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I'm replacing my front axle with another straight axle. I thought this would be a simple nuts & bolts thing, but was told it's a bit more involved and I would not be able to do it my garage. Anyone here with some experience with replacing an axle? Thanks
Is the replacement axle a stock set up? if so I would think it should be fairly easy. It would be harder replacing king pins etc (I would think) more so than the replacment
Is the replacement axle a stock set up? if so I would think it should be fairly easy. It would be harder replacing king pins etc (I would think) more so than the replacment
I'm curious what the person that told you you couldn't do it gave you for a reason why? It's not rocket science. Once you get past the stuck parts and rusty bolts, and hope you don't break anything, it's all just r & r nuts and bolts. If you support the frame on jack stands behind the rear eye of the front spring, you could roll the assembly right out the front on a floor jack.
If you're swapping the spindles too, you'll have to pull the king pin, and there's a retainer bolt that holds that in. That could give you some rust grief, too.
Once you get past the stuck parts and rusty bolts.
What he said...It is really simple...though a few bolts have given me some fits and I am still trying to get those blasted king pins out. I think I will have a shop press them out as they have been soaking for days in PB blaster with no budging. Go for it man.
I bent the solid bar that comes off the bottom of the cheap HF 12? ton shop press trying to get the king pins out. I haven't touched the axle since.
I think I heard you can try heating up the area around the pins to help get them out but have not tried it, I know it has been discussed here before but don't remember how long ago.
I say swap away. worst case senario is you take the axle to a shop to have the King Pins pressed and if you need any reeming etc you would probably be taking it in to them anyway.
let us know how it turns out as I still have my new king pins still in the plastic bag they came in
julie you must be blessed because it aint easy !!!! my hands still hurt from wrestling with the pins in my spare axle , and i too bent a press in my son in laws dad's shop trying to get the consarned things out !!!!!!!!!!! i haven't given up , but have went out and found me a real BIG BF-N H to fix this little problem !!!!!!!!!!! i will win , but wether the axle is useable well ............... and pulling one and putting another axle in is easy , like they said after you argue with 50 plus years of rust etc. on them and the fasteners .
HD74 axles are easy...yeah right well sorta like everyone mentioned the hardest part may be getting the king pins out, I had mine done by a shop about 9 years ago so it was easy for me to change my axle when I went to the stretched one. As mentioned above you can easily take the exle off and take it to a shop to have the king pins and bushings installed that's probably your easiest way to go to ensure its done right. I would also go with the heavy duty tie rod my $.02
Kevin there's a big difference between an axel that had been sitting for years with the pins rusted in and the one on the truck hat has (at least some) grease on it and has been shaken and used recently.
I put on a dash of Auto trans fluid, tapped th ebottom with a hammer once and pulled the pin out with my fingers. Lucky, probably, but you have to start with parts that are in a restorable condition. It sounds like you need to find another axel!
Try heating the pins up, then letting them cool, then heating up the axel and keeping the pin cool and pushing them out again.
If all else fails, pack the axel end in dry ice for a couple of hours to freeze (and shrink) the kingpin - then heat the axel around the pin with a torch (evenly). BUT if you do this do not hit the axel or pin with a hammer, it will shatter - press it out. The pin should come out easily. If it doesn't get a different axel.
Are you just swaping the axle itself or the whole assembly, spindles and all? All here are right depending on which scenario you are doing. Replacing the whole assembly is pretty easy.
If you are replacing only the axle, using spindles from a different axle, you should rebush the kingpins while it is apart. Mixing used kingpins and bushings from different axles is not a good idea. It is recommended you let an automotive machine shop replace and hone the bushings and reinstall the kingpins.
You can do it yourself - as said the only potentially difficult bit is those kingpins. I did mine with no previous experience at all. One kingpin came out easy, the other was properly not moving for anything. Luckily my dad is a maintenance engineer and took it to work with him (he managed to slowly drill it out bit by bit on a pillar drill). He then reamed the bushings for me and job sorted.
Are you just swaping the axle itself or the whole assembly, spindles and all? All here are right depending on which scenario you are doing. Replacing the whole assembly is pretty easy.
If you are replacing only the axle, using spindles from a different axle, you should rebush the kingpins while it is apart. Mixing used kingpins and bushings from different axles is not a good idea. It is recommended you let an automotive machine shop replace and hone the bushings and reinstall the kingpins.
I'm replacing the axle and re-use the spindles and it was my intent to replace any bushings and pins.
Well, The kingpins may come right out or they may stick - and how much you won't know until you try it!!!!!
And, take my word for it. It may be quite a bit harder to get the new kingpins in the new axel as it was to get the old ones out. Be sure to "hone" the axel tube for the kingpins clean before you try it.
One more thing. There is a bearing that goes between axel and spindle body. There are no instructions on installing these bearings - the flat surface goes up! You'll know what I mean when you see it. And buy lots of shims (at least 6) for inthere as well. I used 2 on one side and 3 on the other. You'll know what I mean when take your old one apart. Take note of the bearing position and the shim positions when you disassemble - take pictures first!
I have always seen the shims installed on top of the axle where they take up the extra clearance but aren't subject to carrying the weight of the vehicle.
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