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I have a 2006 SCREW Lariat. I'm hearing a rumble/growl sound from inside the dashboard which seems to be related to the climate control system. The noise is very noticable, cyclic, and lasts about 3-5 seconds each time. It sounds like it is a flap w/i the climate control system ducting (or a motor controling a flap)?
The climate control system is seems to be working fine (except for this noise).
I usually leave the climate control system on "AUTO" and set the temp to be 68-degrees.
Does anyone know what is causing this, or what this problem is?
Is it easy to repair?
i do not know the answer but I also have the same noise. only when i first start the engine.
but ive only owned the truck a couple weeks.
it made sense to me that it was the vents "reseting" from the last time I drove. since when you use auto the climate control changes the fan speed and ducts while in Auto.
for the last few days I left it in fan speed 3 with the defrost/floor button pressed and i havnt heard the noise, im pretty sure on a cold start if I hit auto ill hear all teh motors grumble and adjusting... but thats just the new ford owners theory
Some 2005-2008 F-150 (excludes Heritage) and 2006-2008 Lincoln Mark LT vehicles built after 11/29/2005 may exhibit a grinding noise from the climate control system while changing air distribution modes. ACTION:
Perform the following Service Procedure to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.
<TABLE border=1 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 itxtvisited="1"><TBODY itxtvisited="1"><TR itxtvisited="1"><TH align=middle itxtvisited="1">OPERATION</TH><TH align=middle itxtvisited="1">DESCRIPTION</TH><TH align=middle itxtvisited="1">TIME</TH></TR><TR itxtvisited="1"><TD class=NOBOTTOMBORDER align=left itxtvisited="1">080809A</TD><TD class=NOBOTTOMBORDER align=left itxtvisited="1">2005-2008 F-150, 2006-2008 Mark LT: Remove Distribution Mode Door Cam and Replace Cam Lubricant.</TD><TD class=NOBOTTOMBORDER align=left itxtvisited="1">0.4 Hr.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> DEALER CODING
It is the mode door binding against the casing. I'll be if you turn the Climate control to manual and cycle between floor, vent and def that it will make the sound. What happens is the foam that is glued to the doors falls off and becomes lodged between the door and the casing. When the mode changes from floor to vent to def the door binds against the foam. It will eventually get so bad as the door will become stuck in one position. To repair this you must remove the dash to gain access to the doors through the top of the heater casing and remove the dislodged foam. I've done many of these, all of which I just remove the foam that fell off and reassemble the dash. Never notice the difference with a piece of foam missing.
You can find the actuator that drives the door under the driver side of the dash above the gas pedal. remove the actuator and mounting plate alone with the white guide piece(do not activate the climate control when removing the motor- leave the key off through this entire process). once you have access to the door levers move both levers back and forth, they should move freely at full travel. any binding or lack of full back and forth tracel is a sign that the foam has fallen off. Good luck!!
I've seen that tsb, but never actually had one that exhibited that concern. I've always had the concern I posted above, but who's to say I'm right. Look into both and let us know what you find...
I'll pretty much be leaving it on Floor/Def for the life of the truck. I dont think Ive changed the settings on my Frontier since i've bought it 11 years ago.. well maybe once or twice but i pretty much leave it alone...
Question (or favor)...
Can you give me a little better feel for the level-of-effort involved in removing the dash?
"To repair this you must remove the dash to gain access to the doors through the top of the heater casing and remove the dislodged foam."
I've removed the center trims before to install an IPOD module as well as other parts of the dash to install a couple of switches. It seems that the dash is mostly one huge single piece with a number of bezels and covers.
The TSB mentioned says that it is a .4 hours. I'm guessing this is about 25 or 30 minutes (for the repair?) but honestly I'm not sure what this means.
Which piece(s) of the dash need to come off to get access to the heater casing?
Actually, the TSB I pointed out above and the issue Wilber suggested are separate parts and unrelated. If you're getting a flap sound, go with his suggestion.
If it's more of a growl coming from the top of the dash then the TSB might be the issue. The TSB suggests .4hrs, yes, that's 20 to 30 minutes. It can be accessed from underneath the left hand side of the instrument panel, evidently w/o taking the dash apart.
The TSB above conveniently left out this picture which shows what part you're looking to remove and lube.
Got the same sound on my 07, not very loud though & only noticed it occasionally usually if I turn on the ignition & don't start the engine immediately. I thought it was just the climate control redirecting the airflow but struggling with insufficient vacuum as the motor isn't running. I guess it is now something else to keep an eye on!
I can get the dash out, foam removed and dash back in under 3.5 hours. first timer's are going to need 5+. There is a handful of wiring connectors on driver/passenger sides plus some passenger side grounds. Disconnect steering column shaft, remove center support mounts under radio to floor, 9 13m bolts holding the dash to the fire wall and a few select trim panels including the trim panels going up along the windows. The whole dash lifts out with the help of a 2nd person. You can then reach down into the heater case and remove the foam, then just reverse the removal procedure. I might have left out a few cable but you'll see what is connected between the firewall and the dash and what needs to be removed. I believe the trans shift cable and e-brake cables need to be removed under the dash as well.
If you have a center console shift it's a tad more difficult, you need to remove the entire center console to get the dash out as well....
The ENTIRE dash will seperate from the firewall. You'll see how it works if you decide to attempt this. It's going to look very weird the first time you see it, haha. YOu can leave the steering wheel(use a bungy cord or rope to tie the steering wheel to a dash support so the wheel doesn't turn and hurt the clock spring) and radio in the dash(some manuals state to remove these but I have found you can leave them in.
This thread took in days to find! I found everything under the sun to could possibly make a noise. I almost gave up but sure glad I didn't. I videoed the noise and the movement.
Now who wants to help me fix it in or around STL mo.?
I've never taken the dash out of a vehicle and I read that it could take about 5-7 hours to do.
Also: Just recently I have notice a slight coolant smell when the heat (good heat) first comes on and then fades away. Also slightly sticky driver floor under floor mat. I am assuming that my heater core is going bad... is that a correct assumption?
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