here is my cold start at -20 degree's with 2 week old battery's(as in i bought them too weeks ago) 15=40 rotilla it had been plugged in over night but i unplugged it about 3 hours before i made this video for the purpose of making it.

 

see the link i posted. someone from the super duty forum with inside information said that shell owns most of the other oil companies, valvoline, quaker state, etc. its all the same oil in different bottles with different prices to try and capture different market shares. just like johnson controls makes bateries under different names-same batteries. i did not know that. for those of you running rotella dino you can get the same oil for less money if you get valvoline or quaker state. he mentioned other brands that shell owns but i didnt go back and look. thought that was kind of interesting.

i use synthetic in the winter but i notice no difference in power. i doubt its actually 13hp extra. i love the show trucks and musclecar. i agree spike screwed that one up. copperhead was an awesome truck! but when they did that test they compared old lino in that truck to brand new royal purple. of course new oil would give more hp and torque, synthetic or dino. they should of done a baseline with the old oil then done a run with new dino and then again with new synthetic to compare to the new oils not new with old.

strokin- when you guys did that run with royal purple vs. dino how many miles were on the oil when you changed it to royal purple for the 2nd dino run? id have to sell a kidney to be able to afford royal purple every oil change!

 

Double?!?! I paid 60 for 4 gal of dino and 80 for 4 gal of synthetic. 20 more not double

 

at my walmart, motorcraft 5qt jug is $11-$12 times 3 jugs is about $35. RTS runs about $20 ish times four jugs cause its only a gallon is $80.

 

Unless your on your on your second or third oil change you won't see real improvement with a synthetic oil. The first couple of times (especially with RotellaT since it cleans really well) the leftovers from the dino oil are still being cleaned out by the synthetic. Sending oil in for testing on the first oil change would be pointless. Go 500 miles or so and change oil again. You'll be surprised how much junk comes out of the crankcase.

 

well it was 17 here this morning, i saw no difference in cold starts, i will wait til this weekend for a daylight smoke comparison but i really dont care about the smoke- its a diesel- they smoke.

my concern is the double cost for an improvement. so far i have not seen one. it has the same throttle response as it did before and i peak at 19 psi boost, the same as on dino. my seat of the pants meter is the same and it idles the same and is no smoother then before. the only other thing is going to be economy as which i just filled up tonight so we will see how far these 2 tanks go

 

That was kinda the point i was trying to make
thanks for explaining it better.

 

so you are telling me i will see no gains until i change the oil 3 or 4 times? find that hard to believe. if the oil is so busy cleanign my engine of nasty deposits then it cant be doing its job of lubricating and firing the injectors properly. and if dino oil is that nasty and built up then why are my heads so clean under the valve covers? where are all of these deposits? cant be only in the oil pan. i am becoming less impressed with each day on this oil

 

Joe, I really appreciate ya doin this REAL WORLD TEST. I have always wondered if the synthetic would be a benefit. Just like Travis stated earlier, I have run Delo for 235,000 miles and it has worked great for me. If you see an improvement though, I will take it into consideration on changing to Synthetic.

It is always better to have an unbiased opinion on testing, and I do believe you are unbiased regarding this experiment. Thank you again.

 

There is junk everywhere. It finds it.
I dont get it
but thats what i've heard over and over again.
nothing till a change or 2 because of the dino and snyth mixing.
it still lubes, but not 100% as full snyth would.

Thats what one of the big deals with AMSoil is, full snyth, not a mix like mobile 1 which is only like 80%

I dont undersand it either. but.
its the way it works

 

I use Delo as well. I see no problems with it. We run it in all our diesels, from light to heavy.


Anyway. I believe that they got 13 extra HP out of a truck from just switching to synthetic IN EVERYTHING. I use to work for a company that raced prostock motorcycles. The mechanics would always break the motor in on conventional and then switch to synthetic. On a 350+hp pro stock motor they could see as much as 10-15 HP increase on their dyno.

However in our trucks I doubt we would be able to feel any difference. However I believe the difference would be in the longevity of the components. Think about oils as ball bearings. A conventional oil has a zillion ball bearings in it all at slightly different sizes, and your components slide (roll) on these ball bearing. So some of these ball bearings support more weight because they are slightly larger. Which breaks them down faster and wears your components out faster because the weight is not evenly distributed. So more wear on teh oil and components.

Synthetic oil, man made, is created to have all the exact same size ball bearings in it. So, now all the ball bearings are supporting the exact same weight from the engine components, and the engine components weight is evenly distributed accross the ball bearings. Resulting in longer lasting oil, longer lasting components, and less friction...which in turn results in more HP (slightly).

My conclusion, synthetic is better... if you want to have a slight HP advantage, or if you want to wait 500k miles to reap the benefits.

 

2 Questions Joe.

A- At your last run of 6K on the oil,
How much makeup oil did you add?

B- Do you agree that when the oil is changed (same weight)
in a psd it performs better with the fresh oil?

The change in the oil weight has changed the cold tune.
At first i allways expect more smoke. It gets more fuel with
the lighter oil. Its a KAM/RAM/ROM thing. To speed the change
you can boot the pcm. (kill the KAM)

My .02 from testing is the HEUI systems like 30wt over the 40wt
motor oil. Its being used as a hydraulic fluid.

Bill

 

I started this slow conversion process last year. Put 1.5 quarts of Marvel Mystery oil in and ran it till it got good and hot then drained and put syn. The next oil change I put a can of seafoam in and ran it for 60 miles and then drained and put in the syn. The oil was okay color before the seafoam but darkened up quite a bit after it was added. I only had 2400 on the oil. Next round I may add the mystery oil again to see if it cleans it out better than the seafoam. I have no data on the hp increase and don't actually care if I get a little more hp. Just trying to get the engine cleaned up. If any hp is added I would think it may come from having the oil system and componets/sensors/rails etc. being cleaner.

 

Seafoam is good cleaner.

60 miles to get darker oil is good.

I'm not getting anymore leaks with the Seafoam in the crankcase for about 1000 miles now. So i'm sure i'm safe with synth.

I have never read up on the marvel mystery oil.

I didn't plug in truck last night, and i'm sure it was single digits.
Not sure what it is out side, but i'll go take a video here in a few.

 

seafoam in the crankcase for 1000 miles? That is not good...