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synthetic vs conventional testing

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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 07:47 PM
  #31  
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i dont care for royal purple either, and i didnt liek the delo 400 in my truck, nor the castrol. its been motorcraft, mobil delvac and shell rotella- in that order
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 07:48 PM
  #32  
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have any of you guys tried Lucus
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 07:49 PM
  #33  
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tried thier tranny additive when my torqueflite was on its last leg. does that count?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 07:57 PM
  #34  
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umm idk.just wondering .the guys at work use it.I havent tried it yet and dont no if i want to .$32.00 for a gallon ouch.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 08:05 PM
  #35  
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thought this thread was kind of interesting


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...la-oil-t6.html
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 08:24 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT
i like the fact that the synethic oil that I have in the truck does not get as black as quick,
Thats not a good thing. Oil is supposed to trap the carbon that gets into the crankcase, thus turning it black. if your oil isnt getting black then the carbon is going somewhere, hopefully your filter is catching it. hench the reason for extra bypass filters when going with extended drain intervals. need to keep the nasties out of the oil.

I did the Synth thing WAY back at 200K and within 10K i had so many oil leaks I switched back to convetional. I am pretty sure the Synthetic did its job at "cleaning" and took out abunch of carbon in places that now leak. small price to pay I guess. the cold starts were nice but mine gets plugged in when its below 20º so the starts aren't all that bad. it turned 321K today with six original injectors AND O-Rings on them. I just can't see paying that much for oil. oil is oil.

Diesel Rod
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 10:04 PM
  #37  
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IMO oil is not oil. i like the royal purple, but if i put it into my PSD i know it would all leak out so i don't.

Joe, that start sounded much better to me. do it in the morning time to judge smoke though. when shining a light at night you will see more smoke. My truck at night time completely warmed up will mist out smoke a little bit at idle when under a light or shining with a flashlight. in the day time it has absolutely NO visible smoke at all when fully warmed up at idle. just wait til daylight to make that judgement. Oh yeah and i definitely didn't expect the rain flaps!!! the ticking would annoy me after awhile and your injectors sound quite healthy for your mileage. much better than mine were.. haha

Matt, fix your stack!!! haha. your cold start sounded much better as well with the synthetic. truck sounds good with the stacks.

Joe and Matt, why are y'all revving up with a cold a$$ engine? be careful when doing that b/c as i'm sure coon knows at colder oil temps the higher the timing. the more you rev with the timing sitting up there the worse you are on the engine. since y'all aren't tuned i don't think it matters near as much about the timing, but still.. LoL. Just keep in mind when y'all get custom tunes that some tuners pull the timing up quite a bit for the power, but in the colder oil temps some have found close to 60* of timing in some truck which in turn possibly caused catastrophic failures(cracked blocks). just don't wanna see a post later reading-- water in oil, checked everything, where else is this coming from?! haha. i don't mean to preach on that though. sorry for rambling.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 02:03 AM
  #38  
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Thanks for the comparison shots Joe. I'm not sure if I saw any difference between the two at those temperatures though. I really considered doing the synthetic oil, but I couldn't see spending the money. The way this winter is going I still may put 10W30 in mine.

My truck does pretty good down to 0 F with the JD 15W40 Plus 50, but once it goes negative you better have a plug in or it idles for most of the night. Glad it's not my daily driver during the winter.

In any case guys.. I'd like to see what syn does on starting at 0 F or below... Vidoes anyone? Anyone? Lol.

Nice vids guys.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 06:50 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by c00nhunterjoe
hmmm, you are worrying me with the poor lab results on synthetic
Originally Posted by c00nhunterjoe
what do you think about the poor lab results on it vs conventional? and on that note i had a friend that switched to synthetic oil in his race car and he dropped 15 psi oil pressure just by chagning the oil, he switched right back to his old conventional oil and the pressure returned right away......... i figured it was a fluke thing but now seeing another post about issues i am worried. dont need to be rebuilding my engine anytime soon.
Originally Posted by c00nhunterjoe
well perhaps he just got a bad batch of oil, thats possible wiht any manufacturer
Switching from DINO to Snyth will be rough at first. If you make the plunge completely you will be good from my understanding, but you want to do a 5k oil change after the first switch, then you should be able to do the 7500-10k change. The left over Dino Give's you stuff like in the following here.

Originally Posted by 84-250
RTS @ 5000 miles
iron:15ppm, lead:8ppm
RTS@7500 miles
iron:29ppm, lead: 9ppm

Motorcraft @5000 miles
iron:17ppm, lead:5ppm

Universal averages
iron:17ppm, lead:4ppm

There is 25k miles between the last RTS UOA and the motorcraft UOA. In less than a month ill have the 7500 miles motorcraft UOA. All three UOA were done in the winter time. With RTS costing twice as much as the dino 15/40 my UOAs dont show it doing anything better than a dino oil would.
See, at 5k your PPM's were your averages. At 7500, which most suggest not even going too, you increased.
With a bypass filter, perhaps your PPM would stay average.

Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT
All oils can be hit or miss....

but i personally see oil testing as a waste of money. Just save the money from the testing and put it towards a filter change mid way, or for some of an oil change.

Older higermileage engines will have worse results. The bearings are starting to wear, but the difference between wearing alot and a little is alot. a little bit of mineral deposits can be from the auto parts store where a guy touched your oil filter where it screws on seeing if its the right one.
Oil testing is essential to a Diesels longevity. Gas engines can run under horible conditions, and so can our trucks, but with HEUI injectors, we have to pay more attention to our oil, and how it effects the main power source of our plants. If we had diff injectors. I would ignore the oil tests more often.

Originally Posted by 84-250
Just my observation guys. For double the price i dont think syn is worth it.
Sometimes I feel that way as well.
Originally Posted by 95_Dually
I will really look into this for myself. I have always used Delo 400. Are there any tests using the Royal Purple?
Delo sucks IMO. To cheep.
Originally Posted by c00nhunterjoe
i dont care for royal purple either, and i didnt liek the delo 400 in my truck, nor the castrol. its been motorcraft, mobil delvac and shell rotella- in that order
RP has problems with HEUI systems from my grape vine.
Originally Posted by crash1
have any of you guys tried Lucus
Lucas sucks.
Originally Posted by 444dieselrod
Thats not a good thing. Oil is supposed to trap the carbon that gets into the crankcase, thus turning it black. if your oil isnt getting black then the carbon is going somewhere, hopefully your filter is catching it. hench the reason for extra bypass filters when going with extended drain intervals. need to keep the nasties out of the oil.

I did the Synth thing WAY back at 200K and within 10K i had so many oil leaks I switched back to convetional. I am pretty sure the Synthetic did its job at "cleaning" and took out abunch of carbon in places that now leak. small price to pay I guess. the cold starts were nice but mine gets plugged in when its below 20º so the starts aren't all that bad. it turned 321K today with six original injectors AND O-Rings on them. I just can't see paying that much for oil. oil is oil.

Diesel Rod
Snyth will tell you where your problems the DINO has been hiding from you.

Originally Posted by FARM69
Thanks for the comparison shots Joe. I'm not sure if I saw any difference between the two at those temperatures though. I really considered doing the synthetic oil, but I couldn't see spending the money. The way this winter is going I still may put 10W30 in mine.

My truck does pretty good down to 0 F with the JD 15W40 Plus 50, but once it goes negative you better have a plug in or it idles for most of the night. Glad it's not my daily driver during the winter.

In any case guys.. I'd like to see what syn does on starting at 0 F or below... Vidoes anyone? Anyone? Lol.

Nice vids guys.
I'll get some soon. My truck starts so hard, but only 6 gp's too.

Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
IMO oil is not oil. i like the royal purple, but if i put it into my PSD i know it would all leak out so i don't.

Joe, that start sounded much better to me. do it in the morning time to judge smoke though. when shining a light at night you will see more smoke. My truck at night time completely warmed up will mist out smoke a little bit at idle when under a light or shining with a flashlight. in the day time it has absolutely NO visible smoke at all when fully warmed up at idle. just wait til daylight to make that judgement. Oh yeah and i definitely didn't expect the rain flaps!!! the ticking would annoy me after awhile and your injectors sound quite healthy for your mileage. much better than mine were.. haha

Matt, fix your stack!!! haha. your cold start sounded much better as well with the synthetic. truck sounds good with the stacks.

Joe and Matt, why are y'all revving up with a cold a$$ engine? be careful when doing that b/c as i'm sure coon knows at colder oil temps the higher the timing. the more you rev with the timing sitting up there the worse you are on the engine. since y'all aren't tuned i don't think it matters near as much about the timing, but still.. LoL. Just keep in mind when y'all get custom tunes that some tuners pull the timing up quite a bit for the power, but in the colder oil temps some have found close to 60* of timing in some truck which in turn possibly caused catastrophic failures(cracked blocks). just don't wanna see a post later reading-- water in oil, checked everything, where else is this coming from?! haha. i don't mean to preach on that though. sorry for rambling.
The Snyth should start smoother.
Gotta cut this short. I hate half *** responces. But gotta go. =\
 
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 07:09 AM
  #40  
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William, my truck has had Delo in it the last 302k miles. i feel its pretty good and its better than LUBRIGUARD.... haha. RP does good in these trucks. we found 13hp on one of our guys trucks by switching from dino to RP synthetic. madvan doesn't think so, but thats what the dyno showed us and cody runs it in his trucks and i will as well after i pull the engine out. just my thoughts though.

my truck probably wouldn't start at 0*. its spent too long in Tx so it doesn't know what 0* is all about and it would probably just be like umm no i'm not going out in this cold a$$ chit.. haha
 
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 10:22 AM
  #41  
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FWIW Joe, I thought your very first post with the video looked great. I see no reason to pay double for synthetic and deal with leak potential when it looks to me like your truck runs great as is. Mine sits for a month or more at a time and smokes a ton till I drive it a few blocks.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 12:40 PM
  #42  
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Most of the bad things I heard with rp was with 6.0s. I've not heard on the 7.3's. I'm not against rp at all though. Its good stuff. Id rather got amsoil ove rp however.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 01:03 PM
  #43  
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i saw years ago on a tv show called trucks the guy took a late 90's 4x4 dodge can't remember if it was a 318 or a 360 but he put royal purple oil trans fluid x-case fluid and axle fluid in it and gained 24 ft. lbs of torque and something like 13 horsepower and said it was quieter. the truck was on a 4x4 chasis dyno with the 4x4 engaged if i remember right
 
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 01:39 PM
  #44  
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Interesting stuff... I've been thinking about 5w40. Can you still run 5W40 in the summer time?
 
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 02:30 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by arkredneck
i saw years ago on a tv show called trucks the guy took a late 90's 4x4 dodge can't remember if it was a 318 or a 360 but he put royal purple oil trans fluid x-case fluid and axle fluid in it and gained 24 ft. lbs of torque and something like 13 horsepower and said it was quieter. the truck was on a 4x4 chasis dyno with the 4x4 engaged if i remember right
Probably was stacey david.
He does a show called Gearz now. Its really good.

Spike screwed up with all of their cast over there, most everyone has left except the guy from extreme 4x4.

Stacey has his own show, and lue santiago does his own thing now as well.
These guys were both awesome, and spike screwed it up.
Idiots on muscle car were driving Lue's car, they didn't even have a clue the work he put into that car. Idiots.

64 Skylark Ragtop - Page 2 - Lateral-g Forums

Here is a link to one of Lue's projects.
And you can check out Gears on ESPN2 anytime.
He took all his project trucks from the show "trucks" with him.
Most of the project trucks on shows are just demolished after they are done. Stacey keeps all of his.
So, if you remember copperhead, the sweet chevy he built, he's still got it.


Oh sorry, we were talking about snyth oils.
So much easier to type on a real keyboard instead of that damn phone keyboard.

Anyways.
Royal purple is good stuff, so is a bunch of the other snyths.

The whole reason about not going back is the mixing thing.
You shouldn't mix your own from my understandings, they wont ever blend right.
So you get inconsistencies in your oils from leftovers.
So, if you want it all out. you'll have to flood the block with kerosene. and i'm soooo not going to do that.
if you want snyth in, do a cheep synth flush with something you can get easy, and if you wanna switch back to dino, use a cheep dino and only run 2k miles or so.
Will help the drain out.

AMSoil's cleaner i think helps get rid of Old Dino oil. Not sure on that one though.

Heartburn is kicking my *** today.
 
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