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Remote Starter / Glow plug issue

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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 08:23 PM
  #16  
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Just for giggles I looked up a tech sheet.
12 VOLT CONSTANT YELLOW (+) and LIGHT GREEN/PURPLE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER DARK GREEN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 RED/LIGHT GREEN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 RED/BLACK (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 GRAY/YELLOW (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 DARK/BLUE/LIGHT GREEN (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) @ HEADLIGHT Switch or VSM, GREEN Plug, Pin 2, See NOTE *1
POWER LOCK PINK/YELLOW (TYPE C) See NOTE *2 in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, @ DOOR HARNESS
POWER UNLOCK PINK/LIGHT GREEN (TYPE C) See NOTE *2 in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, @ DOOR HARNESS
LOCK MOTOR WIRE PINK/BLACK (TYPE C) in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, @ DOOR HARNESS
DOOR TRIGGER Use DOMELIGHT Supervison wire
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION BLACK/LIGHT BLUE (+) @ PASSENGER KICK PANEL or Cluster Blue Plug, Pin 26
TRUNK RELEASE N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN DARK BLUE (-) @ HORN SWITCH or VSM, GREEN Plug, Pin 6, See NOTE *1
TACH See NOTE *3
WAIT TO START LIGHT See NOTE *4
BRAKE LIGHT GREEN (+) @ SWITCH above BRAKE PEDAL
FACTORY ALARM DISARM N/A
ANTI-THEFT N/A
NOTES
NOTE *1 The VSM (Vehicle Security Module) is located to the RIGHT of the GAS Pedal, just above the Transmission hump and below the Radio. the VSM is NOT Accessible from the Radio opening.


NOTE *2 Vehicles WITHOUT a FACTORY KEYLESS Entry Remote Control are a TYPE "C" Door Locking System. Vehicles WITH a FACTORY KEYLESS Entry Remote Control are a TYPE "B" Door Locking System and the LOCK wire is a WHITE/RED (TYPE B) and the UNLOCK is a BLACK/WHITE TYPE B), BOTH are located in the Drivers Kick Panel, at the Door Harness.


NOTE *3 On GAS Engines the TACH wire is any wire that is NOT: RED/LIGHT GREEN or RED/YELLOW at any IGNITION COIL or FUEL-INJECTOR. On DIESEL Engines the TACH wire is a LIGHT GREEN/WHITE wire in a 5-Pin Harness held up with WHITE tape located behind the Parking Brake Release.


NOTE *4 On this vehicle you can not use the WAIT TO START wire, you must use the WAIT TO START TIMER Programming in your Installation manual.
It looks to me like he might need to power the second Accy and Ign wire to get it act like he wants. I haven't done a diesel though.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 08:37 PM
  #17  
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ReAX, you are the man. I have printed out this chart and will compare it to what I have wired. Thanks a ton.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 09:06 PM
  #18  
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Most alarms have an acc wire and an ign wire, then there is a third wire that is switchable between second acc and second ign. If you have a vehicle with two acc AND two ign, you now have a problem. Relays can be used to overcome this problem though.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 09:17 PM
  #19  
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As long as everything else is working, i.e. heater coming on engine running etc, the GP light not coming on is really a non issue. I couldn't guarantee that it would come on regardless. I does on my truck with remote start, but I let someone else do it. I did one remote start and wouldn't do another. The guy that did mine is very good, I was impressed. Didn't take him any time at all.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 12:01 PM
  #20  
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I guess it boils down to the " If a tree fall in the forest and no one is there to hear it, did it make noise" If you use the remote start and are not in the truck (if you are then why have remote start) and the truck starts fine and does what it is supposed to do what does it matter if the WTS light is on or not. The light is there to remind the operator to delay cranking the engine, if there is no operator in the truck to remind then it does not need to be on. Look at the bright side, the WTS bulb should last twice as long.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 03:20 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by truckeemtnfords
Look at the bright side, the WTS bulb should last twice as long.


I just wanted to make sure that the GP's were in fact, working even though the WTS light was not illuminating.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 03:11 PM
  #22  
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If your truck started in the mid teens after sitting a few days your glow plugs were most definitely working.

I do have to admit, you have me curious now. I'll have to check to see what gauge lights come on in my truck when I remote start it.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 05:32 PM
  #23  
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To answer the question the only thing I can see feeding that fuse is the DB/LG wire from the ignition switch. It is the only thing that comes out of the fuse box according the the diagram. So it must only power up somethings in the cluster.

I'm curious too Beerstalker if yours comes on.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 05:43 PM
  #24  
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This weekend I plan to crawl under the hood and attempt to locate the glow plugs. I'm thinking they should probably have a boot or something on the top where the are plugged in, correct? I'm thinking I should be able to stick my volt meter in there just to make sure I have power to them.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 05:45 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by aldridgec
To answer the question the only thing I can see feeding that fuse is the DB/LG wire from the ignition switch. It is the only thing that comes out of the fuse box according the the diagram. So it must only power up somethings in the cluster.
According to the owners manual, fuse 33 is for the wipers and radio (I believe that was all) which do not work under remote start conditions until I insert the key and turn it to the on position. As it's a 15 amp fuse, would it actually be directly powering the items or would it be sending power to a relay to power them?
 
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