Please Help Me Set My Timing.
DreadyDiggs you need to step back and get back to basics, compression, fuel, and spark. Which is missing? You checked compression, so how about spark, it's the next easiest to check? I suggest you leave the timing light on and point it at yourself, you will notice when it doesn't flash if the ignition cuts off. And find a way to get a real timing mark, either find and mark it using TDC or replace your balancer.
Chassing mystery FI problems will do no good until you can be sure about the ignition.
Spark:
New Distributor and ignition module, new plugs, new coil, new cap and rotor, new plug wires.
Fuel:
New high pressure fuel pump, pumps in tanks are new (I installed in Feb.), tanks are new (I installed in Feb.), new fuel filter, new fuel pressure regulator.
SUNDAY when the truck died I checked fuel pressure and broke my fuel pressure gauge in the process and fuel was good. I haven't touched fuel since that check.
Everything dealing with spark was replaced during the past week, besides the computer itself.
The truck starts and runs, everytime. Just very violent and it tries it's heart out to find an idle, never finds it. I'm also getting a little backfiring from the exhaust.
This just don't sound like a spark or fuel problem to me now. Maybe it's how many new parts are on the truck I don't know. But I'll go back and check everything again.
DreadyDiggs you need to step back and get back to basics, compression, fuel, and spark. Which is missing? You checked compression, so how about spark, it's the next easiest to check? I suggest you leave the timing light on and point it at yourself, you will notice when it doesn't flash if the ignition cuts off. And find a way to get a real timing mark, either find and mark it using TDC or replace your balancer.
Chassing mystery FI problems will do no good until you can be sure about the ignition.
Anyway, Let us not forget it failed the IAC disconnect test!
Yes it failed the IAC test, doesn't say alot though given the rest of what's going on. Does give me an idea though, could try blocking the IAC ports and seeing if the idle drops, if not the air is getting in elsewhere and the IAC is always closed anyway.
Ohhh and didn't the EGR come up at some point in this thread? Is it still hooked up or have you blocked it off yet to remove it from the diagnostics.
Yes it failed the IAC test, doesn't say alot though given the rest of what's going on. Does give me an idea though, could try blocking the IAC ports and seeing if the idle drops, if not the air is getting in elsewhere and the IAC is always closed anyway.
Ohhh and didn't the EGR come up at some point in this thread? Is it still hooked up or have you blocked it off yet to remove it from the diagnostics.
On his EGR, I think their may be something in here about it, but I don't remember specifically. 8 pages! Pretty sure he has one but it hasn't been addressed. Personally, I don't get involved at all if the EGR or smog pump has been deleted. Hard enough to deal w/ these when everything's there!
I'm gonna try a junkyard IAC pretty soon (and try and get a balancer while I'm at it), gotta get back in the swing of working now that vacation's over so yea my pace gonna slow down a little bit.
Chances the computer is telling the EGR valve to stay open once the engine cranks? I don't know.
Once again I can't pull codes. If the truck hasn't thrown any codes by now I'm shocked. I jumper the STI connector lead to the SIG RTN lead, and stare at my CEL, never does anything. Like I said light used to go out after pumps primed, now it stays on. I'm throwing the truck back together soon to make sure the light is on while running, if it'll run long enough.
I will be making good use of my multimeter tomorrow before work. Master Tech I work with says it sounds like an electrical problem somewhere.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
My timing pump filter is clean. My oil filter turbo wastegate has new ball joints.
Chances the computer is telling the EGR valve to stay open once the engine cranks? I don't know.
Once again I can't pull codes. If the truck hasn't thrown any codes by now I'm shocked. I jumper the STI connector lead to the SIG RTN lead, and stare at my CEL, never does anything. Like I said light used to go out after pumps primed, now it stays on. I'm throwing the truck back together soon to make sure the light is on while running, if it'll run long enough.
I will be making good use of my multimeter tomorrow before work. Master Tech I work with says it sounds like an electrical problem somewhere.
My timing pump filter is clean. My oil filter turbo wastegate has new ball joints.
On another note, got a BRAND NEW IAC Vavlve and BRAND NEW 02 sensor waiting for me at Napa that I'm gonna pick up after work. I know the O2 doesn't have much to do with immediate startup driveablility, but hey my old one is pulled might as well throw in a new one since I don't know it's age. I'll save it though.
Uh...I'm gonna use my timing light to see if spark is acting up on me, and I gotta find another decent fuel pressure kit. Gotta hit up Harbor Freight next week.
Truck needs fuel, air, spark, and voltage signals to idle haha. So I'm gonna eliminate the first three and if all else fails snag a computer while I'm at PNP getting a balancer.
The plugs are not receiving a spark everytime they should. There's a huge delay when you open the throttle. It's an electronic advance so what should I be looking
The coil has constant 12 volts throughout the whole ordeal. TPS voltages are green.
This doesn't really sound like a bad computer to me. I'd think more than just spark would be screwy. PIP inside the dizzy? I'll swap my spare module on right now and see what happens with that.
The plugs are not receiving a spark everytime they should. There's a huge delay when you open the throttle. It's an electronic advance so what should I be looking
The coil has constant 12 volts throughout the whole ordeal. TPS voltages are green.
This doesn't really sound like a bad computer to me. I'd think more than just spark would be screwy. PIP inside the dizzy? I'll swap my spare module on right now and see what happens with that.
What I'm gonna do is try and find one at the junkyard Monday when I go try and get a balancer. I used a timing light and ran it from the coil's tach signal to ground and yea, the light would flash, go dim, flash, go bright, flash, go dim. Going dim is not good.
It's not the ignition module. Both that I have pass all tests I can do. I've been working that multimeter to death haha.
Oh, and let me state, my check engine light goes out while the truck is on. I have no codes still. Could that be a sign the PCM is acting up?



