I'm thinking of cutting back around some rust hoes in a front fender on my '82, and I thought about filling them from the inside with fiberglass and sanding the outside flush...

Is that a lasting repair, or should I trash the fender and buy a new panel to begin with?

I also thought about putting a layer of 'glass on the insides of the fenders anyway, at least in the rust-prone areas. It seems that around the wheel cutouts they tend to get the most damage, and I thought a layer of resin would possibly head that off.

Ideas?

 

If you have play in the hinges (and drivers doors are notorious for it!) you may want to shop for a "Hinge Repair Kit" or alternately replace the entire hinge, possibly both top and bottom.

On aligning doors -

What I have always done is to support the door with a hydraulic jack at the outer end. This allows for fine adjustments.

Usually, the door can be opened farther if one of the pins are driven out of the little bar that limits how far they open. With the door swung fully open, and supported at the end, the door can be moved around a small amount at a time. In general, I'll take loose two bolts on one hinge and slightly loosen a third, then loosen up the bolts on the other hinge. Which one I focus on depends on where the damage seems to be. But usually the bottom hinge is the culprit.


~ Wolf

 

One adjusts the angle of the door from the front to the rear, and this is affected by the bolts that go into the body of the truck.

The OTHER adjustment is how far in or out from the door seals/weatherstrip the door is both at the top and the bottom. Those adjustments are made to the bolts that go into the door through the hinges. Try working with them one at a time, until the door matches up with the skin of the cab evenly. Bring one out, check it, and see if more tweaking is needed.

~ Again, check for play in the hinges. It's pointless to compensate for bad bushings in the hinges....


~ Wolf

 

It could be caused by someone before you installing a pair of front quarterpanels/fenders. If they were not lined up right, but the doors were aligned TO them, then the rear edge won't match.

I would line up the back edges of the doors, and look for the reason why the fenders don't line up quite right.

It's probably because of some missing bolts!


~ Wolf

 

I only replace metal with metal.Not being a smart***.I wont do any of the layer stuff.I but weld in new sheetmetal or replace the peice.Fenders for a '82 should be cheap new.I found a set of rust free ones this summer for a guy after a week of lookin'.Wish i could do that for the old trucks

Do it once,do it right,or not at all.




'66 F250 blue/white(352)
'70 F250 blue/white(351w)
'76 F350 dually red(390-4v)
'79 F150 daily driver(302)

 

HI!
I need help finding aftermarket parts!
I have a `70 F-100, the rockers are rusted at the corners where they curve up and connect to the inner door post. My search for rockers has only yielded the the horizontal portion of the rocker. Any idea where I can find these panels?
Your help is appreciated.
Thanks.

 

Yeah, but if I replace that sucker with another one (and I think the one on the drivers side already has been) I'm thinkin' that I want it to STAY replaced, ya know?

And if a layer of glass or resin will stay put, then it seams to me it will be sealed from the inside for all time...

Especially if the fender is bare metal in that area to begin with. Where pebbles, sand, and small rocks might chip the inside and start a rust spot, I think fiberglass might stay put for a while. I dunno how well undercoatings hold up, but this is along the same lines, except smoother so that no water can be trapped...

Ideas?

 

bobb,
Sorry i didn't reply earlier.Are your spots high or low?A common problem is over sanding and in your case that left three distinct waves.
The thing to do is to fix your problem area then prime it.After the primer dries get a rattle can of cheap paint(i use flat black) and mist it on the panel.This is called a guide coat.
It never lies and will clearly show you the problems you have long before final sealer and or paint.Sand the guide coat with 320 grit wet or dry.
I use EverCoat light weight filler and 2-part glazing putty.Dont use that laquer based crap in a tube.It shrinks and is weak.I also use urethane primer/surfacer only.I am not sying mix up a gun full everytime you want to cover some work,but when you know you got it right,shoot some good urethane primer on it.Seals out the weather also.Cheap laquer primer is a sponge.So is body filler.I see people runnin down the road with plastic showin.That is a waste of work.It draws in moisture.

Grey Wolf,
Whatever works for you is fine.I just go by the basic rules to proper work.I am not perfect by any means,but there is no short cuts to quality.And if i'm doing the work there wont be none.
Fiberglass/,epoxys,ect all works,just make sure you have removed all dirt,salt,moisture and by all means seal it up with some good 3M undercoat on the back side.Make do with what you got.Isn't that what we all do

Take care guys~

...oleblue...







'66 F250 blue/white(352)
'70 F250 4x4 blue/white(351w)
'76 F350 dually red(390-4v)
'79 F150 daily driver(302)

 

It isn't about salvage!

What I'm thinking about is longevity.

And a direct bond to the metal is essential....

No layers between to eventually fail and allow moisture creep into them, understand?

A solid seal, excluding all of the corrosives from the start...

It wouldn't have to even be very thick, and it also occurs to me that if a flexible material were used it would last even longer.


What the hell would a new panel cost anyway? $50.oo?

I'm looking at the long term. A few extra bux spent now could pay for itself many times over.

The question is how to do it.

I know a lot of people are paranoid of working with something new, but it's easy. Heck, I just jumped right in as always and had immediate good results. (rebuilt a sailboard that nailed some rocks)

You'd be suprised, the stuff has few tricks to it.

And it loves metal...

I started a new thread/discussion to explore this idea

 

Ok Old Blue, I needs some tips on welding if you could help me. My driver side floor pan is rusted out. Under the pedals is all rust and going to down the rocker panel which is all rusted out and not even connected to the floor anymore. i am wondering the best way to weld it back together. I am just learning how to weld so all the help will be good. Should i buy a new floor pan and weld that in, or should i get some metal and patch up the floor? But how would i do that? Cut away the rusted metal and weld to the good metal? Do one big sheet or peice together small sheets?

1987 F150 2wd, 4.9L, 4 spd manual
3" suspension, 3" body lift with 31's
168,000 and counting

 

Peicing it together depends on how good overall the entire pan is.
The two ways to weld in a new pan are:
Lap it in.Meaning to cut out entire pan leaving 1 inch or so all the way around.Then fit new pan on top,and weld in.
The proper(hard) way is to butt weld it in,then grind all welds,following with some seam sealer for a factory new job.
I have welded in new pans,and have cut out rust and used 3/16 rivits with 22ga galvinized.Do you want show?,or just 10 years?Or 20 years?There are trucks out there with licence plates,stop signs,ect for patches.I wouldnt do a cut rate job but you need to decide if you want to invest the time,money to do it right.
You need a mig welder.500 at the least to be ready to weld,body hammers,dolleys,air supply with a cut off wheel,talent with working sheetmetal.
It's up to you.
My email is oleblue70@hotmail if you want to talk further.
Later~










'66 F250 blue/white(352)
'70 F250 4x4 blue/white(351w)
'76 F350 dually red(390-4v)
'79 F150 daily driver(302)

 

is it posiibile to weld new metal on the ridge in the insied of the fenders, cause mine are rusted away,
just let me know

 

Wow, what a great offer! Here's my story:

I bought a 1963 Ford F100 that had a series of engine problems. Thanks to this board, I rebuilt the I6 223, replaced the radiator and brakes.

Now

I want to try some body repair. I have big dents on both front fenders, and a small dent on the driver door. I was thinking about fixing the dents in the fenders with the weld in panels. I have never welded before, but I've always wanted to learn.

What I was wondering:

Oxy-Acetylene, or MIG? I have heard both can do the job, and that Oxy-Acetylene is earier to learn, but I will be practicing with either for some time before moving to my truck, either way.

Should I take the panels off, and reapir them off of the truck, or cut them and reapir them while still on.

Should I just forget the whole idea, and try to find good whole panels that I could just bolt on.

Any help would be really appreciated.

Thanks

Wes









>if anybody needs any basic tips or questions on metalworking
>or using plastic filler properaly,wire welding,and general,
>i might be able to answer you.i am experienced in these
>feilds.
>i leave painting to my freind,he is way better than me on
>metalics.
>
>i am knee deep in "re" doin' my 70 f2504x4.....blue

 

 

Hello.

I am in the process of removing rusted body panels on my truck, cab corners, upper rear wheel arches and lower rear bed corners. I have access to plasma cutter, grinders and any other metal cutting equipment, What is the best way to remove old panels without wrecking the edge that is needed for welding in the new panels?


1977 F150.