SeaFoam - What do you think? - PNW Riders


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SeaFoam...Yay or Ney? - Page 2 - Ford Diesel Power Forums

 

Tell me why. Give me good data as to why it is bad.

 

With the change over to a true syn oil. The cleanup is secondary.
The reason is not from the additives (detergents) in the oil.
The syn oil creeps deeper into the porous metal's.

.02
Bill

 

The first one has to do with carburator components.
Which we do not have.
Fuel is just as caustic on carburated components. And that is talking about adding it to your fuel, not the crank case.

And the second one clearly states for in the crank case.
or fuel systems, for diesl or gas engines.
I ran it for 6k miles in my Gas truck and drained out honey brown oil.

And on all of that, your mix ratio is a big deal as well. I was mixing 1 can to 6 qt's in the gasser, I mixed a half a can into the almost 4 gallons we run.

As for being bad on carburated components, it would have to be a really heavy mix 50/50 or more to actually damage those components for the brief moment it touches them, except while sitting in the bowl.
Now. 1 can to 18 gals is def not 50/50 mix.



The Red Bean Tongue of fire Comes in for the win.

 

I use sea foam in my gas stuff. I put it in my 66 mustang 332 stroker motor every fall before it gets put away for the winter, and it always starts right up when ever I get a sunny day during the winter. I use it in all my chain saws and my lawn mower too. Seems to always run a little better and start easier after I run that stuff threw them. Maybe its just because a full tank was run threw the motor, but I like to think its the sea foam.

I personally think if you keep up on your maintenance you wont need the stuff. Its not a fix for poor maintenance. I change oil every 4k, 3k if I have been working the snot out of it. I dont like to see high mileage, 6-10k, intervals even with synthetic. Sure the oil may be in good shape still, but not the impurities that are floating in it.

 

YouTube - psd cold start


Okay.
Lubriguard 15w40 with 2.5-3k miles (not sure!! sue me)
And a half a can of seafoam. (in the crank case)
I am only starting on 6 GP's as well. I have a burnt pin.

 

Reason I say no on the seafoam that long, is the manufacture says not to... not to mention that it has a solvent in it, which washes away lubicity (SP) in certain instances...


Do you have a Stock Downpipe and exhaust still William?

 

3 inch DP and a 3 1/2 inch exhaust. Came on the truck, save me a lot of hastle.
No way i'd get 30 PSI with stock DP.

 

I make 26 pounds with stock downpipe and stock injectors and stock tunes with just a ICP mod..... Just saying.

 

why are we so worried about "cleaning" the internals of the engine? I run rottella in everything the PSD and the Pete. Big Cats, Detroit, and Cummins go a million miles and no one ever runs stuff through them to clean them out. I have seen the insides of 414-466 IH motors that had who knows what oil in them. they all looked fine.

The only reason I see going to Synthetic is for the Extended drain intervals. way back when I had Synth in the PSD I noticed it did start better when it was below 0º but I also had alot of bad GP's. Just this morning @ 6:45 I started mine, local temp at the time was a balmy -9º confirmed by the bank across the road, it was not plugged in, I shut it off @ 21:30 the nite before. with 4 new GP's and who knows how many other working ones it fired right up, yea it smoked but it was so friggen cold it smoked when I got home an hour later too, wich was supposedly -14º by then.

Also, to make this longer, what are the rules for disposing of Synthetic oil? can you mix it in with normal Dino oil at the drop sites? Synthetic wont burn like regualar used Dino.

Diesel Rod

 

ok, i have done alot more research today, everythign i can find from the oil companies is that they put the exact same additives in the synthetic oil as the dino oil and the same exact amounts. the only difference is the molecular structure of the oil itself. that is the key to the benefits of synthetic- the dino molecules are all different sizes and the synthetics are identical and smaller thus giving it better lube properties. this is also why you discover oil leaks when changing to synthetic. the smaller molecules get through potential leaks that dino oil cant.

that being said i still cant beleive that synthetic oil has better detergent qualities then dino, if it was so good then the epa would already have it mandated as the only oil legal for use in cars and trucks. lol

madvan, i dont run my oil til it starts to break down, at least not on purpose. when i change the oil in my truck it never changes how it runs. there are only 2 times that i can recall that i was really overdue and could tell a difference, that was idle quality and wot performance. the motorcraft oil holds up extremly well to hard abuse and that is my main reason for using it over delvac and rotella.

also, in my 6k interval i have added no additional oil to the truck, at time of change it was just barely below the full mark and that is because i have a minor leak at the oil pan above the starter, i burn no oil. on my normal 3-4k changes it is always on the full mark

 

Good info coon.
I knew about the better structure, but as far as I was aware, it had diff detergents in it.

I guess it also depends on the oil brand.
Some might have more of others. the base detergents should be in there no matter what. Perhaps that's the info you found?

 

well my info is not gold, its just my research. as with any dino oil, the base content is virtually the same, its the additives that each company that makes it their own blend, so i am sure that each synthetic oil differs from the next.