finally got pyrometer installed
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 116
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From: Washington
I also want to put in a new thermostat. I only get the truck warm if under load. Otherwise it never gets much off the cold mark. I blocked about half the radiator and it will nearly get to the low normal. So, my big question is where the heck is the thermostat? STOP LAUGHING!!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,417
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From: Braham MN
if you cut the wires at all or spliced them the resistance will be off. these types use a very very minut amount of resistance so that could make the gauge off, IF you have to splice it anywhere be sure to solder all connections and clean them very well before.
Diesel Rod
Diesel Rod
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
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From: Faibanks Ak.
The thermostat is in the housing that your top radiator hose hooks to.
They are not bad to change but if you do only use an original one no aftermarket ones. I get mine from an international.
They are not bad to change but if you do only use an original one no aftermarket ones. I get mine from an international.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
I also want to put in a new thermostat. I only get the truck warm if under load. Otherwise it never gets much off the cold mark. I blocked about half the radiator and it will nearly get to the low normal. So, my big question is where the heck is the thermostat? STOP LAUGHING!!!
It is a little hidden in these trucks.
Look at the engine end of the upper rad hose,
Its clamped onto a cast iron piece that bolts down to the top, front corner of the engine behind the alternator,
That cast iron piece is the thermostat housing.
You will need to remove the alternator and vacuum pump to get at it, but its not too bad.
Use only a ford motorcraft or international harvester thermostat. Don't get one from a parts store as they usually don't hold up well and in some cases are not even a correct fit for this engine.
Also, inside that cast iron thermostat housing, there is a check ball that acts as a bypass for the coolant. Make sure you don't loose that when you lift the housing off the engine and that its in good condition (should move freely up and down inside the housing bore). I would be very curious to hear what you find in there. I suspect some one may have removed the thermostat.
Seriously, there's no such thing as a dumb question, so ask away.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 116
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From: Washington
I will check with the local dealer for the correct thermostat and gaskets. I just broke 130,000 this morning on my way to work. Should I just replace the ball valve at the same time?
It sitting about 32 degrees this morning and I got the truck to “N” on the temp after letting it warm up for about 5 min, driving 5 miles in town then 15 miles at 60 mph. After slowing back to 35 mph it cooled back down to below the normal range. About half the rad is blocked with cardboard.
It sitting about 32 degrees this morning and I got the truck to “N” on the temp after letting it warm up for about 5 min, driving 5 miles in town then 15 miles at 60 mph. After slowing back to 35 mph it cooled back down to below the normal range. About half the rad is blocked with cardboard.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,614
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I will check with the local dealer for the correct thermostat and gaskets. I just broke 130,000 this morning on my way to work. Should I just replace the ball valve at the same time?
It sitting about 32 degrees this morning and I got the truck to “N” on the temp after letting it warm up for about 5 min, driving 5 miles in town then 15 miles at 60 mph. After slowing back to 35 mph it cooled back down to below the normal range. About half the rad is blocked with cardboard.
It sitting about 32 degrees this morning and I got the truck to “N” on the temp after letting it warm up for about 5 min, driving 5 miles in town then 15 miles at 60 mph. After slowing back to 35 mph it cooled back down to below the normal range. About half the rad is blocked with cardboard.
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