if anybody needs any basic tips or questions on metalworking or using plastic filler properaly,wire welding,and general,
i might be able to answer you.i am experienced in these feilds.
i leave painting to my freind,he is way better than me on metalics.

i am knee deep in "re" doin' my 70 f2504x4.....blue

 

Thank You for offering to help those of us with questions on our trucks. I would like to take you up on your offer on occasion. My project is a 1972 f100 4X4. I rebuilt the motor myself, cleaned up the chassy and now I am about to start on the body/paint. What is the best way to get in touch with you? My name is David and my e-mail is DT1972LR@JUNO.COM. Thanks again!

 

dave,
would be glad to help you as we both are (re)doin' our 67 series trucks.
i have mine all apart and am still in the rough stages of work.right now i am welding in new cab corners and have been busy.in fact i am not doin' other stuff i should be doin'. oh well.

hey e-mail me at oleblue70(No Email Addresses In Posts!) and we will see what we can do.later,
...blue

 

OLEBLUE70,

MAYBE YOU CAN LEAD ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.I'M IN NEED OF A FRAME FOR A '80 F-150 4X4.DO YOU KNOW OF AN SOURCES?


THANKS,
RUSTING-OUT (JOE)

 

joe,
i don't know where to find one other than salvage yards.

also i think that the 80 was the swiss cheese frame and you don't wnat that frame ,you want a little later frame.84 was alot better.

...blue

 

OLEBLUE70,

THANKS FOR THE ADVICE.AN '84 SHOULD BE EASIER TO FIND THAN AN '80.



JOEWRENCHHEAD

 

Hi oleblue70,
This is very nice of you. What is the best way to fill a hole in the body that will be seen from both sides. I have a 59 f250 that the previous owner had drilled (4) 3/8" holes in the side of the bed. (I'm guessing it was for a spare tire mount). Is it best to mig, tig, or braze a disc in each hole or is there a better way? Thank you in advance for your time.
Kenny

 

Are you Kenny from Texas?
anyway,you kinda got me on this one!
They drilled holes all the way through both sides of the bedside?I need more details on the metal,it ain't double walled?or is it?
Be glad to try and help you out but dont want to go into major details if the situation is different than what i write about.
Post again and we will go from there.
Does your truck have the Dana 24 t-case?
I have a '70 f250 4x4 i'm fixin up and i believe it has the exact same drivetrain(exept motor)as yours.
later,
...blue










1970 f250 4x4

 

No, I'm Kenny from New Jersey. I apologize for not giving more info. The truck is a 1959 F-250 4x4 with the 8' "styleside" bed. The bed sides are single wall construction so my repair will be visible (I hope not!!) from both inside and outside the bed. The metal was pretty thick on these trucks, and the holes are just slightly larger than 3/8" in diameter. I'm not sure yet what transfer case I have, but I know it has ports for running two power take offs in the neutral position. Thank you for your time and your reply.
Kenny

 

>No, I'm Kenny from New Jersey.
>I apologize for not giving
>more info. The truck is
>a 1959 F-250 4x4 with
>the 8' "styleside" bed. The
>bed sides are single wall
>construction so my repair will
>be visible (I hope not!!)
>from both inside and outside
>the bed. The metal was
>pretty thick on these trucks,
>and the holes are just
>slightly larger than 3/8" in
>diameter. I'm not sure yet
>what transfer case I have,
>but I know it has
>ports for running two power
>take offs in the neutral
>position. Thank you for your
>time and your reply.
>
>
> Kenny
Hey, Kenny.i asked if you was from texas cause i just bought some trim from a Kenny off of this site.
Anyway,
the only way i can think of for your needs is simple.the idea is simple!
You will have to measure the holes with a dail-caliper to get actual size and have them(or you)cut to fit.I dont know what else cause you want it smooth on both sides,i can understand that.
After they are cut to fit they should be tigged in for the fact that it can be welded in no hotter than needs to be.personly, i dont have a TIG but i do have a MIG and it is the next best thing for sheet metal.
If you are goin to do this yourself,just remember that when you weld the peices in to stop after the few spot welds you will have.i mean dont weld a bead ,every weld should be a nice flat spot weld.Only weld it on the back side cause the front can be smoothed with 36grit disc and a little filler .it wont take much.and the back will come out good to,just dont do much grinding for to long,old sheet metal or not it will warp with to much heat.
If you would have said 5\16 or smaller,that can be welded with a MIG but 3\8 is to much.
This is the only way i can think of.
now if you werent worried about the back side this would be easy! but i know you want it right.
I would to!
If you need any more help,e-mail me at oleblue70(No Email Addresses In Posts!),

would love to have your truck!














1970 f250 4x4

 

Hey oleblue70,
Thanks for the help!! I will be able to turn some precise sheet metal discs at work on our lathe. We also have a complete welding area with a tig. I can ask one of my friends at work to tig them in for me after hours. I really appreciate the info. This will probably be the worst of the bodywork for me. The body is very solid with the exception of the left and right rear bed panels, and a slight bow in the tailgate sheet metal (also single wall construction). Believe it or not this truck only has 17,000 original miles. It was owned by a fire dept. I picked it up a year ago for $2,500.00.
Thanks again, you've been very helpful.
Kenny

 

Good luck Kenny,
glad to help.You got a deal on the truck,i paid that for my 70 f250 4x4 that is not no time capsule!
i have spent the last 2 months straightening out the cab alone.
Remember,
these trucks (yours already)are goin to be really sought after and they are a investment for sure.
i hate all these damn 73 body style chevy boys who think their truck is god.I use trucks daily and mine is not stock but could care less whether it is slower than a new truck or some kid who has a 1\4mile motor in his street toy.Some may not be noslalgic enough of just plain ignorent,but we know,and thats all that matters.after all old Fords turn more heards than chevies and we know it!
The chevy guys are the ones uassually starin with the clint eastwood look not us,we are happy!
good luck with the ole girl.
...blue










1970 f250 4x4

 

98 F-150 XLT,245 70 yokahama AVS/ST's
prarie tan w/tan int.
K/N gen.II fipk
B/M electronic shift improver
COBRA 75 remote mount CB with weather alert
SNUGTOP LID/body color
4.6 litre V-8

about ten years ago I owned a 61 unibody short bed
ford. I cry everytime I think about the fact that
I traded it for a motorcycle.Stupid me!

 

oleblue70(No Email Addresses In Posts!)



1970 f250 4x4

 

Oleblu, Your '70 project sounds just like one of mine!

My first vehicle is a 1969 F250 4x4 with a 8' stepside box. It came originally with a 360, NP435, Dana 24, 4.10 Dana 44 and Dana 60 axles, manual steering, and power drum brakes. I bought it in 1987 as a incomplete mudracer project. The 360 was blown up (ex-government truck from Arizona, go figure) and far from complete. I put the truck back together (at stock height) while in high school with a big block/automatic and later rolled it over (a long story). In 1990, I tore it down to the bare frame rails and started re-rebuilding it. It got a Texas cab, doors, and front fenders. It still has the original Arizona box and rear fenders. This time it is absolutely perfect - better than when it left Henry's assembly line. Absolutely everything was disassembled, inspected and rebuilt/repaired by me. Literally, every single bolt on the truck was removed by me this time. I filled the 8 holes in the driver's side of the box and the 8 holes in the driver's side step (spare tire carrier?) with lead - this time I will be nicer to the truck, so I don't need all of the strength of welded holes. I did some testing, and autobody lead is surprisingly strong! I chamferred the holes in the box slightly to give the lead more surface area to adhere to. The areas surrounding the trim holes in the Texas replacement parts were all dinged down slightly and then leaded shut as well. I used a piece of an aluminum can with a magnet behind the holes to keep the lead from melting through - my adaptation of the old copper plate while welding trick. Right now, the truck needs one more coat of primer and a little bit more block sanding before it'd ready for the final paint. This time the bodywork is actually straight enough to be black, but it will be repainted red again. I will have a friend spray the sealer and top coats.

That friend did an AWESOME job spraying the 31,000 mile 1968 F100 (360, 4spd) that I restored for my girlfriend - 1997 Cayman Blue Metallic was a good color choice. One would never know there was 19 holes leaded shut from a previous camper shell.

Recently, I built up a 1979 F250 4x4 for my abusing/ snow plowing/ boneyard duty. It has Dana 60 axles front & rear and a nearly indestructible C-6/NP205 combo. The 400M has much more power after I rebuilt it. I installed a trac-loc differential in the front axle and shimmed the rear trac-loc really tight - that truck really pushes/pulls now! It has no problem handling the 8-1/2' Western pro-plow. That truck will keep me from abusing the 1969 F250 4x4 this time around.

Sorry for being so long-winded, but I think old Ford trucks are the best.

Art