have a timing pump haha.
I called Advanced, told them to order me another dizzy. So in the morning I'm pulling one remand for another. This remand also comes with yet another ignition module, so I'll be using that one.
I'm definitely on compression stroke, definitely pointed at number one, so it should at least run albeit very ****ty. I'm smelling fuel, which means it's not burning.
ymeski, are there not two relays or something attached to the air filter box? Main relay? Or do I not need to worry about that?
And tseekins, I'm not in Hampton right now, I'm on a week vacation trip to Oak Island, North Carolina. Truck died 125 miles out haha.
I called Advanced, told them to order me another dizzy. So in the morning I'm pulling one remand for another. This remand also comes with yet another ignition module, so I'll be using that one.
I'm definitely on compression stroke, definitely pointed at number one, so it should at least run albeit very ****ty. I'm smelling fuel, which means it's not burning.
ymeski, are there not two relays or something attached to the air filter box? Main relay? Or do I not need to worry about that?
And tseekins, I'm not in Hampton right now, I'm on a week vacation trip to Oak Island, North Carolina. Truck died 125 miles out haha.
The PCM relay has to actuate, for the Fuel pump relay to activate. Smells like your ok!
After you put humpty dumpty back together again, if a no start condition continues, do a KOEO error code scan!
You won't vaporize, I swear.......not right away anyway!
Who knows, the ECU may just be waitin ta spill it's guts!
