Hey,Art you aint ramblin to me.i like these stories.
i honestly have never tried lead.so my mig works good enough for me.i just got done sealin the doors,hood,and cab for my 70' and used urethane.sprayin urethane sealer is a smooth operation, goes on smooth.i use a urethane primer/surfacer and thin it to 25percent for sealing.works great and serves to jobs.that stuff will make a body man out of anybody.i use a off brand called KIRKER,primer/surfacer is 36 bucks,hardner,20 and urethane reducer for 12!and it does two jobs.

i cant decide on what paint to use.i was considering single stage acrlyic enamel.but then maybe a base/clear metallic enamel.i am on a buget so i cant spend 500 bucks on paint.

it will be blue/white thats all i know.

Hey,got any trim for sale?or need any?

later,
...blue










1970 f250 4x4

 

I have a 1977 excellent 6 foot fleetside bed with roll bar holes in it how can i fill these in? Thanks

 

Hey Art,
I don't think you are ramblin either. I enjoyed your story too. I always liked the sound of using lead, but seems like a lost art form these days. I asked around 4 years ago when restoring my '79 F150 4x4, and got laughed at by most shops for even asking about lead. Is this something that a handy, amateur body person like myself can handle? And do you know of any books on this technique? I would definately like to try this on the rear bed panels on my '59.
Thanks,
Kenny

 

has anyone used the body solder from the eastwood company? eric

 

Hey guys, I'm back again. I had always heard about lead bodywork from old hotrodders like my dad, and that got me thinking... Lead bodywork is definately a lost art, but then again so are many other good things like stickwelding, shrinking metal, metal finishing without filler, etc.... I had done many soldering repairs before (radiators, electrical and other non-bodywork related) that I had become good at it. Then I thought to myself how different could lead bodywork be from plain old soldering?

I bought the basic leading kit from Easwood, and it included a red instruction book. That book was written from the "old school" (just like Easwood's metal bumping basics book which is also very good reading) and has excellent photos and instructions. As the book proves, there is no other body filler as tough and permanent as lead. Of course leading is more difficult, but then how much fun is re-doing bodywork a second time? I hate doing bodywork, but I hate poor bodywork (what most shops around here do) even more.

My recommendation to anyone contemplating it is to go ahead and do it - just read the book twice BEFORE firing up the torch. Follow the book's instructions, and with a little practice, you will be amazed at how awesome and fast leadworking really is. As with anything else, practice improves the skills. My younger brother mastered leading pretty quick with his 1965 F750 cab replacement project, and he's not a hardcore gearhead.

Art

 

I just thought I'd add some more - I think that bodyshops who laugh at people asking about lead do so because those shops are actually too lazy or stupid to do lead work. I think they don't look so ignorant if they laugh at the customer, because then the customer thinks he asked a stupid question. If those bodyshops had to guarantee their work forever (like how long I plan on keeping my Ford trucks), they might re-think their decision about leadwork. Remember that lead is not a healthy thing to work with either. And, we don't always get what we pay for, so I do my bodywork myself. That's my opinion...

Art

 

I agree they shouldn't laugh, although I didn't really take it as if they were ridiculing me. It was probably more likely that just nobody does lead any more and they were suprised that I asked. I can see where working with lead everyday could pose some health risks. When I do something I always like to go the "extra mile" rather than kick myself later. I definately hate to do things twice. I too plan on never getting rid of my Fords. Thanks! I'm going to check out those books you've mentioned. Other than health risks or being more difficult, are there any other drawbacks to using lead? Does lead too eventually fall out or crack?
Kenny

 

Kenny, lead will NEVER fall out or crack like plastic fillers (bondo) might. The bond of the lead to the base metal is far stronger than the bond that plastic fillers have. What really sold me on leading is how durable, moistureproof and permanent it really is (I live in the Midwest or "rustbelt"). Don't get me wrong, leading is not that much more difficult either. Also, when using a dust mask and being sure to wash your hands before eating, the health risk is no longer an issue - just most people don't want to wear a dust mask ... I use 3M dust masks. Try it out and you will see for yourself. I doubt you will have any questions after you read those Eastwood books. The only possible drawbacks I can think of are that leading is a little more expensive and requires additional tools. Also, leading is not as good for repairing large, lightly dented areas as metal finishing - that's why I recommended buying both the leading and metal bumping books from Eastwood. From my experience, Eastwood sells high quality products. Personally, I feel it all is well worth it in the long run ...

Art

 

Art, Thank you. You've been very helpful. I'm going to buy the books and then go for it! I'm going to take Oleblue70's sound advise and tig weld some discs in the holes, then I'll lead over that. I'll also use lead where I patch up the rear bed panels.
Kenny

 

Kenny, a bit of advice - If you weld a patch panel and want to lead over it, you must remove all of the scale from the weld. Scale is an oxide of metal that lead won't stick to. Sandblasting removes the scale, but be careful with thin flat panels as sandblasting can also warp them! I have filled holes up to 5/8" dia with lead alone.

Good luck,

Art

 

I bought a 1965 SWB F100 with the floor panels in the bed completely rusted out. The original owner thought he was saving the bed by installing plywood over the stock floor. Otherwise, the bed is in very good condition. There are no replacement floor panel manufacturer that I know of and no one makes a wooden floor kit for these trucks. I very much wanted to keep the truck as near to stock as possible. I have not been able to find a good replacement bed with a floor in it.
What would you recommend?

 

The only thing i can say is to cut out the orinal floor,i mean whats left of it and get it to where all you have is the inner bed sides and cross members(which probably need rebuilt to)and then if you still have the parts of the inner bed side that the orig floor was spot welded to and get a sheet of 12ga 4x8 and weld her in.what else can you do?i have done this before and it aint factory but it works.
also i think JC Whitney seels the corragated panels?

good luck,sorry i couldnt answer you better.
...blue











1970 f250 4x4

 

can I use lead to fill in holes on the bedsides of my 67 it has screw holes from hooks. If i can do I have to put behind it like you do when you use bondo? Thanks Eric

 

Hey Ya'll, just my two cent's worth but:

if you have a tight budget on paint, id look at DuPont Single Stage, it isnt the best but will leasta long while if you keep it waxed and washed. Dupont Base?clear is Cheaper for the base but the Clear is what is expensive then u have the reducer and catalyst.. I prefer to use Sikkens paint but Im not on a budget either.


I prefer to use Lead instead of Plastic Body Filler, Ive never tried to fill a actual Hole with lead but ive welded a flat panel behind and then filled with lead, its a challenge to work with but fun! Kind of like Smearing butter. you do have to have Vixen Files to work it but they are avaliable from Eastwood. Just one more thing about lead, before you start working it, check the metal.. to see if it goes to or away from the heat. if it shrinks away u'll have to use Bondo or Fiberglass (Good for fillingi n qtr panels and Rust holes)

Good Luck, If ican answer Any ones Question Post or Email ForeStarRacing(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

Hey art,

Jus wanna say something bout the comment on the "laughing" Im in the middle of Ky, and have worked in body repair all my life, and own a Shop, When i first got started, this GUy came up and wanted his 76 restored.. For about 2000 dollars.. That wouldnt even touch our paint job, said he wanted leadwork done No bondo, and a whole list of other things done. Anyway He started to get upset at the price and cussed us up one side and down the other then left so there is all kinds of people that want thigns done. On the other hand, the first thing I learned to do was Lead work, and the English Wheel, then Body panel Replacment and then Painting. I am Very proud that i can do leadwork and use the english Wheel. The Schools today, Do NOT teach leadwork, or The english wheel, I think that Wyoming Tech is about the only one who does anymore. We hired some kids from Tech school and they couldnt do anything and were always questioning my two Technicians... but i suppose you have to start somewhere right? I did. I wish more people were able to do GOOD bodywork.

I have restored cars for the last few years and unless i HAVE to i wont use Plastic Filler.


GoodLuckAll!

For any questions email me: FOreStarRacing(No Email Addresses In Posts!)