John,
Been real busy lately.Been workin on the truck and another car thats needs finished by Jun for it's first trip down the 1/4mile in years.
I will post a pic of my truck tommorow in here.It aint done but is coming together,had your typical problems.Aftermarket fenders mating with filler panel and grille shell is always fun.And the windshield trim that didnt go right!
DF,
I'm sorry,those inside bolts could have been left in but backed out half ways.You are right though,those holes are nor slotted but i garuntee the other 8 bolts that hold the door are.I think now is the time for you to play with it for a hour or so and let us know if anything went right for you.I cant explain it much more.Just follow Johns advice and try a little at a time.It might not take much change to clear the fender.You'd be suprised~
...blue

1970 F250 Sport Custom 4x4.351W,DuraSpark,N.P.435,Dana24,Dana diffs,4.10:1's,36x9.00 CordovonPower Kings,Blue/white.---oleblue---

 

There are more adjustment bolts inside the door. You get to them by taking off the door panel. You can adjust up/down forward/back. It takes lots of practice and patience to get it right. I worked about 3 hours on mine and it is still not perfect.

 

Thanks DAV1972, I will take apart the door and look inside after dinner, I have removed and replaced the door 3 times using the bolts holding the hinge to the door post. I scraped up the paint on the fender and bent the door skin for nothing, there is no adjustability there. I have no clue what some of our other posters are talking about. Hopefully I will have better luck inside the door. DF

 

Why do the doors on my truck line up on the front but not the back? The top of the back lines up but the bottom is in too far. How can I fix this. It is on both doors. Could the front end have been damaged and replaced? Thanks Eric

 

> Thanks DAV1972, I will take
>apart the door and look
>inside after dinner, I have
>removed and replaced the door
>3 times using the bolts
>holding the hinge to the
>door post. I scraped up
>the paint on the fender
>and bent the door skin
>for nothing, there is no
>adjustability there. I have no
>clue what some of our
>other posters are talking about.
>Hopefully I will have better
>luck inside the door.
>DF
To bad you scratched your paint and fubared the skin.I or John never once told you take the thing off!Just loosen bolts and bring the door in or out to see if it clears the fender after adjustment.Just becuase it rubs the fender doesn't mean it needs to go forward or back.And there is adjustment there,you said the door was fitting fine so i never said the inner 6 bolts bececaus those will do more adjustment than i thought you needed in the first place.The six bolts that John and i refered to has all kind of adjustment.The holes on the hinge itself are slotted.I had my doors all over the place till i got them right.They are perfect now.Somebody at some point in time might have opened the door too far or slammed it i would say open.It might have bent the sheetmetal inside the door where the bolts Dave said to try.Try that and let us know how it went.And this time get someone to help you.I never even thought to tell you another set of hands is big help in the adjustment process!Good luck
...blue

1970 F250 Sport Custom 4x4.351W,DuraSpark,N.P.435,Dana24,Dana diffs,4.10:1's,36x9.00 CordovonPower Kings,Blue/white.---oleblue---

 

Heeeeeeey! Got my inside door panels off and wow, six more bolts inside! I did mention, didn't I, in my first post on the problem that the door fits flush, it is just too far forward. I loosened all six bolts and stood ready with the rachet while Mrs Dino pulled the door back as hard as she could. As she held the door back I snugged up the bolts. Less than 10 minutes work, wow! The door opens without scraping the fender now, but it really should go back a little more, should I put a washer under the hinge bolts or grind some more adjustment room on the square holes inside the door ? Elsmith- the hinge-to-cab post bolts let you move the door in and out. Try loosening all but the top one that is deep in the pocket, this should let the bottom of the door pivot out. Don't try like I did to work alone, get a helper to hold the door while you do the wrench. DF

 

DF I thought about that but at the front it is flush with the fenders. I think it is the bushings in the hinges because I can pickup up on the back of the door and all the bolts are tight. Thanks Eric

 

Glad you got it fixed.Sorry if anything i said screwed up your door.I guess it's proof what works for one guy at any given time will not work for another

...blue


1970 F250 Sport Custom 4x4.351W,DuraSpark,N.P.435,Dana24,Dana diffs,4.10:1's,36x9.00 CordovonPower Kings,Blue/white.---oleblue---

 

Hi. I am the proud owner of a 71 f250 360 ci but she needs help. She's got rust in some areas.

At the auto parts store there's this stuff that one can spray on the rust and will turn it black and neutralize it. What's your opinion on this product. How much better is this than to sand/cut out the area and use Por15?

 

Hi, If it was my truck I think I would go for the sanding and use POR 15 if it is rusted through then you have to cut it out and weld in a new piece. John

 

I have a new Ranger Edge. The day I picked it up we found that the battery was leaking acid onto the frame, mounts and sheet metal. The dealer nutrulized the acid and wants to paint over the rusted frame and metal. I don't think this is a good idea because of covering the rust on the frame. please advise.

 

I have a 76 F-150 that has small holes in the lower doorskin towards the rear of the door. The holes are at the biggest, no larger than a dime. My question is, would it be best to try and weld in small discs, or to put new lower doorskins in. I am fairly proficient on a MIG welder and own a small portable unit, so that would be my only option for welding.

 

I must also mention that the holes happen to be where the outer doorskin and the interior skin (not sure on actual term) come together to a point where they run touching each other. There are also a few tiny holes up on the interior piece of metal where it pulls away from the out doorskin and forms into the door jam.

 

i need help with chopping the top on my 1948 f-1. im new to customizing but my flip front end turned out good,now any help with chopping would be great.. thank

 

Blue,
I'm new at this body work but I need to learn to do this myself. I'm using por-15 epoxy putty to fill in holes and dents. It works real good except I can't get a smothe finish. It looks good until I prime it and then you can see where I patched it. Should I finish it off with bondo over a large area or what. For instance, If I have three holes patched in line with each other about an inch apart I then can see three indentations after I prime it. If I paint over that then it looks even worse. Should I just keep sanding and filling until it's perfect or what? I'm trying to use only epoxy putty. Looking forward to hearing from you.

Bob