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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 11:21 PM
  #16  
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vellingapa
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From: Washinhton
Where might one find a diagram showing where all the zerk fittings are on a 2004 F350 Super Duty 4x4 ???
 
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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 11:46 PM
  #17  
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On the 05 the only ones I know of are the front axle u-joints.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 01:14 PM
  #18  
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77f2504by4
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i use valvoline with moly. one thing you never want to do with a moly lube is use it in an application where softer metals are involved. only use it in steel to steel contact. if you use it in a bronze or brass bearing it will eat it up in no time.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 07:49 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 77f2504by4
i use valvoline with moly. one thing you never want to do with a moly lube is use it in an application where softer metals are involved. only use it in steel to steel contact. if you use it in a bronze or brass bearing it will eat it up in no time.
Yup the sulphur in moly-disulphide doesn't like any yellow metal & will get after & corrode it, so we have to be mndeful of the applicaton, when choosing any moly loaded grease, or the recipe for a oil lubed gear case too!!!!

For instance my old garden tiller calls for a GL-1, 140wt non friction modified gear lube, as it has a bronze worm drive gear & wouldn't like a friction modified moly loaded GL-5 gear lube!!!!

Maybe some older tranny cases have yellow metal bearings too, so a moly loaded lube wouldn't be the best choice there either.

Anyway a lithium based moly boosted grease should be ok for most non immersed steel bearings, but not a good choice for boat trailer wheel bearings, which get immersed in water, so they do better with a polyethylene loaded marine grade recipe, that stands up to water wash out better than moly.

As I understand it, the 3 to 4% moly in the lithium thickened grease, is to fortify the lube film in extreem pressure use, when the grease film gets squeezed out & just the moly remains to take the load, which being an exteem pressure lube is one of it's claims to fame.

As has been said, the synthetic & semi-synthetic greases use a better grade base oil, that usually offers a better low temp pour point (some as low as -60F) & high temp drop point with operating perfomance (over +500F), so it would be good for use in cold country where bearings get plenty cold in winter, or say in the mountains, where the brakes are used a lot & get the wheel bearings plenty hot.

So, as the synthetic greases usually have a higher dropping point & operating service ceiling & a lower pour point & better cold weather operating performance, they can offer an advantage in extreem hot & cold conditions, with heavy loads & hot brakes.

Bottom line, use the recipe that the manufacturer specfies, as they know their product best!!!!

Some more lube thoughts for pondering.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 10:31 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by pawpaw
Yup the sulphur in moly-disulphide doesn't like any yellow metal & will get after & corrode it, so we have to be mndeful of the applicaton, when choosing any moly loaded grease, or the recipe for a oil lubed gear case too!!!!

For instance my old garden tiller calls for a GL-1, 140wt non friction modified gear lube, as it has a bronze worm drive gear & wouldn't like a friction modified moly loaded GL-5 gear lube!!!!

Maybe some older tranny cases have yellow metal bearings too, so a moly loaded lube wouldn't be the best choice there either.

...



Some more lube thoughts for pondering.
A little OT, but,

Very few gear lubes use MoSO2. The reason GL-5 is not recommended for gearboxes with yellow metals is the large amount of active sulphur EP additive. Why do you think GL-5 stinks? Friction modifiers for limited slip differentials are also not an issue, except for transmission sycros.

An endless debate is going on over at TheSamba.com, devoted to aircooled VW's. GL-4 lube was specified by VW for the transaxle, but since only GL-5 is easy to find today, a higher number must be "better". This is similar, in a different way, to API SM being better just because it is newer, yet flat-tappet cams take a beating due to lowered phosphorus levels.

Jim
 
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 10:55 AM
  #21  
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When we buy a vehicle, we have just paid the manufacturers professional staff Big Bucks, to spend a career lifetime to study, verify, record & specify the "Minimum" lubrication needs of our rides bearings, gears, & engines, so why would we think we know better than the pros????

Now If we want to use a Higher quality lube than that specified, like using a synthetic product that meets or exceeds the specs, say with wider operating temp ranges, or able to bear heavier loads under the specified conditions, et, I don't see a problem with that, but to vary from the basic lube recipe, or lube specification to which a lubricant is tested for the application & parts used, isn't wise imo, unless we're schooled in such matters.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 07:18 AM
  #22  
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I noticed the temp range on some grease did not match the environment I live in ( Northeast, -30 to +100) So I buy the grease that matches the area I live. It turned out to be synthetic. Stay very far away from Wal-Mart stuff. I had it in my gun and on a summer day all the oil bled out!
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 08:02 AM
  #23  
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Mike in PA
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Originally Posted by 95250mac
I noticed the temp range on some grease did not match the environment I live in ( Northeast, -30 to +100) So I buy the grease that matches the area I live. It turned out to be synthetic. Stay very far away from Wal-Mart stuff. I had it in my gun and on a summer day all the oil bled out!
Had the same thing happen 95250mac, opened the
case for the grease gun and oil poured out. I figured it was
the heat breaking down the grease. What a mess.
The F-350 I have came with red grease in the front 4wd u-joints.
I hear it is the Mobil1 synthetic that the factory uses. Got me some
and a new grease gun...

Mike in PA
 
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