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OK, so I ran the test and in order to get the P1298 - IDM Failure I have to run a Key On Engine Off test. When I run a buzz test I get a P1668 - PCM/IDM communication failure. I have to wonder if my P1298 is caused due to P1668 and then the problem is narrowing down the P1668.
The only other error I'm getting is P0284 - Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault. This could be caused due to the grey CPS or just the fact that it's common for number 8 to get starved.
But being that I cleared the codes, ran the test and never received P1298 and P1668 before and am now receiving these errors is bugging me. I think it may be due to the fact that I unplugged the IDM. maybe a wire came loose, maybe a wire got pulled to hard. I don't know but I'm going to narrow these errors down and eliminate them, I just hate taking that stinking wheel well apart, it's not exactly the easiest thing I've ever done.
OK, so I ran the test and in order to get the P1298 - IDM Failure I have to run a Key On Engine Off test. When I run a buzz test I get a P1668 - PCM/IDM communication failure. I have to wonder if my P1298 is caused due to P1668 and then the problem is narrowing down the P1668.
The only other error I'm getting is P0284 - Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault. This could be caused due to the grey CPS or just the fact that it's common for number 8 to get starved.
But being that I cleared the codes, ran the test and never received P1298 and P1668 before and am now receiving these errors is bugging me. I think it may be due to the fact that I unplugged the IDM. maybe a wire came loose, maybe a wire got pulled to hard. I don't know but I'm going to narrow these errors down and eliminate them, I just hate taking that stinking wheel well apart, it's not exactly the easiest thing I've ever done.
Visseroth, I just got done dropping the wheelwell, got the IDM out, opened it up, said what the heck, boy that resistor is small and close to that other pole, called my F.I.L., he said to come over, got there, his heat gun probe was too big to get in there, came home and glued it back together, all that work for nothing.. Beings that resistor is so close to that other small resistor, i,m taking mine to a shop where they do this for a living, to parinoid to do it myself. Question: When you heated that resistor down, you didn't happen to join the soder to the resistor next to it, did you?? It is really close to both resistor poles..
You really shouldn't need to add much, if any, solder Mike. A small pencil iron an few seconds of heat is all that's needed to convince the SMT to pop loose, and there is generally enough left on the board to attach the resistor.
Man, my post didn't go thru. Put it thru 15 minutes ago.. Scott, my FIL said we'll try it when I get a smaller tip for his soddering gun or purchase a gizmo like you mentioned, was really syked to see the difference but chit happens. With that rubbery protective coating on the board, did you scratch it off the top of the stock resistor with your fingernail or did you just heat it up and removed and installed???
I scratched the coating off the "6042" resistor with a pick before melting the solder and then flicked it up as I heated each side. Actually, once one side is loose the other will break free rather easily. I used a small pencil type soldering iron from Big Lots. It came with some pretty small tips.
I scratched the coating off the "6042" resistor with a pick before melting the solder and then flicked it up as I heated each side. Actually, once one side is loose the other will break free rather easily. I used a small pencil type soldering iron from Big Lots. It came with some pretty small tips.
Alright Roland, we'll give it a shot again, I get one of those pencil irons somewhere locally.
I already have a pencil soldering iron as I solder things from time to time. That's how I fixed my air bag issue I had. All I had to do was replace the light bulb in the air bag switch in the dash with another miniture 12v light and wam blam thank you mam, no more air bag codes
Anyhow, I scratched away the surface, warmed one side and was already prying on it a bit with my pocket knife and it went flying out of there and landed in the case. I tipped the case over and saw it fall out on the floor but I couldn't find it.
I also took a round wire brush that you put on a drill and took the old seal completely off so that the new seal would be completely sealed up with no leaks. I took a syringe (5ml) and filled it with RTV high temp silicon gasket sealer and applied it to the box and cover then applied it one more time to the top of the box after closing it. I also held the top of the box in place with a C clamp to make sure it sealed all the way. I wanted to make sure I did not get anything in the box that wasn't supposed to be there.
I sealed mine up with the same, for now, might have't to wait awhile, got to many things to do the next couple days but we'll get it, thanks for the help..
Actually I didn't drop mine per say, got all the screws and push thingys popped out and pulled half the wheelwell out and down a bit, then used a bungie cord to pull it back just enough to unscrew the IDM out, worked great, tight, but worked. Still a pain though...
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