hey ole blue. if you are on a budget of 500 bucks and want to use basecoat/clear try ppg omni. Its ppg's budget line, and doesn't look too bad. I don't like the clear for it though, looks nice but kind a thin. I usually use marhyde clear instead. i think omni base runs between 65.00-130.00 a gallon depending on color, and the multi-purpose marhyde clear like 100.00 a gallon with a hardener. Not for a show winner but not bad for a daily driver. Spraying metallics in a basecoat is a piece of cake, and clear goes on just like if you were spraying a regular solid single stage. Plus with the clear the finish has a deeper look to it, and easier to fix little mistakes you might have when wetsanding and buffing. The only thing bad about the omni is that its not real great if you are blending for a color match, and some colors don't cover well, and the smell of it will kill the neighbors cat. The cavalier on my website was painted with the budget omni and the marhyde clear.

 

If your going to spend 100 bucks for the marhyde clear why not buy Nason? its a better brand, and is slightly less.

All brands have certain colors that do not want to cover. That is why there is tintable primer, and you shoot a "like" color onto the panel first, to help blend it in.

If the clear is a little thin, then I would spray more coats, I prefer a thinner clear myself. I think it lays out better (less orange peel).



Nason is about the same cost as Omni btw. Its the offbrand of DuPont. Depends on which brand you want to go with.

 

Yeah I know but not every primer is tintable, and I spray a sealer before painting. I have had good results with omni for cheaper paint jobs, so I stick with it. I've used Limco before and didn't like it at all. It all depends on what your comfortable with.

 

Yes you can tint all primers. at least all that I have used. it just isnt suggested by the mfr.

even if you dont tint the primer you can still spray it with a "like" color first.

 

I've done that before spray with a like color when I worked in shops because we had left over paint from previous jobs but if you don't have any I don't hassle with it unless its a pretty expensive color like red. If I see the color covers bad I will take rattle can paint and get the color close like under the hood or something, but don't do it on the outside cause could have compatability problems. I usually stick fairly close to the manufacture of the paints recommendations, they should know there paint. But I will mix products between manufacturers if I've done it before and it doesn't cause problems. Not all primers are designed to be tinted. If they are they will say in the product sheet what percentage of color can be added. And yes every paint has colors that cover bad. Even like chromabase and thats pretty expensive paint. The more expensive paint usually color matches better because they usually have more mixing colors then the cheaper lines.

 

I was thinking about trying to fix my cab on the top left, where it curves around in the front, but after listening to all og yall, I'm not sure now. Don't think I know what I'm doing. Help! 1990 f150

 

This may of been the wrong way to fill small holes,but it worked graet for me. I removed a set of aftermarket side mirrors from a 65 that had left 4 holes about 5/16 in diameter. I then cleaned around surface and sanded around area. Also sanded behind hole on the inside of door.Took and cut a 1 in piece of fine screen and put on the back side of hole, then filled holes with jb weld. Applied it with a metal scraped in order to apply enough pressure to push the jb weld thru screen,alowed to dry overnight and with minimal sanding and some spot filler the holes the holes were gone. We then put por on the inside of doors and painted the repairs. This was done 5 yrs ago and still looks perfect. (worked for me)

 

Hello!

I have a 1986 f150, and I want to put larger tires on it, but I have to cut the fenders at least 2" for the tires to fit.

my question is this? I need to now the whole scoop from start to finish, on how to do this.the best way to cut the fenders, and is there any bobywork to be done after doing so! So I can install flares. and aslo do i replace the wheel well after cutting fender. This is all new to me.

Thanks, Al

 

I just used the nason clear on a trunklid and spoiler I painted because the local supplier didn't stock the marhyde clear any more and recommended the nason. It wasn't bad, layed out nice, just dried really fast, even for the small areas I was painting. I had to rush to get it on without any dry areas, but I was given the fast activator. I also used the Western select clear because that is what the guy bought. He bought limco basecoat, and it was very transparent. It was pretty close in color and had a good color blend, but I had to put about 6 coats of it on primed areas before they started to cover. The cheaper bases that I have used pretty much cover bad in most colors, so you should defignately try to use a sealer or primer close in color to the base you are spraying or you will be spraying forever. In contrast the deltron base I used before that only took two coats and the primer was pretty much covered even though it was a light grey and I was spraying a dark pearl blue, but for his color it was $80 a pint, so take your pick. I was kinda leary using the western clear because I used some western paint many years ago, a single stage enamel and didn't like it at all. But the Western clear layed out very nice also. The cheaper clears I have used so far have all been good. If I had pictures I'd put them up, but unfortunately found out when I went to develop them, the shutter stopped working on my camera, so they didn't turn out. The guy I painted the car for with the Limco base and Western clear might also have me paint his jeep now, so if he comes back around I might be able to get a completed picture of his car.

 

This car I used Limco basecoat with Western select clear on the hood and fenders.