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If you're only interested in a 50-hp increase ...then the OEM split-shot injectors are the way to go because using single-shot injectors will increase the wear rate of the top compression rings ...and this is true even if you don't increase the HP and just switch to single-shot injectors at the same fuel flow to get improved MPG! I'll be posting some discussions of this effect and eventually a detailed computer simulation to support this claim!
Funny how the OBS 7.3L engines last just as long as the Superduty 7.3L engines.
C
EDIT: I'm curious how Gene will propose how to get 50 extra ponies out of OEM sticks.
I think he means 50hp splits. They do exist.
Problem is they are some of the most oil-hungry injectors out there.
So I wonder how he proposes a PSD would last longer under injectors that eat so much oil that they lower ICP well below 2000 psi (unless you have big oil), and cause much more smoke and higher EGT's than you can possibly imagine?
Okay, well to me "OEM" means unmodified. I know bigger splits exist, but I like Curtis said, I wouldn't want to invest in the oil system required to run them for just 50hp. You could get hybrids capable of 500-600rwhp for that. Of course you couldn't use them without block mods. Or could you?
Izzy i have updated my turbo to the the late model turbo with a 1.0 exhaust housing and bellowed up-pipes. How far can i push this turbo? and would a ats intake housing benefit me in any way?
You'll be able to run a little more fueling with the 1.0 housing, like the Stage 1s. I'm still running my van turbo with 235cc hybrids, but I'm pushing the hell out of it. If you don't have a WW, the ported housing will help -- I get no surge with the late wheel as hard as I'm pushing mine right now.
I do have the WW, just thought the stock whell with the ats housing might help with a little more flow. Also what kind of boost numbers will the stock turbo handle? I can hit 27 with the set-up i got right now when pulling.
You should be able to get to 30ish with the stage 1s, maybe a little more. And that is max... I'm getting 35 with my van turbo, which is probably a little high. LOL
I just got my stage 1's from Clay. What kind of supporting mods do I need to have for them to be effective ??? My sig has most of my mods listed !
I think you've got them all covered!! With tuning dialed in with your setup, you should be getting close to 400. I'd say 375 rwhp isn't out of line.
Originally Posted by Pocket
Funny how the OBS 7.3L engines last just as long as the Superduty 7.3L engines.
Oh, and the OBS 7.3L's run single shot injectors.
I was thinking the same thing Curtis!
Originally Posted by cjfarm11
Izzy i have updated my turbo to the the late model turbo with a 1.0 exhaust housing and bellowed up-pipes. How far can i push this turbo? and would a ats intake housing benefit me in any way?
Curtsey - I never did get down there for you to take a ride in my 02 when I had it modded did I? Dang I should have cause it would have given you a really good idea on power. I had stage 2's with a van turbo (non wastegated 1.15 exhaust housing) w/ ported compressor housing, stock oil, reg return fuel, map regulator, etc. It would flat pull! I would hit 38psi easily with it and the turbo held up really well. But it wasn't quite enough air for the fuel those injectors put out - just like Joe's (Izzy) situation. It's a great setup but it makes you want a bigger turbo just so you can see what the injectors can do!
Now my old truck (dad's current one) that I have back up here to work on this spring is a '95 with 292K on it. Still the original stock turbo and 15* hpop, stock fuel system. It's got stage 1's, exhaust, intake, aftermarket intercooler, and a Diesel Power (Bill's original) chip. It's at this setup for approx. 150K miles. Even with the big 35" tires, it can still easily break them loose! The tunes are generic and almost 6 years old. It's pulled ALOT of heavy loads with this setup thru the mountains of the Western US and has done really well. If you get up to this area within the next few months you're sure welcome to drive it and get the feel for stage 1's. It's in that 350 to 375rwhp range.
This spring when I tear into it, it's getting converted to the SD turbo setup and will have my old van turbo. Injectors are getting reworked to stage 2's, converting to an electric fuel system (like the SD) w/ reg return, the Hpop is going to be a Terminator modded 17*, and new UPDATED tunes from Cale at BTS. It'll be well over 400hp at that point!If you can wait till about June or so, you can get behind the wheel of it then too to feel what 2's will do for you!
You should be able to get to 30ish with the stage 1s, maybe a little more. And that is max... I'm getting 35 with my van turbo, which is probably a little high. LOL
The van turbos can hold alittle more than most think. 35 isn't bad at all for the van turbo.
I would say 30ish is getting close on a bone stock turbo, but with a 1.0 housing, it improves the drive pressures, allowing it to handle more boost. In my opinion, 30-35 psi on your setup Curtsey and you'll be ok.
Beans also sells Casserly injectors but under their own name.
i know, ryan built the injectors at beans pretty much since i can remember then he opened up his shop, full force diesel. i just don't like dealin with the middle man and beans isn't really a middle man for ryan. and swamps has good stuff too. ahh how i miss middle tn.
The only reason I chimed in here was to alert someone "before the fact" about the tradeoffs involved with switching to single-shot injectors. Here are two quotes from a paper I'll be discussing in detail on my "wear and tear" thread that reports measurements of piston ring and cylinder liner wear ...and in the following TRR means... Top Ring Reversal.
..."TRR is the most critical part of the engine cycle because piston speeds are low and cylinder pressures and temperatures are high which results in boundary lubricated conditions. As a consequence the majority of the wear experienced by the ring and liner occurs at this location."...
..."To avoid scuffing of the ring and liner typical TRR temperatures in diesel engines are kept near 200*C by circulating coolant through the cylinder head. Tests conducted at 260*C have shown that the rings and liners experience wear at least 100 times greater than at conventional TRR temperatures."...
I'll show on my thread that using single-shot injectors versus the OEM split-shot injectors will substantially increase the cylinder pressures and temperatures in the critical region of TRR and this will increase the wear rate of the rings and cylinder walls!
The van turbos can hold alittle more than most think. 35 isn't bad at all for the van turbo.
I would say 30ish is getting close on a bone stock turbo, but with a 1.0 housing, it improves the drive pressures, allowing it to handle more boost. In my opinion, 30-35 psi on your setup Curtsey and you'll be ok.
I forgot you were making ~425ish on your stage 2s/van turbo combo, Ryan! What else did you do? I can't remember.