cdr valve problems?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Stick your finger in the CDR where it connects to the intake, and with your mouth, blow in the little vent hole on the other side (cover side).
You should feel the diaphram inside move. If it doesn't, and you feel air going right through, the diaphram is garbage, the CDR is bad.
You should feel the diaphram inside move. If it doesn't, and you feel air going right through, the diaphram is garbage, the CDR is bad.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
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Postmaster
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
Likes: 2
From: Upstate NY
okay guys I'm pretty nervous here, just tested the cdr and was hoping it failed because it would be an easy fix but it passed, I blew into the little hole and could feel the inside move but no air was passing through, so why is my truck still burning oil?? could there be soo much oil in there that its just burning out whats left? heres some info from the truck oil was last changed two years ago and 2800 miles ago I'm thinking its just rotting sludge in there havent had the chance to change it yet though I have a new oil filter on hand, also the previous owner ran the truck on home heating oil with no additives or anything of that sort? can someone please tell me it could be something else other than rings? truck only has 70,200 miles
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,234
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From: Upstate NY
took off oil fill cap and started engine no smoke coming out so it cant have bad blow by, was reading about using auto tranny fluid for additive? I have some mobil 1 syn atf in my garage from when I switched out powersteering, might put a tad bit in and see what happens, I think it must have something to do with the oil being so corroded I'm going to go pick up some delvac 1300 from walmart and put that new oil filter thats been sitting in my truck to use, hopefully it might have some effect on this nasty blue smoke
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
No Turbo ???
The places for non turbo to get oil in cylinder to burn ...
CDR.
Valve guide seals.
Head gasket.
Piston rings. (you said not much blowby, was it hot when checked)
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
The places for non turbo to get oil in cylinder to burn ...
CDR.
Valve guide seals.
Head gasket.
Piston rings. (you said not much blowby, was it hot when checked)
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Before we start a panic here, be aware that diesel engines are capable of producing blue smoke if timing is off or if an injector is leaking or perhaps popping too early. From my personal experience, I've seen my engine produce blue smoke if the timing is too advanced. Also if the idle is too low when the cold advance is activated, that can also cause some extra smoke.
Unless you are seeing real amounts of oil consumed in the engine, blue smoke does not automatically mean its coming from the engine oil. I think its VERY unlikely that your rings or even valve guides are gone on an engine that young.
Powerstroker, under what conditions are you seeing this smoke? be thorough and specific.
Unless you are seeing real amounts of oil consumed in the engine, blue smoke does not automatically mean its coming from the engine oil. I think its VERY unlikely that your rings or even valve guides are gone on an engine that young.
Powerstroker, under what conditions are you seeing this smoke? be thorough and specific.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Upstate NY
sorry guys for not giving good information checked for blow by when cold and when hot engine, smokes worst when first started which I think is normal, but continues to smoke after not as bad though, if I drive the truck for 15 miles then come back and check the exhaust outlet it is not bad, my outlet is right underneath the flatbed, its connected right off the muffler but bent 90 degrees and faces the ground, also I do not know what cold advance is, is it basically high idle in the powerstrokes? same basic thing? engine idles few hundred rpm high when first started to help warm engine? if so I think I have something similar to that on my truck, when I first start in morning rpm does not go up unless I give a little tap on the throttle then it will stay about 850 rpm give or take, I looked on the IP and see where a little rod will push out against the throttle I am guessing this is the cold advance