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cdr valve problems?

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Old May 28, 2010 | 01:52 PM
  #16  
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just picked up 3 gallons of delvac 1300 15w40 from walmart 9.50 a gallon didnt seem too bad I think the truck is 10 gallons? also have a motorcraft oil filter going to change it out
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 01:59 PM
  #17  
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the little rod is the fast idle. Theirs another thingy inside the IP that advances the timing for cold starts.
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 02:00 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by powerstroker100
just picked up 3 gallons of delvac 1300 15w40 from walmart 9.50 a gallon didnt seem too bad I think the truck is 10 gallons? also have a motorcraft oil filter going to change it out
Your truck holds 10 quarts not 10 gallons
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 02:11 PM
  #19  
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Correct about the cold high idle. Sounds like its working properly. The cold idle advanced is internal though and you can't visually inspect that from the outside. Not worth digging further in to investigate.

Sounds to me like the timing might be slightly too advanced.

The smoke is a bit of a grey/blue haze visible in direct sunlight, right?
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 02:52 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by David85
Correct about the cold high idle. Sounds like its working properly. The cold idle advanced is internal though and you can't visually inspect that from the outside. Not worth digging further in to investigate.

Sounds to me like the timing might be slightly too advanced.

The smoke is a bit of a grey/blue haze visible in direct sunlight, right?
yes david85 that is correct how hard would it be for a diy to slow down timing? also my mistake for the 10 gallon posting haaha
 
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Old May 28, 2010 | 06:55 PM
  #21  
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The injector pump is timed similar to a distributor on an older gas engine by rotating it. 3 nuts hold it to the gear cover on the top front of the engine. Loosen those and you can rotate the pump (lean the pump, if you will) to the passenger side to advance, or to the driver's side to retard the timing.

First thing to look at is right on top of the mating flange for the injector pump where it meets the gear cover of the engine. With a little cleaning you should be able to see a scribed alignment mark from factory on both parts. Make careful note of where the marks are in relation to each other before changing anything.

Adjustments can be made as small as the width of those marks - barely a millimeter. That should also give you an idea for how sensitive the timing is and thats why the initial observation is so critical to be able to restore the original setting if something goes wrong.

The back yard method for getting "satisfactory" timing is where the engine starts up cold and idles a little louder almost like a 7.3 powerstroke for a few seconds when the high idle and cold advance are still on. Louder idle means more advanced.

Once you have that basic setting, you can try to fine tune based on exhaust smoke that is visible when the truck is idling at operating temperature after a drive.
 
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Old May 29, 2010 | 12:50 AM
  #22  
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ok thanks david85, I will research more before I jump into this I would be afraid to break something on the pump
 
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Old May 29, 2010 | 01:27 AM
  #23  
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One last thing. Don't make adjustments while the engine is running. Reclock the pump, tighten it down, then start up the engine again. I just realized with my analogy of gasser distributor that some one might get the wrong idea.
 
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Old May 29, 2010 | 12:46 PM
  #24  
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hmm this doesnt seem very complicated, so basically I'm loosening a few bolts and moving the whole IP toward the driver side to slow it down? but only 1mm at a time

also an update for the oil change, it was just disgusting black sludge, I put in the delvac 15w-40 with a motorcraft filter and have only driven the truck no more than 10 miles but it seems like the truck is thanking me, idles smoother, it was so nasty though I think I may change it again in 1500 miles
 
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Old May 29, 2010 | 02:01 PM
  #25  
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Hmmm, I read the thread over a couple of times and I don't see any mention of oil consumption. You should probably drive this old girl for a while as you are analysing the situation. By the way, what is the reading on your dipstick when cold and when hot. If you use the high mark when cold you might be a little over full. Stick your finger in your exhaust and check for exceptionally oily deposit before you decide you are burning oil and look for leaks before rebuilding anything.
 
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Old May 29, 2010 | 05:35 PM
  #26  
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I dont think it is oil I think it could possibly be white smoke which would indicate fuel correct? I have no loss in coolant I think it could be timing I do not know for sure with the truck at operating temperature I pulled the air filter off and removed the oil fill plug and only a little smoke came out so I dont think I have horrible blowby
 
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Old May 29, 2010 | 10:57 PM
  #27  
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Coolant produces a 'sweet' smell in the exhaust. Does it run smooth or shudder and surge a little?
 
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Old May 29, 2010 | 11:12 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by powerstroker100
ok thanks david85, I will research more before I jump into this I would be afraid to break something on the pump
this is one of those things that you should have a shop do powerstroker.
best case scenario is you get close.worst case scenario is you have a runaway diesel and blow her to kingdom come.
seriously though,for max performance and fuel mileage,pay to have this done,or invest in the proper tool.
gone are the 1$ per gallon fuel prices.now that its over 3$ a gal,going by ear is no longer good enough.
take a little $ you just saved by installing your own fuel tank and just have a shop time your engine for you is my advice anyway.
 
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Old May 29, 2010 | 11:19 PM
  #29  
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The problem there is 90 % of the shops will time it by ear, not a lot of them have the meters for these old rigs. Learn me something, how are you going to cause a runaway by adjusting the timing.
 
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Old May 29, 2010 | 11:28 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ytlogger
Coolant produces a 'sweet' smell in the exhaust. Does it run smooth or shudder and surge a little?
truck does not shudder or surge and the exhaust smell is far from sweet, the exhaust is just really strong and makes your eyes water and nose hurt, I'm really confused I understand that this engine and the 6.0 PS are completely different but you could smell that my ps exhaust was diesel I don't even know what to call this exhaust smell, when you romp on the gas pedal it will blow out greyish/blue smoke is this something I would need to bring to the ford dealer? if not where can I find this timing tool and what is the exact name of it? also I don't think this makes a difference but my truck has a giant muffler it is not straight piped (yet)
 
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