Please Help Me Set My Timing.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
Usually somewhere between 500 and 1000 ohms per foot.
Superconductors? is that a brand of plug wire? I use almost exclusively the Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm wires, 50 ohms per foot, great EM protection, high quality and less $ then MSD.
Edit, duhh the MSD wires, they call them Superconductors, haven't even considered buying any in a while. Great wire, I do admit I love MSD's veriible angle boot, but my experiance says the wire itself isn't as good as the Taylors and they cost more.
Superconductors? is that a brand of plug wire? I use almost exclusively the Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm wires, 50 ohms per foot, great EM protection, high quality and less $ then MSD.
Edit, duhh the MSD wires, they call them Superconductors, haven't even considered buying any in a while. Great wire, I do admit I love MSD's veriible angle boot, but my experiance says the wire itself isn't as good as the Taylors and they cost more.
I have a friend on another Forum that really likes them, so I refer to them as Taylor "Thunderbutts" (opp's another type-o!) I'm guessing they're comparable. I'd never tell him that though!
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
Someone explain this to me.
Here's the results of my dry compression check. Engine cold. All plugs removed.
1. 130 psi
2. 145 psi
3. 145 psi
4. 140 psi
5. 150 psi
6. 145 psi.
Went back and retested number 1. 140 psi.
Retested number 1 again with a cap full of oil. 160 psi.
Someone explain, tell me what else to check. I have a strong feeling my IAB is bad, but could that cause this kind of vacuum problem? If you disconnect it at operating temp, nothing happens. Idle stays the same. Could it have failed shut all of a sudden? But then why would the truck choke on itself if you opened the throttle?
Okay, looking at my vacuum gauge, with the truck idling the way it was I had between 5-10 in. Hg vacuum. The best I could get it to by trying to time it was 15 in. Hg. Normal is about 21.
Here's the results of my dry compression check. Engine cold. All plugs removed.
1. 130 psi
2. 145 psi
3. 145 psi
4. 140 psi
5. 150 psi
6. 145 psi.
Went back and retested number 1. 140 psi.
Retested number 1 again with a cap full of oil. 160 psi.
Someone explain, tell me what else to check. I have a strong feeling my IAB is bad, but could that cause this kind of vacuum problem? If you disconnect it at operating temp, nothing happens. Idle stays the same. Could it have failed shut all of a sudden? But then why would the truck choke on itself if you opened the throttle?
Okay, looking at my vacuum gauge, with the truck idling the way it was I had between 5-10 in. Hg vacuum. The best I could get it to by trying to time it was 15 in. Hg. Normal is about 21.
I wish we could hear it. Anything odd about exhaust color?
You know how to test the IAC (IAB)? doesn't cost anything to test it! I think I mentioned, the IAC itself,will not throw an error code, because it's a valve. Can you run it long enough to reach norm op temp? http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=39
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 374
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From: Portsmouth, Va
It goes past normal operating temp if I run it long enough haha.
Doesn't overheat but gets hotter than what I want it to get, or maybe it would eventuall overheat.
No funny odors or colors from exhaust. No rotten eggs haha. Wouldn't a clogged cat converter smell? NVM, reading further online tells me the smell is a good thing actually. Means the cat is doing work. I'm starting to think I have excess back pressure. A clog somewhere in the exhaust.
I read about how to pull the codes. Ground the STI Input? I grounded it with a stretched paper clip to the chassis.
Now my check engine light just stays on, I see now blinking whatsoever. Before I grounded it, light would come on then go out, before I ever started the truck. Now it just stays on, and I have no plugs in it right now so haven't started it.
Doesn't overheat but gets hotter than what I want it to get, or maybe it would eventuall overheat.
No funny odors or colors from exhaust. No rotten eggs haha. Wouldn't a clogged cat converter smell? NVM, reading further online tells me the smell is a good thing actually. Means the cat is doing work. I'm starting to think I have excess back pressure. A clog somewhere in the exhaust.
I read about how to pull the codes. Ground the STI Input? I grounded it with a stretched paper clip to the chassis.
Now my check engine light just stays on, I see now blinking whatsoever. Before I grounded it, light would come on then go out, before I ever started the truck. Now it just stays on, and I have no plugs in it right now so haven't started it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Compression numbers are fine, balanced is what you want to see more then a high value. High is good yea but take balanced any day!
Oil down the plug hole will or should raise reading on any cylinder with a few thousand miles on it, you want to see that too.
Hows the timing chain? did you check the amount of slack it has? Should be under 5deg.
Oil down the plug hole will or should raise reading on any cylinder with a few thousand miles on it, you want to see that too.
Hows the timing chain? did you check the amount of slack it has? Should be under 5deg.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 374
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From: Portsmouth, Va
No timing chain my good sir. Inline 6. GEARS for life.
Exhaust feeding back up through the valves due to a clog would definitely cause me to hear all that air at the airbox.
They say to test for a clog you check your vacuum at 2500 RPMS. My truck can't do 2500 right now. I have no muffler on the truck, there's a resonator in it's place.
I haven't gone out and shaken the cats yet bout to do that soon, see if I hear rattling.
Exhaust feeding back up through the valves due to a clog would definitely cause me to hear all that air at the airbox.
They say to test for a clog you check your vacuum at 2500 RPMS. My truck can't do 2500 right now. I have no muffler on the truck, there's a resonator in it's place.
I haven't gone out and shaken the cats yet bout to do that soon, see if I hear rattling.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
No timing chain my good sir. Inline 6. GEARS for life.
Exhaust feeding back up through the valves due to a clog would definitely cause me to hear all that air at the airbox.
They say to test for a clog you check your vacuum at 2500 RPMS. My truck can't do 2500 right now. I have no muffler on the truck, there's a resonator in it's place.
I haven't gone out and shaken the cats yet bout to do that soon, see if I hear rattling.
Exhaust feeding back up through the valves due to a clog would definitely cause me to hear all that air at the airbox.
They say to test for a clog you check your vacuum at 2500 RPMS. My truck can't do 2500 right now. I have no muffler on the truck, there's a resonator in it's place.
I haven't gone out and shaken the cats yet bout to do that soon, see if I hear rattling.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
Two Cat's? 87' 200K w/ both original Cat's? My 87's Cat's never made it to 80K for the Cat's, because the P/O liked to run higher octane fuel & went long times between tune ups. Which will kill Cat's. If Cat's are pooched, go w/ a single hi-capacity replacement Cat. Cheaper/better!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
No timing chain my good sir. Inline 6. GEARS for life.
Exhaust feeding back up through the valves due to a clog would definitely cause me to hear all that air at the airbox.
They say to test for a clog you check your vacuum at 2500 RPMS. My truck can't do 2500 right now. I have no muffler on the truck, there's a resonator in it's place.
I haven't gone out and shaken the cats yet bout to do that soon, see if I hear rattling.
Exhaust feeding back up through the valves due to a clog would definitely cause me to hear all that air at the airbox.
They say to test for a clog you check your vacuum at 2500 RPMS. My truck can't do 2500 right now. I have no muffler on the truck, there's a resonator in it's place.
I haven't gone out and shaken the cats yet bout to do that soon, see if I hear rattling.
Ok does it have the egr valve still, is it fully closed? Are you 100% sure it is?
Trying not to re cover old ground but yet avoid re reading so many pages!
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
When my Cat was on it's 9th life, the symptom resembled a jumped timing chain! (Till it blew out the seam of it's casing. After that, it ran normal again) What do the plugs look like when pulled?
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Portsmouth, Va
Plugs look half fouled already. These are what...4 day old plugs haha.
I have an idea how to isolate where this backpressure is coming from. As far as the EGR, I don't know about it's position. I'll look into testing the EGR very soon
As for the cats, I tapped on them as well as the resonator, and didn't hear any abnormal sounds.
I have an idea how to isolate where this backpressure is coming from. As far as the EGR, I don't know about it's position. I'll look into testing the EGR very soon
As for the cats, I tapped on them as well as the resonator, and didn't hear any abnormal sounds.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
I had the cat removed from my 94, when they removed the cat and muffler to put on a new muffler and tail pipe they found the muffler contained all the contents from the cat.
The truck did run but was way low power wise, tapping on the cat would have shown nothing is what I'm getting at.
You need to verify the egr valve is fully closed, cut a piece of sheet metal to fit between it and the intake to block its port if necessary. Dime nickle or penny laying in the tubes fitting what have ya.
Might want to disconnect the "in" side of the cat, to test it without it a minute.
The truck did run but was way low power wise, tapping on the cat would have shown nothing is what I'm getting at.
You need to verify the egr valve is fully closed, cut a piece of sheet metal to fit between it and the intake to block its port if necessary. Dime nickle or penny laying in the tubes fitting what have ya.
Might want to disconnect the "in" side of the cat, to test it without it a minute.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
Plugs look half fouled already. These are what...4 day old plugs haha.
I have an idea how to isolate where this backpressure is coming from. As far as the EGR, I don't know about it's position. I'll look into testing the EGR very soon
As for the cats, I tapped on them as well as the resonator, and didn't hear any abnormal sounds.
I have an idea how to isolate where this backpressure is coming from. As far as the EGR, I don't know about it's position. I'll look into testing the EGR very soon
As for the cats, I tapped on them as well as the resonator, and didn't hear any abnormal sounds.
If they fuse closed, no rattle! I believe, over 3 PSI at the O2 bung hole constitutes back-pressure.
Remove the O2 temporarily. So the lights on, when connected & removed. You should be used to the light being on by now anyway. I'll bet your o2 looks like crap too!
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 374
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From: Portsmouth, Va
Well here's what I've found out today. I had the truck running long enough to try and time it using the vacuum gauge. I can get it right at normal vacuum but it's kinda erratic and the truck does not smooth out.
It tries it's best to keep itself running, but eventually does die. Idle Air Bypass passed all tests (continuity, ohm, and voltage) but they do say if you disconnect it at any point in time idle is supposed to drop. Last time I did that idle change. I'm leaving mine on now until truck can actually run.
Removed and disconnected O2 sensor. Truck behaved the same way without it in place, just louder haha. Did not smooth out at all. Will test again tomorrow to see if the 02 being out helps after backpressure has died down (assuming excess backpressure). I'll put a new sensor in whenever I figure out this thing out.
I need another fuel pressure gauge. Just for peace of mind haha.
It tries it's best to keep itself running, but eventually does die. Idle Air Bypass passed all tests (continuity, ohm, and voltage) but they do say if you disconnect it at any point in time idle is supposed to drop. Last time I did that idle change. I'm leaving mine on now until truck can actually run.
Removed and disconnected O2 sensor. Truck behaved the same way without it in place, just louder haha. Did not smooth out at all. Will test again tomorrow to see if the 02 being out helps after backpressure has died down (assuming excess backpressure). I'll put a new sensor in whenever I figure out this thing out.
I need another fuel pressure gauge. Just for peace of mind haha.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
Likes: 560
From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
The Idle should tank when the IAC is disconnected. My theory is the ECU attempts to compensate to some degree to maintain Idle, as best it can, when the IAC becomes dysfunctional. But obviously, the ECU cannot replace the total function of the IAC valve itself. And remember, the IAC cannot produce an error code. Comments welcome.