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Remote Starter / Glow plug issue

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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 08:10 AM
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Remote Starter / Glow plug issue

After the recommendations that I found on these forums, I purchased an AutoStart AS-3472TW remote starter for my truck from Travis @ www.kcautosound.com. Prior to purchasing the unit, I had several question for Travis that he answered via email, usually within a few hours. I purchased the unit prewired for my truck, which was a great help. I followed his installation instructions to the letter. From the outword appearance, all works correctly. I push the lock button, the doors lock. I press the unlock button, the doors unlock. I press the start button and the truck starts.

Here's the issue that I am having: My truck sat outside for a couple of days with the temps in the mid 10's. Wanting to make sure that the time delay that is preset for the glow plugs is long enough, I sat in the truck and pressed the start button. All of the typical warning lights in the instrument cluster came on like normal, but not the glow plug indicator / wait to start light. After waiting approx 15 seconds, the truck started up with out any other problems. I shut the truck down and restarted it the normal way with the key. I advanced the key to the on position all of the indicator lights including the glow plug indicator came on. I turned the truck off and restarted with the remote start, still no glow plug indicator. I have sent Travis a couple of emails over the last week with no reply. Would you have any suggestions?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 08:34 AM
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And this is why im not a believer in people doing their own remote start units.... Anywho, what did you use to connect the wires? And what do you mean by prewired, what exactly did he do to the unit before he shipped it?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Futuresweets-10
what do you mean by prewired, what exactly did he do to the unit before he shipped it?
All of the unnecessary wires were removed. The needed wires were bundled per attachment point. Meaning, the wires that went to locks were bundled together, the wires that spliced into the separate relays in the back of the fuse panel were bundled per relay. It really made for an easy installation. When I attached each wire, I removed about one inch if insulation, pulled the wire strands apart, inserted the wire to be spliced in and twisted the strands back together. Per my handy voltage meter, all splices were good and work appropriately.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 11:15 AM
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I would check and see if there is voltage on fuses 33 and 45 in the CJB. with the remote starte. These power the instrument cluster and might have an effect on the GP ind. I suspect the GP's are working since A) the truck started B) the GPCM get's power from the PCM power relay and battery.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by aldridgec
I would check and see if there is voltage on fuses 33 and 45 in the CJB. with the remote start.
Chris, thanks for your thoughts. I was able to confirm that fuse 33 (15 amp) does not have power under remote start conditions while fuse 45 (10 amp) does. When starting with the key, fuse 33 does have power with the key in the run position and the GP indicator is on. I'm going to research what fuse 33 actually controls. Your thoughts?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by H2oSprayer
All of the unnecessary wires were removed. The needed wires were bundled per attachment point. Meaning, the wires that went to locks were bundled together, the wires that spliced into the separate relays in the back of the fuse panel were bundled per relay. It really made for an easy installation. When I attached each wire, I removed about one inch if insulation, pulled the wire strands apart, inserted the wire to be spliced in and twisted the strands back together. Per my handy voltage meter, all splices were good and work appropriately.
If you wired like that and didnt use solder YOU WILL have problems down the road. No questions about it.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 02:21 PM
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there are two ignition wires in these trucks and both should be connected. It will start and run fine with only one, and I suspect this is why your glow plug light isnt coming on.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Futuresweets-10
If you wired like that and didnt use solder YOU WILL have problems down the road. No questions about it.
My intentions are to dive back in there in a few weeks when it is a bit warmer and I have verified that everything is working correctly and solder the connections for a long lasting, trouble free connection.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Futuresweets-10
there are two ignition wires in these trucks and both should be connected. It will start and run fine with only one, and I suspect this is why your glow plug light isnt coming on.
I believe that I have them both attached. Per the instructions, I have attached the pink wire from the starter module to the red with green stripe ignition wire (12 volts when key is on continues when engine is cranking) and I have attached the orange wire (accessories, ie: heater blower motor, wipers etc) from the module to the red wire with black stripe (12 volts when key is on, voltage drops when engine is cranking). These two wires were found in the same harness with a gray plug.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 04:09 PM
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My question is- in that temp the truck should have needed the help of the GP's to start. Did it start up okay, or did it struggle, crank for a long time, cough and wheeze, smoke, etc? If it started up okay you're probably just fine.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by superduty4x4
My question is- in that temp the truck should have needed the help of the GP's to start. Did it start up okay, or did it struggle, crank for a long time, cough and wheeze, smoke, etc? If it started up okay you're probably just fine.
It started normally. No extended cranking, smoke or struggling. I initially was thinking that the GP were working, just no power to the power to the GP indicator.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 04:42 PM
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On most vehicles, there are 2 ignition wires and two Accy wires. For some reason, I believe powering one ignition wire will let the engine crank. Powering only one of the accy wires will mean either the radio or heater fan may not come on. I believe what futuresweets meant was the two ignition and two Accy wires, not just two wires under the column.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by H2oSprayer
It started normally. No extended cranking, smoke or struggling. I initially was thinking that the GP were working, just no power to the power to the GP indicator.
Then honestly, I wouldn't worry about it. To put your mind at ease (if you can on the 6.0... not sure how it works on those new-fangled fancy motors ) verify that the glow plugs are getting powered up when you hit the button on your remote start.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ReAX
On most vehicles, there are 2 ignition wires and two Accy wires. For some reason, I believe powering one ignition wire will let the engine crank. Powering only one of the accy wires will mean either the radio or heater fan may not come on. I believe what futuresweets meant was the two ignition and two Accy wires, not just two wires under the column.

I actually meant two acc. wires, not ignition, although, some vehicles do have two of each. If I remember correct these trucks only have one ign. but I am absolutly positive there are two acc wires.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 07:39 PM
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That could be as I believe there was only one wire (the orange one) for acc's.
 
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