That would be easy enough to do. Just run another length of hose from the trap back up. Just put both barbed fittings on the same side.

 

How do you have it connected back at the intake?

 

Great job Chris I really like it.

 

Just run the outlet hose from the filter trap back to the OEM inlet in the air intake (the piece that I replaced with the 4" SS tubing).

 

Even leaving it the way it is, if fluid were to back up in the catch can enough to cover the outlet you could still have a blockage/freezing problem. The way he designed it though, it would take a LOT of fluid to do that, and I'd think that if enough fluid were trapped in there to block the lower port there would be bigger fish to fry than a blocked/frozen CCV.

 

i used one of these Tractor Supply Company - Strainer 3/4 Polypropylene 50M

picture mounted


showing mesh strainer


as of now, i have it routed back into the intake, specifically i put a barb in the end of the air filter and the fumes enter there. i hoped that being upsteam of the fresh air coming would help to kinda diffuse the fumes. i have noticed some buildup of residue around the boots, but nothing like it was. it may be due to the fact that my hose doesn't go up and over the brake booster first. i remember gene posting that it was bad for it to do that, and that the best scenario would be to got straight down. i have been collecting a decent amount of oil in the trap. maybe an ounce between oil changes. i couldn't stand the fumes even though my original setup vented near the tailpipe. slightest breeze and i could smell them in the cab. i tried running the hose just back to the engine bay, but that sucked even worse. if i turned on the a/c the fumes went directly into the cab, and i figured i'd rather not asphyxiate myself. i may put some scotchbrite inside the mesh. it's hard to tell in the picture, but since it is a strainer for chemicals, the intake is on the left, which actually comes into the trap in the center (inside the screen you see in the picture). the way the bottom screws on, it has a raised place that fits inside the bottom of the screen, thus forcing the fumes through the screen before it can exit the other side.

 

That's a neat little bugger Kevin! I wonder how bad the fumes coming out would be w/o rerouting to the intake (don't want to go that route).

 

well i ran it for a day with it just exiting the trap, and the fumes bugged the crap out of me. i use syn rotella, and it does stink worse than the dino. i plan to switch to schaeffers cause others have said it didn't smell as bad. now that i have a trap, i may go back to the exit at the tailpipe, just keeping the hose from the trap back on a steady decline.

 

UPDATE:

I took your guy's advice and reinstalled the bracket for the engine harness. I did cut it down for a cleaner look.

Before:


After:

 

i like the filter design ill have to copy that. what about a charcol filter in the copper scrubbers to absorb some of the odor.

 

Interesting thought. Like the charcoal filters for a fish tank?

 

How far would you say too far to run the exit line?
Would hard piping it do away with the frozen line after the filter be an option?

I don't know if that's a stupid idea but could cpcv be used to exit the filter?

 

Be careful with this modification like i said you dont want to restrict this line.I have been running this draft tube to underside of driver door only smell it when window is down with the truck at an Idle. If the catch can is getting full of oil then you are having a real problem going on.

 

they have charcol pad filters its a mesh filled with charcol that u can get a 3 inch round diameter i know that