Blue, and Willie, Both LMC truck and Mac's Antique Auto PArts have the Replacement Bed floors along with the bedwood Kits.
Any questions email me, ForeStarRacing(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

Eric, Dont use bondo to fill holes, you can weld the holes up (if ur a good welder) you can use lead, you can Fiberglass behind them Then use plastic Filler, or Weld a metal plate behind the hole and use lead or bondo. Good luck! any other questions you can email me:

ForeStarRacing(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

Scott

73 F350
79 f600
68 GTO
69 Mustang
93 Bronco XLT
and others.

 

>Blue, and Willie, Both LMC
>truck and Mac's Antique Auto
>PArts have the Replacement Bed
>floors along with the bedwood
>Kits.
>Any questions email me, ForeStarRacing(No Email Addresses In Posts!)


As far as I know, I don't think anyone make a wood kit or complete metal floor panels for a short wide bed. I've checked with LMC and Mac's.

 

I tried to find lead at the eastwood site, but they refer to "Body Solder" is this the same thing that you are talking about here?

 

Hi, body solder and lead are one in the same. John

 

I have a 72 ford truck and I'm planning on repainting it this summer. I would like to fill the body seams at the top of the cab and at the very back of the bed. They have seam sealer in it right now that was from the factory. What would be the best way of filling these seams. I have thought about fiberglass body filler, but will it crack out over time.

 

Hi, if you get all the paint and seam sealer out and the seams are less than 1/4 inch deep then body filler would work if they are deeper than that I would have them leaded in to guard against filler pop. John

 

okay, I'll ask- If you'll forgive asking what may be an overly basic question. I've always been an engine man and never had to even think about bodywork, so I am helpless as to where to start. The drivers door on my 1971 F100 doesn't open very well. It has about a hlf inch gap at the back edge and rubs the fender in the front. Where and how do I adjust this? Should I be putting shims under the hinge or is there some adjustment inside the door panel? I want to fix it before I wreck the front of the door or the back of the fender. Thanx DF

 

Dinosaurfan, there is an adjustment on the hinges where they bolt to the cab. You have to loosen the bolts that hold the hinges to the cab and slide the door towards the back of the truck keep an eye on the height as you don't want to have to play with that adjustment too. John

 

John, my hinges fit into a small pocket on the door post, loosening these bolts all the way lets the door off the truck, taking the hinge with it. I don't see any place to adjust this. Whats up? 1971 F100, driver's side. DF

 

Do you have front body damage?Also,can you lift the door up when the bolts are tight?
There is alot of adjustment were John told you.You will have to remove the center bolts deep inside the pocket.(Soak first for two days with favorite juice),then scribe a line as to where your door is now.Now,loosin the bolts,bottom to top.When the door is shut the geometry is weird so play with it and it will change the relationship between the fender and door while it is being opened.And when thats right adjust door striker to make body lines line up or to make door shut properly.
If the striker alone is loos or out of adjustment it will change the gap in front in one area or another.So check that too.
Good luck,and the truck in my sig line is alomost complete from a complete tear down.Those doors can be a pain but try those things.Also remember to check the hinges for extreme wear.Some wear is normal and most have that.
...blue
Hi John


1970 F250 Sport Custom 4x4.351W,DuraSpark,N.P.435,Dana24,Dana's on both ends,4.10:1's,36X9.00 ag Kings,blue/white.Big truck,big fun.

 

As far as I can tell, the body is undamaged. What am I missing here? How do these bolts provide adjustment? It seems they just bolt the hinge on. Do I loosen just the bolts deep in the hinge pocket, and leave the other four bolts tight? Door has very little if any play when bolts are tight. DF

 

DF,
There is play after you loosen the bolts.The inside ones need to come out to get the play.Beleive me if anybody.I just hung two doors on my newly painted truck two weeks ago that were off another truck.I had to move them around abit.The holes in the hinges should be slightly slotted.
Also,
When the door is shut,is the door contour and fender contour match?If not let me know what is off as in contours and i can tell you what needs to be moved where.
...blue


1970 F250 Sport Custom 4x4.351W,DuraSpark,N.P.435,Dana24,Dana diffs,4.10:1's,36x9.00 CordovonPower Kings,Blue/white.---oleblue---

 

Blue, I removed the center bolts completely and the door won't move at all. It matches the body lines,and fits flush with the fender and cab, but it is too far forward, scraping on the fender when I open it. The holes the bolts came out of are round. I don't understand this at all. I am off to bible study, will try again when I return this evening, at about 8:30. DF

 

Dinosaurfan, you have to loosen all the bolts in the front of the hinge (where it meets the cab) don't take them out just loosen them and slide the door back. It might work better if you do one hinge at a time start with the top one and the door will drop which will bring it back then do the bottom and raise the door and it should be close to where you want. You just have to play with the adjustments but the bolts in the front of the hinge are what you want to move. John
Oo hi blue haven't heard from you in a while, how ya been?