I looked for that thread but didn't have any luck, on top of that I found a bunch the pictures where no longer being hosted. Odds the pictures in that thread are still hosted would be slim now to I bet.

 

It's all good. I'll start her up and time her tomorrow and probably not switch to the rear tank if I can help it haha.

 

Excuse me if I'm wrong but if you still haven't pulled your codes, I'd agree with Ymeski and say you may be very surprised.
Just because that little bulb isn't lit doesn't mean there aren't codes!

 

Haven't pulled any codes. I'll have to worry about that after I hit the road tomorrow haha.

When I get home I have to pull codes and have to go to the junkyard and get another harmonic balancer.

 

You guy's talkin about this for the tank selector valve 87'-89'? Ford E

 

Excellent read.

Ladies and gentleman, I just drove my truck for the first time in a week. I had a pool of water in the bed that poured out as i drove off haha.

She's running great, but I have no idea what I've got her timed at. The only difference I notice is a SLIGHT pause (think SHORT turbo lag) when I first hit second gear. No pinging under load, no pinging at idle. Rev her up she calms down. Idle is at about 850ish.

I'm gassed up, but I'm really afraid to switch to the rear tank right now. I don't wanna have to pull over and reset the diaphragm. Already got cussed out by my boss, who hung up in my face after he couldn't win the argument.

I'm hitting the road shortly. Anyone wanna check to see if I haven't been mauled by lions, the number is 757-768-2400.

I'll have to definitely get a balancer so I can dial this thing in 100% PEACE

 

Yea nice find! That one is exactly what I was thinking of, thought it was a post here but must have been linked to.

Yea if you're having troubles with that valve I'd run on the working tank until I returned home. Means more fuel stops on one tank but slow and steady gets you there.

The timing, you can work on it some as you travel if you wish, When you stop for fuel each time bump the timing up until you get to the point you hear spark knock. Then back it down just a hair so you don't.

Have a safe but quick trip......well one fuel tank? should say a bunch of little ones!

 

I'm nowhere near Subford's bag of tricks, but I'm working on it! I linked it a couple times last month.

 

Truck ran great...for about the first 10 minutes after I left my girl's place. Here's the lowdown:

-High Pressure Fuel Pump died first. All of that dry cranking with multiple clogs overheated it I assume and it crapped out after 10 minutes of normal driving. Replaced, truck wouldn't run, no spark now as well. $91

-The rotor button (on the cap) shattered. So I lost spark. Replaced Cap and Rotor ($15).
(At this point I went to double check fuel pressure and it was normal but upon removing my tester the oring had snapped so the cheapo fuel pressure tester is no more)

-Plug wires resistances were down to about 3Kohms. Asked to ohm a set in store and they swere 36Kohms. Replaced, no spark. ($23)

-Found TDC again, rotor was pointed at number one correctly. Cranked truck up it idled like HELL, but wouldn't die until you gave it gas. Heard excess air in the air filter box. Pulled vacuum. I was way below normal. Tried to time the truck using that, but it would never go in the green, close but not there and was still running poorly.

I have an internal vacuum leak. Burnt valve(s) I'm guessing? My compression tester doesn't fit the truck, might as well pull it apart and see what the damage is. Tow bill was $381. Would've been $1K without AAA. I'm back home, got my car running and gassed up, the truck is parked.

My pride took a hit. I fixed the damn truck...and now it can do nothing but idle poorly. Don't hear any pushrod noise (bought the truck with two pushrods not seated on their rocker arms). Junkyard here I come.

 

D@mn sorry to here this! When everything I touch seems to turn to *****, I just back away from under the hood for a little while. Give myself & the truck a break. Let's hope for the best. You need to do a compression check before assuming the worst!

 

Wow that sucks, I'd agree put it aside for a while, have you had this truck long it may just be cursed.

And FWIW you went backwords in wires, 3K ohm is better then 36K ohm new or not less ohm's are better.

 

Kohm's ? My Superconductors are 40 ohm. What's a stock grade wire?

 

Usually somewhere between 500 and 1000 ohms per foot.

Superconductors? is that a brand of plug wire? I use almost exclusively the Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm wires, 50 ohms per foot, great EM protection, high quality and less $ then MSD.

Edit, duhh the MSD wires, they call them Superconductors, haven't even considered buying any in a while. Great wire, I do admit I love MSD's veriible angle boot, but my experiance says the wire itself isn't as good as the Taylors and they cost more.

 

I'd back away from the hood for a while if I wanted the truck to sit haha. I found a compression tester that fits it, so I'm about to do that now and get the numbers. I'll report back then.

Since I'm alone I'll miss the first puff reading since I gotta have the clutch down to start it. Don't feel like bypassing that right now.

 

Someone explain this to me.

Here's the results of my dry compression check. Engine cold. All plugs removed.

1. 130 psi
2. 145 psi
3. 145 psi
4. 140 psi
5. 150 psi
6. 145 psi.

Went back and retested number 1. 140 psi.
Retested number 1 again with a cap full of oil. 160 psi.

Someone explain, tell me what else to check. I have a strong feeling my IAB is bad, but could that cause this kind of vacuum problem? If you disconnect it at operating temp, nothing happens. Idle stays the same. Could it have failed shut all of a sudden? But then why would the truck choke on itself if you opened the throttle?

Okay, looking at my vacuum gauge, with the truck idling the way it was I had between 5-10 in. Hg vacuum. The best I could get it to by trying to time it was 15 in. Hg. Normal is about 21.