E4OD problems
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
This isn't a good picture, but if you look at the bottom, right next to the jack you can see the regulator (under the two yellow wires that are spliced).
This is an image of the passenger side inner fender looking strait down.
If you do have a regulator there, then that could be causing all of this if it is indeed shot.
This is an image of the passenger side inner fender looking strait down.
If you do have a regulator there, then that could be causing all of this if it is indeed shot.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
From: s.e. wisconsin
sorry it has taken so long to get back i have been sick and we have been having a bunch of rain the noise i was hearing is some sort of a fuel pump on the inner fender i have not been able to find a regulator yet and the other day my overdrive light started flashing while i was idling in park i shut it off started it back up and it hasnt flashed since also there is a plug on the side of the trans that the clip that holds it in is broke off of i pulled it out cleaned it up and pluged it back in with no change
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
From: s.e. wisconsin
i think i located it on my truck there is a box like that on the passanger side on the fender i just looked on autozones website and it is $14 so i will pick one up after work tomorrow and let you know if that took care of the problems thank you for all the help so far
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
From: s.e. wisconsin
ok i put the new voltage regulator in befor i was charging at 13.0-13.3 volts it would jump around with the new one i am charging at 13.9 volts all the time so i think that solved my charging issue but the tranny still dosnt shift so idk wtf to do now anyone wanna buy a 92 f250? haha anyone have any other ideas
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
If you look back to my picture, you will see two yellow wires that have been spiced together and then covered with heat shrink tubing. Normally there is a double connector there, but they can corrode and eventually cause power to stop at that connector. Power is distributed to most of the truck through the heavier of those two wires.
In my case, I found the connector slightly melted, and could feel it getting warm as the truck idled so I cut out the connector and soldered the wires together.
There were some strange symptoms in the case of my truck. Turning on the headlights or even a turn signal was enough to cause a brief cut in power to the whole truck. Its not a nice feeling when the truck sputters during a lane change at 70 MPH.
I don't know if this is causing your problem but I would inspect that connector to see what it looks like. Mine was melted bad enough that it couldn't even be pulled apart anymore.
Engine block ground straps and the ground strap at the firewall should also be taken apart and cleaned.
In my case, I found the connector slightly melted, and could feel it getting warm as the truck idled so I cut out the connector and soldered the wires together.
There were some strange symptoms in the case of my truck. Turning on the headlights or even a turn signal was enough to cause a brief cut in power to the whole truck. Its not a nice feeling when the truck sputters during a lane change at 70 MPH.
I don't know if this is causing your problem but I would inspect that connector to see what it looks like. Mine was melted bad enough that it couldn't even be pulled apart anymore.
Engine block ground straps and the ground strap at the firewall should also be taken apart and cleaned.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: houma, louisiana
i think your problem is either a bad or misadjusted mlps on the trans. try this and see if this works.
Wrong Gear Starts
Bad or mis-adjusted MLPS
Can cause wrong gear starts, no upshift, falls out of gear, and high line pressure = harsh
upshift and engagements. May or may not set code 67/634 (MLPS out of position).
Note
MLPS is located on driver's side of transmission case.
MLPS adjustment
Place manual lever in Neutral. Line up I.D mark on sensor with l.D. mark on plastic
bushing. Tighten bolts.
To check MLPS
1. Hook red lead of DVOM to pin # 199 (MLP sensor signal).
2. Hook black lead of meter to pin 359 (sensor signal return).
3. Set meter to ohms.
4. Move manual lever through the different positions and compare DVOM reading to
chart below.
Manuel lever position
Meter should read:
P 3769 to 4608 ohms
R 1304 to 1593 ohms
N 660 to 807 ohms
D .... 361 to 442 ohms
2 190 to 232 ohms
I 80 to 95 ohms
Important
If the MLPS needs replacement, use Ford part # E5TZ-7A247-A. This kit includes a new
style harness connector. You must replace the connector to use the new MLPS. By
sliding the old wire separator from the original connector up the harness you can leave it
in place as you install the new connector. This helps to keep the wires in their original
location.
Note
Make sure you clean the harness connector with brake clean and apply some dielectric
grease to the pins. This will ensure a good connection. Use Permatex part # 67V
(dielectric tune-up grease). You can get it at most auto parts stores.
Bad or mis-adjusted MLPS
Can cause wrong gear starts, no upshift, falls out of gear, and high line pressure = harsh
upshift and engagements. May or may not set code 67/634 (MLPS out of position).
Note
MLPS is located on driver's side of transmission case.
MLPS adjustment
Place manual lever in Neutral. Line up I.D mark on sensor with l.D. mark on plastic
bushing. Tighten bolts.
To check MLPS
1. Hook red lead of DVOM to pin # 199 (MLP sensor signal).
2. Hook black lead of meter to pin 359 (sensor signal return).
3. Set meter to ohms.
4. Move manual lever through the different positions and compare DVOM reading to
chart below.
Manuel lever position
Meter should read:
P 3769 to 4608 ohms
R 1304 to 1593 ohms
N 660 to 807 ohms
D .... 361 to 442 ohms
2 190 to 232 ohms
I 80 to 95 ohms
Important
If the MLPS needs replacement, use Ford part # E5TZ-7A247-A. This kit includes a new
style harness connector. You must replace the connector to use the new MLPS. By
sliding the old wire separator from the original connector up the harness you can leave it
in place as you install the new connector. This helps to keep the wires in their original
location.
Note
Make sure you clean the harness connector with brake clean and apply some dielectric
grease to the pins. This will ensure a good connection. Use Permatex part # 67V
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
From: s.e. wisconsin
j tate those are my symptoms to a tee i was under there today and pulled a connector on the drivers side of the trans out an pluged it back in and it started shifting different right now it is like when it first started not predictable at all for a while i knew every time it would start in od but i could manualy shift to 2nd i will check that out tomorrow i have nothing else to do except get some applications cuz i got sh!$ canned today now i gotta get my own cell phone that sucks haha i may have a line on my dream job playing with full size tonka toys in a full size sandbox but we will see what happens thanks for all your help
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: houma, louisiana
j tate those are my symptoms to a tee i was under there today and pulled a connector on the drivers side of the trans out an pluged it back in and it started shifting different right now it is like when it first started not predictable at all for a while i knew every time it would start in od but i could manualy shift to 2nd i will check that out tomorrow i have nothing else to do except get some applications cuz i got sh!$ canned today now i gotta get my own cell phone that sucks haha i may have a line on my dream job playing with full size tonka toys in a full size sandbox but we will see what happens thanks for all your help
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
From: s.e. wisconsin
ok so this is what i found out today i found the marks on my old mlps they were in line installed the new one and reset the codes no change the previos owner told me the trans was rebuildt at sheboygan trans and should be under warrantee and he would call and let me know for sure if it was that was 2 weeks ago havent heard from him since so i called the shop today and yes they did rebuild a trans for it last year but...... the guy i bought it from let somone drive it they got it stuck and smoked the trans and it was so bad they couldnt rebuild it so the guy i bought it from had a junkyard trans installed by them i am gonna go by my friends shop tomorrow and see if i can use his scanner and get the codes off of it i was looking today where is the obd1 port i cant find it anywhere i looked under the dash and all over the engine bay on my f150 it is on the drivers side fender but not this thing thanks for all the help
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