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Please Help Me Set My Timing.

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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 10:34 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
The Idle should tank when the IAC is disconnected. My theory is the ECU attempts to compensate to some degree to maintain Idle, as best it can, when the IAC becomes dysfunctional. But obviously, the ECU cannot replace the total function of the IAC valve itself. And remember, the IAC cannot produce an error code. Comments welcome.
The ECU isn't that smart.

DreadyDiggs you need to step back and get back to basics, compression, fuel, and spark. Which is missing? You checked compression, so how about spark, it's the next easiest to check? I suggest you leave the timing light on and point it at yourself, you will notice when it doesn't flash if the ignition cuts off. And find a way to get a real timing mark, either find and mark it using TDC or replace your balancer.

Chassing mystery FI problems will do no good until you can be sure about the ignition.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 11:22 PM
  #107  
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Compression checked.

Spark:
New Distributor and ignition module, new plugs, new coil, new cap and rotor, new plug wires.

Fuel:
New high pressure fuel pump, pumps in tanks are new (I installed in Feb.), tanks are new (I installed in Feb.), new fuel filter, new fuel pressure regulator.

SUNDAY when the truck died I checked fuel pressure and broke my fuel pressure gauge in the process and fuel was good. I haven't touched fuel since that check.

Everything dealing with spark was replaced during the past week, besides the computer itself.

The truck starts and runs, everytime. Just very violent and it tries it's heart out to find an idle, never finds it. I'm also getting a little backfiring from the exhaust.

This just don't sound like a spark or fuel problem to me now. Maybe it's how many new parts are on the truck I don't know. But I'll go back and check everything again.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 12:28 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Opossum
The ECU isn't that smart.

DreadyDiggs you need to step back and get back to basics, compression, fuel, and spark. Which is missing? You checked compression, so how about spark, it's the next easiest to check? I suggest you leave the timing light on and point it at yourself, you will notice when it doesn't flash if the ignition cuts off. And find a way to get a real timing mark, either find and mark it using TDC or replace your balancer.

Chassing mystery FI problems will do no good until you can be sure about the ignition.
Well maybe my 87's ECU is!!! Wait "0possum",........your's is an 87' too!........Never mind.(That's what I get for asking for comments!)

Anyway, Let us not forget it failed the IAC disconnect test!
 
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 12:42 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
Well maybe my 87's ECU is!!! Wait "0possum",........your's is an 87' too!........Never mind.(That's what I get for asking for comments!)
FWIW mines carbed sooo it's realllllly dumb.

Yes it failed the IAC test, doesn't say alot though given the rest of what's going on. Does give me an idea though, could try blocking the IAC ports and seeing if the idle drops, if not the air is getting in elsewhere and the IAC is always closed anyway.

Ohhh and didn't the EGR come up at some point in this thread? Is it still hooked up or have you blocked it off yet to remove it from the diagnostics.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 01:04 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by Opossum
FWIW mines carbed sooo it's realllllly dumb.

Yes it failed the IAC test, doesn't say alot though given the rest of what's going on. Does give me an idea though, could try blocking the IAC ports and seeing if the idle drops, if not the air is getting in elsewhere and the IAC is always closed anyway.

Ohhh and didn't the EGR come up at some point in this thread? Is it still hooked up or have you blocked it off yet to remove it from the diagnostics.
Well the ECU has some ability to alter idle. My Alternator (I know, not exactly the same) just pooched on my way home tonight and as soon a the Bat. light came on, my idle changed from 650 to exactly 1K. And it would not deviate. Something told it to do that!

On his EGR, I think their may be something in here about it, but I don't remember specifically. 8 pages! Pretty sure he has one but it hasn't been addressed. Personally, I don't get involved at all if the EGR or smog pump has been deleted. Hard enough to deal w/ these when everything's there!
 
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 10:20 AM
  #111  
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I have smog and EGR. Haven't tried blocking EGR off yet. Will be trying soon to see if that helps.

I'm gonna try a junkyard IAC pretty soon (and try and get a balancer while I'm at it), gotta get back in the swing of working now that vacation's over so yea my pace gonna slow down a little bit.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 11:20 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
Well the ECU has some ability to alter idle. My Alternator (I know, not exactly the same) just pooched on my way home tonight and as soon a the Bat. light came on, my idle changed from 650 to exactly 1K. And it would not deviate. Something told it to do that!
Hmm kinda cool, never heard of that before, kinda curious though now, think next time I work on one I'll disable the alt and see what happens, if I remember anyway.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 06:58 PM
  #113  
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So it just started to rain. I went ahead and removed the EGR position sensor trying to see the position of the valve. As it sits now it's closed. Spring is depressed.

Chances the computer is telling the EGR valve to stay open once the engine cranks? I don't know.

Once again I can't pull codes. If the truck hasn't thrown any codes by now I'm shocked. I jumper the STI connector lead to the SIG RTN lead, and stare at my CEL, never does anything. Like I said light used to go out after pumps primed, now it stays on. I'm throwing the truck back together soon to make sure the light is on while running, if it'll run long enough.

I will be making good use of my multimeter tomorrow before work. Master Tech I work with says it sounds like an electrical problem somewhere.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 07:09 PM
  #114  
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Guys, I'm gonna double post, cause maybe I shoulda asked this question sooner....my truck, while trying to find idle, has revved up to about 2K on CLOSED throttle. Someone tell me what might cause that. But it's not a constant bouncy, vacuum leak type idle.

My timing pump filter is clean. My oil filter turbo wastegate has new ball joints.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 07:20 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by DreadyDiggs
So it just started to rain. I went ahead and removed the EGR position sensor trying to see the position of the valve. As it sits now it's closed. Spring is depressed.

Chances the computer is telling the EGR valve to stay open once the engine cranks? I don't know.

Once again I can't pull codes. If the truck hasn't thrown any codes by now I'm shocked. I jumper the STI connector lead to the SIG RTN lead, and stare at my CEL, never does anything. Like I said light used to go out after pumps primed, now it stays on. I'm throwing the truck back together soon to make sure the light is on while running, if it'll run long enough.

I will be making good use of my multimeter tomorrow before work. Master Tech I work with says it sounds like an electrical problem somewhere.
Not how that works. Your EGR could be clogged & not seating correctly when it should be closed. Pooched IAC's don't throw codes.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 07:22 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by DreadyDiggs
Guys, I'm gonna double post, cause maybe I shoulda asked this question sooner....my truck, while trying to find idle, has revved up to about 2K on CLOSED throttle. Someone tell me what might cause that. But it's not a constant bouncy, vacuum leak type idle.

My timing pump filter is clean. My oil filter turbo wastegate has new ball joints.
Check for Vacuum type leaks! Did you ever finish installing your #7 & #8 plugs?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 09:02 PM
  #117  
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Man, that 7th plug went in no problem. 8th is a little more difficult. I'm about to sell this dam truck and tell them it's got a miss and I don't know where from haha.

On another note, got a BRAND NEW IAC Vavlve and BRAND NEW 02 sensor waiting for me at Napa that I'm gonna pick up after work. I know the O2 doesn't have much to do with immediate startup driveablility, but hey my old one is pulled might as well throw in a new one since I don't know it's age. I'll save it though.

Uh...I'm gonna use my timing light to see if spark is acting up on me, and I gotta find another decent fuel pressure kit. Gotta hit up Harbor Freight next week.

Truck needs fuel, air, spark, and voltage signals to idle haha. So I'm gonna eliminate the first three and if all else fails snag a computer while I'm at PNP getting a balancer.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 06:40 PM
  #118  
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Well. Used timing light today to watch and see what spark is doing. Truck can't hold spark. That's the problem. The truck starts almost instantly.

The plugs are not receiving a spark everytime they should. There's a huge delay when you open the throttle. It's an electronic advance so what should I be looking

The coil has constant 12 volts throughout the whole ordeal. TPS voltages are green.

This doesn't really sound like a bad computer to me. I'd think more than just spark would be screwy. PIP inside the dizzy? I'll swap my spare module on right now and see what happens with that.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 09:41 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by DreadyDiggs
Well. Used timing light today to watch and see what spark is doing. Truck can't hold spark. That's the problem. The truck starts almost instantly.

The plugs are not receiving a spark everytime they should. There's a huge delay when you open the throttle. It's an electronic advance so what should I be looking

The coil has constant 12 volts throughout the whole ordeal. TPS voltages are green.

This doesn't really sound like a bad computer to me. I'd think more than just spark would be screwy. PIP inside the dizzy? I'll swap my spare module on right now and see what happens with that.
Didn't you replace the Dist.? New or rebuilt?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 06:15 AM
  #120  
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Remand distributor. Can't get it new.

What I'm gonna do is try and find one at the junkyard Monday when I go try and get a balancer. I used a timing light and ran it from the coil's tach signal to ground and yea, the light would flash, go dim, flash, go bright, flash, go dim. Going dim is not good.

It's not the ignition module. Both that I have pass all tests I can do. I've been working that multimeter to death haha.

Oh, and let me state, my check engine light goes out while the truck is on. I have no codes still. Could that be a sign the PCM is acting up?
 
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