How fast can you go comfortably with 4.88 gears? My truck has 4.10 gears and it picks up a vibration and seems unhappy at 70. It runs 68 or 69 fine though.

 

It seems that you have personally inspected or replaced every major component in your entire drive train. The one exception I note are the front hubs.

You now have virtually a new custom-built truck. It should last you a lifetime, no matter how hard you work it. Money and time well-spent.

An enviable place to be!

Pop

 

Hey Brandon. I have 4:10 gears also and I can cruise at 75-80 with no vibration. My RPMs are way up there and the fuel gauge goes down fast, but thats about it.

 

I've had mine to about 85. But it doesn't seem happy over 70. Fuel milage suffers also.

 

That's what I'm beginning to think.


I hit the rev limiter at 83-84 mph.
If I want to go faster than that, I have to turn up the chip to the high HP tunes where there is no rev limiter, but I don't want to spin the engine that fast.
I want this thing to last so I'll never actually do that.

Thanks, Pop.

 

Do you have a CCV mod straight to the atmosphere like you had before? Have someone follow you an see what's coming out of your CCV hose. Here's how Ford measures the blowby to see if it's excessive due to worn out rings/cylinder walls...



Since you've got a new engine now is the perfect time to install a real-time crankcase pressure gauge by attaching a small hose to the oil filler tube fitting shown here...



...and attaching the other end of that small hose to the 10" H2O full scale pressure gauge shown at the left here...



...and by collecting baseline crankcase pressure data when your engine is new ...you'll be able to track the wear-in rate of the piston skirts/rings and cylinder walls ...and after the crankcase pressure stops decreasing when a given test load is applied ...like towing up your favorite hill ...you'll know the wear-in is complete ...and you'll also know the value of crankcase pressure to use as a "wear standard" to compare with crankcase pressure readings at 25K, 50K, 75K, etc... which is data I'd like to see posted because I can use it for my wear model!

 

Do you need both of those gauges ?????? Where can you get one ?????? If I can find out where to get them I will rig one up on my new motor ! I even have a spare oil filler neck that I can put a fitting in !

 

Will the psi be the same on both sides with the ccv valve open to the atmosphere?

 

I think they want you to plug it off for doing the test Rick ! Thats kind of what I got out of that anyways !

 

Well, in that case, do the test out your CCV hose not to bugger up your fill tube, correct??

 

I don't think you would want to drive around with the ccv pluged.

 

Go to the picture with all the gauges set up by the spider !!!!!!! Right where it say crank case pressure test !!! READ ! Where it says NOTE: ??????

http://ernesteugene.com/FTE3/Ford_CCV_Test.jpg

 

No ...you only need the small gauge which costs $50 ...and here's the link to where I bought my gauges...

Here's the exact info on my gauges, the first is for CC pressure and the second for CFM.


Phone (609) 259-8900 Fax (609) 259-3575 Internet:McMaster-Carr

E-mail nj.sales@mcmaster.com

4026K251 Low-Pressure Diaphragm Gauge 1.5% Accuracy, 1/4" NPT Center Back, 0-10" of H2O (Same as 4026K5) $49.65 $49.65 Monday morning

4021K47 Low-Pressure Differential Gauge +/-2% Accuracy, 1/8" NPT Fem, -15 to 15" of Water (Same as 4021K51) $75.55 $75.55 Monday morning




No and the EGT isn't the same on both banks either ...but using a fitting on the bank opposite the doghouse gives the maximum crankcase pressure ...and that's what you want to monitor as you place various loads on the engine!

If your engine is "healthy" ...and its blowby is "nominal" ...and you've got a 10' long 7/16" CCV hose with no sharp bends running straight to the atmosphere ...then you should see a crankcase pressure of about 2" H2O under full load with a 40 tow DP chip!

The gauge reading will bounce around some ...which is why I cut off the tip from a plastic mouth piece from a "water pik" and inserted that into the small hose to act as a damper!

Based on information from Racor and other sources ...I'd say that seeing more than 4" H2O under full load indicates some general wear on all the piston skirts/rings and/or cylinder walls ...or perhaps that a single piston has overheated due to an over fueling injector ...or that some valve seats have burned ...or that the turbo bearing is leaking boost pressure or leaking exhaust pressure into the crankcase!

I think a real-time crankcase pressure gauge is very useful for monitoring the overall health status of a turbo-diesel engine!


For the Ford test the CCV is stock ...and the CCV hose is plugged off completely at the doghouse ...and a special oil cap is used which contains a "calibrated restriction" fitting ...and the pressure downstream of the "calibrated restriction" is read when the engine is revved to the limiter in neutral and held there until the pressure reading stabilizes ...and if that reading is more than 4"H20 the dealer will say the engine is worn-out ...and that the expense of a compression test to determine how worn-out it is isn't justified!

 

Hey Russ, from your comments above, didn't seem like you knew either, was just making a comment, you can't run it down the road like that like Rick said, I was TALKING ABOUT AT IDLE, LIGHTEN UP. Instead of buggering up your tube, why not check it thru your CCV hose, the cap plugs the other side so why not there....Edited

 

Ease up there Mike !!!!! I did NOT know myself, That is why I put the ???? after what I had said ! It was a question... that is all ! Thats the bad thing about computers, they dont show emotions or convey the correct thing sometime !

All I was doing is pointing out what I read incase you guys didn't see that part ! Thats all dude ! sorry if you took it the wrong way !