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That all depends how much you want to spend. The easy answer would be to replace the lifters but if you do that then you should replace the cam and push rods too. And while you are at it might as well do the timing chain also.
there is no adjustment i can make to the rocker arms to quiet it??
Most FE engines run non-adjustable rocker arms with their hydraulic cams. They are adjustable by installing .060 Longer or Shorter PUSH-RODS.
You'll need to collapse the lifter (which is no small feat with FE lifters) and measure the clearance. The install the correct push-rod whether .060 longer, Stock, or .060 shorter.
Are the lifters noisy all the time or after the engine has warmed up? What weight oil are you running? Have you taken the valve covers off to see if any sludge has built up? The FE engine is very particular about having a clean cylinder head and oil drains.
Most FE engines run non-adjustable rocker arms with their hydraulic cams. They are adjustable by installing .060 Longer or Shorter PUSH-RODS.
You'll need to collapse the lifter (which is no small feat with FE lifters) and measure the clearance. The install the correct push-rod whether .060 longer, Stock, or .060 shorter.
Are the lifters noisy all the time or after the engine has warmed up? What weight oil are you running? Have you taken the valve covers off to see if any sludge has built up? The FE engine is very particular about having a clean cylinder head and oil drains.
Josh
What would cause the noisy lifters after engine has warmed up . but not when cold?
What would cause the noisy lifters after engine has warmed up . but not when cold?
1) Wrong weight of oil. For an older, well seasoned engine 10W40 is probably the minimum. Or run Diesel 15W40. A really worn engine may even need 20W50.
2) Worn oil pump, pumps fine with think oil, but can't keep up with hot, thin oil.
Sorry for hijacking but Bullit mentioned worn oil pumps and my question didnt get answered in another thread but would replaceing the pump in a 360 give better oil psi? When mine warms up the psi gets lowish.
Might be a band-aid fix to just replace the oil pump.
If it were me and I was tight on funds and wasn't able to do a full rebuild, I would replace the oil pump and while the pan is off anyways try to replace the main and rod bearings as well. I would take into account how well the engine tested for compression and if, if any, oil smoke was present from valve guides or rings.