only in fantasy land will that happen... lol


I will add the international part number to my stock for anyone that wants to buy one, OR I'll sell you the Motorcraft part. as soon as I get a second to add it to my specials section.

 

can you help me i having a problem with my truck i can't figure out

 

can any of you all help me out my truck completely shut down on me and it was saying cam sensor was bad and icp sensor was bad i replaced both of them still no start now its throwing the code p1280 icp out of range low and advice would be greatly appreciated

 

It's better if you start your own thread in the forum, describing in detail what happened, specifics about your truck, and what you've done to try and fix the problem, if at all. That way guys can chime in and offer help.

Adding on to the end of someone elses thread doesn't really get your problem out in view for others to see.

Welcome to FTE, BTW!

Stewart

 

I've gone through 3 grey CPS units and now have a Black IH installed,the truck still shuts down without notice,today I scanned a P0001 code which says Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Open doe's anyone have input as to the fix?2002 F250SD 7.3 225,000miles

 

Welcome

Could you please start a new thread for your problem. It will get you alot more and better answers.

 

Nolan,sorry for being out of place.I'm new toposting and am still learning.How do I start a new thread?ThanksGB

 

Long time lurker semi-active on other PS forums- I learned the hard way just how bad a stealer-ship can be.

van350sd- I have been through an absolute nightmare. I have two new injectors installed by a dealership that i didn't need they happen to be #3 and #8, and have gotten more than 60 percent of my money back so far. After the new injectors they were still failing CCT, only thing that fixed it was a Black CPS, and later a shimmed Dark Gray.

From everything i have researched the F4TZ-12K073-C (darkgrayblue) as well as the light gray sensors have much smaller magnets inside and as a result need to be a much more precise distance from the end of the cam. The original CPS sensor had a larger magnet so the distance didnt matter as much... but occasionally as it got old the magnet would expand with heat and then lock itself in place inside the sensor hence your dead CPS's and the resulting Found- On- Road- Dead- Ford.

The International Dealer Westrux Montebello near me mandates that prior to any CPS replacement they use the tool shown below on the second page of the PDF to measure the placement of the end of the cam in the engine, they then use a shim kit to place the end of the sensor the appropriate distance from the end of the cam. This ensures an accurate reading by the magnet in the cam sensor, and therefore accurate timing and a smooth engine. The below document is the instruction manual for the tool. In my opinion EVERY FORD DEALER DOING THESE RECALLS NEEDS THIS TOOL AND SHIM KITS. If my local dealer had done this properly they would have never told me #3 and #8 injector were bad, I would have never had the injectors replaced, I wouldnt have had to buy my own AutoEnginuity, an old style black CPS, get the truck back to normal and then somehow decide to call International Westrux to have them shim a Dark Gray CPS. I did my own water pump last weekend just because i have lost all faith in mechanics. Anyways the link is below, You can call the International dealers and ask for part numbers on the cam shim kits for air gap, they acted amazed that I just found this out, acted as if it was common knowledge, and couldn't believe that ford doesn't do anything about this YMMV. Made in Mexico doesn't help either, makes me sick.

http://international.spx.com/content...SE4414-10A.pdf

This 6.7 has me real worried, it may be good once it leaves the factory, but it will all be way over any ford techs head when something goes wrong.

 

Yeas Sir,

I use the same tool to adjust the Cam Sensor on my Rigs.



The above photo you can see how the shim just clears the bracket, so when you install it , it is centered and even. There is about 1/8" of play
all around the inside diameter of the shim.




Notice the Black plunger on the bottom of the tool, this is what touches the Cam Wheel and gives you the Air Gap.

When you push the Black Plunger Buttom in, the sweeping hand on the dial moves.

When you look at the bracket of the tool that bolts to the engine, it looks kinda bent.

it is not bent, it is molded that way to compensate for the thickness of the O-Ring. The Bolt itself is a Grade 10.


The only problem is when I used the tool with my main mechanic Pal we could not see the dial, so I used my Videoscope from Griots Garage, it was the only way to look at the dial "Head-On".

The best way to find the air gap is when the engine is out, and the belt off with no fan in the way.

But you can do it precise with the help of the hand held scope.


The Blue Colored Cup is for the old CPS the 1.142 .. T444E

The Red unit is for the T466E Engine

Best,

Russ

 

Awesome post russ. Do you find that the shim kit will fix the majority of the #3 and #8 injector issues with the newer cps's when they do happen to be outta whack? What would be your preference; an old black cps or a new shimmed cps?

Please keep us up to date on when and or if your research gets published. I would love to throw that article and magazine right into the face of the service manager and diesel tech at my local stealership.

Thanks,
Trevor

 

Trev,

In my opinion,... the old stock CMP from International is very well made, has an American made Sensor, manufactured in America and works as it should is my choice.

The Ford 7.3L Powerstroke/Navistar was designed to have the CMP without any shims.
Simply install the CMP and tighten it to 18 Ft. Lbs. Torque. That's it.

The newer Ford/International CMP units have a couple of design flaws and a large amount of defective units. I would stay away from them if you cannot find an old Black Production Unit. If you cannot find an old unit and can only find new production, try the Borg Warner made CMP.

You don't really need to use the tool if you have AE and you know how to use it.

1. Get your readings with the CMP installed with no shim.

2. Then Installm one shim and get your readings, drive at least 10-15 miles to let it adjust.

3. If the numbers look better you can add a 2nd shim, an on.

4. If the numbers start to go bad, remove your last shim.

That is one way to do it by trial and error.

best,
Russ

 

Russ - Did you ever get around to checking if the 2010 Grey units have an updated sensor in them? Right now I have an older 2009 grey unit installed but I have a spare 2010 (May 2010 date) unit as a spare. Just checking to see if the newer 2010 Grey models are improved in any way.

 

And what if you don't know how to use it? What can AE monitor to determine CMP health besides RPM? Are you referring to perdel readings to determine which shim the truck likes better?

 

Exactly, PERDEL.;

You can try to see how many of the 8 cylinders you can get to 0, or closest to 0.

I may not explain things very well sometimes.

Even if you adjust the Air - Gap on the CPS, using AE and PERDEL Test would give you an accurate assessment on how it is firing close to 0.


And No, I have not cut open a 2010 Gray CPS open yet.

I would imagine the new made stock will have the newer sensor inside, as the older sensor is no longer made. So just make sure it's a 2nd quarter of 2010 made unit. If you don't have the original plastic bag there is no way to date the unit, unless you cut it open.

 

It is not mentioned in this Special Service Message but I would like to know if the "grey" recall CPS is causing intermittent "no-start" episodes for any owners who had the recall done?