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I believe what you're looking for is what it takes for the "Drive Cycle" to complete. I'm on travel and don't have access to my service manual so I cannot give details to the drive cycle. You might try searching the Internet for details on completing the Ford drive cycle.
That's an excellent question, and I'll be interested to see what responses are given. Here's some generic info I found that implies that it may vary from state to state in terms of how long/what conditions must be met to pass the test. I live in Md and they are pretty strick about not passing if the codes have recently been reset.
You might start by running through the listing at this site.
-Rod
Thanks.
I will admit to cheating the emission testing in Maryland by clearing the code. Previously the code wouldn't come back for a couple hundred miles and I never had any trouble passing. Now the code returns in 30 miles and it wouldn't pass.
I sort of know the problem & didn't want to spend the money.
Feel free to chastise me, but I don't care.
It takes a complete drive cycle under all parameters to complete a drive cycle. In other words, a cold startup, a good long drive under a full range of speeds. If you have a scantool connected, it can tell you when emissions readiness and other readiness monitors are ready.
I think an O2 sensor or EGR related problem could throw a cat conv code. I'm not sure how you can rule them out if there aren't any codes thrown. A cat conv is not a cheap repair.
Yeah, the converter problem isn't going to go away, but it will get worse. If you ignore it long enough you might even find yourself stuck somewhere when it starts to come apart. They you are stuck with getting your truck fixed AND paying a tow bill.
Wait till the light comes on again, post all codes and the long term fuel trim(s). O@ sensor problems do not often trigger P0420 or P0430 codes, but they can cause the converter to fail, and then you get a code. EGR problems also cause converter problems. Honda proved this with the Odyssey and CRV.
If the vehicle is properly maintained, your converter should never fail. Its where tune up items are ignored, things like spark plugs and O2 sensors, that cause the vehicle to run rich or lean, and that in turn wipes out the converters. I have never had a converter fail due to mileage. My dad had a converter fail when the distributor failed 500 miles from home, which is understandable.
It turns out it was a bank 2 oxygen sensor. It was replaced although the threads were corroded and the hole had to be retapped. I should have had a better mechanic look at it originally.