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Once I get done with the new mods listed at the end of my sig I'm putting mobil 5w40 in. I've had great luck with mobil in other vehicles I run so I thought I'd try it. I ran rotella 15w40 before. We'll see how I like it. 26 bucks a gallon it better be good or I'm switching back.
Once I get done with the new mods listed at the end of my sig I'm putting mobil 5w40 in. I've had great luck with mobil in other vehicles I run so I thought I'd try it. I ran rotella 15w40 before. We'll see how I like it. 26 bucks a gallon it better be good or I'm switching back.
kinda my thoughts exactly. i am not keen on over 100 dollar oil changes, so if i dont see a noticable change in the truck then i am switching right back.
what do you think about the poor lab results on it vs conventional? and on that note i had a friend that switched to synthetic oil in his race car and he dropped 15 psi oil pressure just by chagning the oil, he switched right back to his old conventional oil and the pressure returned right away......... i figured it was a fluke thing but now seeing another post about issues i am worried. dont need to be rebuilding my engine anytime soon.
what do you think about the poor lab results on it vs conventional? and on that note i had a friend that switched to synthetic oil in his race car and he dropped 15 psi oil pressure just by chagning the oil, he switched right back to his old conventional oil and the pressure returned right away......... i figured it was a fluke thing but now seeing another post about issues i am worried. dont need to be rebuilding my engine anytime soon.
im not concerned about the oil testing... Just change the filter twice... I have been known to do that on my race car... ever 15-20 passes I will change the filter, but wont change the oil all season unless I tear it down, or want something to do in the garage (the car isnt broken yet, haha)
I figure the oil testing is a good thing to have yes, but i like the fact that the synethic oil that I have in the truck does not get as black as quick, starts faster, runs much smoother, and seems to have more response. If that knocks 5000 miles off the life of my engine fine so be it, but thats about all it would knock off an engine. Bearings DONOT wear that fast, unless its built without bore gauges and not built correctly (factory motors are built correctly typically, and would show if they were not within 50K miles)
RTS @ 5000 miles
iron:15ppm, lead:8ppm
RTS@7500 miles
iron:29ppm, lead: 9ppm
Motorcraft @5000 miles
iron:17ppm, lead:5ppm
Universal averages
iron:17ppm, lead:4ppm
There is 25k miles between the last RTS UOA and the motorcraft UOA. In less than a month ill have the 7500 miles motorcraft UOA. All three UOA were done in the winter time. With RTS costing twice as much as the dino 15/40 my UOAs dont show it doing anything better than a dino oil would.
well, its currently 24 here at the house, i am going to go run out and start the truck, i will try and position the cars with their headlights on my truck for smoke shots. lets see what happens, its had a 6 hour cold soak so far.
but i personally see oil testing as a waste of money. Just save the money from the testing and put it towards a filter change mid way, or for some of an oil change.
Older higermileage engines will have worse results. The bearings are starting to wear, but the difference between wearing alot and a little is alot. a little bit of mineral deposits can be from the auto parts store where a guy touched your oil filter where it screws on seeing if its the right one.
but i personally see oil testing as a waste of money. Just save the money from the testing and put it towards a filter change mid way, or for some of an oil change.
Older higermileage engines will have worse results. The bearings are starting to wear, but the difference between wearing alot and a little is alot. a little bit of mineral deposits can be from the auto parts store where a guy touched your oil filter where it screws on seeing if its the right one.
i agree. oil analysis is a waste of money in my opinion. when you are dealing with parts per million theres so many factors that can change your results that are not engine wear reltaed. i dont see how synthetic, which is more slippery, could possibly wear out the engine quicker. i use motorcraft dino in the warmer months and rotella syn in the winter. it is definately a noticable difference on how the truck starts and when im out in the woods snowmobiling and its -10 i know it will start with rotella without being plugged in. for me peace of mind is worth the extra money for a couple oil changes
well i realize its not a full cold soak but if anything the truck seems to have more white smoke on synthetic. might just be me but as far as starting it seems no different. time will tell when we get to the colder days, video is loading now-i tried to give it the same exact glow plug on time and the temp is virtually the same, i will see if i can get another vid in the morning before work