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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Head studs with heads on?

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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 08:21 PM
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Head studs with heads on?

Ive got the vc's off to diagnose my knock (thinks it was couple injectors not seated right) and figured might as well do studs while i am in there if they aren't too hard. WHat all is involved? Do i just pull an old one put in new and repeat or do heads need to come off?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 08:24 PM
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Yes it can be done but the cab needs to be tilted to the side to get a few in. Remove one bolt install stud and torque. i am not sure though if you torque them all the way in only to the first stage then torque them the rest of the way once they are all installed.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 08:56 PM
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How tough is the cab? Just loosen mounts on that side and jack up a couple inches?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 09:30 PM
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From: Ft Scott
Originally Posted by tjbeggs
Yes it can be done but the cab needs to be tilted to the side to get a few in. Remove one bolt install stud and torque. i am not sure though if you torque them all the way in only to the first stage then torque them the rest of the way once they are all installed.
That's how I did it Tim, I replaced then one at a time and torqued them to 105 ft/lb for the 1st step and then raised it to 120 and 135 following the regular torque sequence

 
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 07:46 AM
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so i should be able to do them in a couple hours with out much trouble?
mule- why did you use different torque numbers than the picture calls for?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 01:11 PM
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I can't for the life of me remember what I have my heads torqued down to with my ARP's. I wanna say 150ft. lbs but I'd have to call David and ask him

Cowboy Steve
 
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 10:32 PM
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Wes- i'm going to guess that the picture is for the stock head bolts and i would assume that they dont get as much torque, I think that ARP says to torque theirs to 120 lb's
 
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 03:56 AM
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i would not do them one at a time, i would back them all off till there is only a couple foot lbs of torque then install the studs one at a time and then torque them all at the same in increments. as long as you don't break the gasket seal you should be just fine.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 884x4broncoII
i would not do them one at a time, i would back them all off till there is only a couple foot lbs of torque then install the studs one at a time and then torque them all at the same in increments. as long as you don't break the gasket seal you should be just fine.
One at a time is the procedure. It has worked hundred's of times. No worries doing it that way.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:18 AM
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hey man, glad to hear your knock wasnt too serious. good luck with the head studs! i wish i had enough ponies pumping and boost to need them! it would be nice to be in need of head studs lol.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 02:07 PM
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i guess im more used to working with cars with aluminum heads than big cast iron heads that probably outweigh an 4 cyl motor lol. i would just be worried about warping and or cracking a head taking an head bolt completely out with the others still torqued.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 02:23 PM
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What more is involved in taking the heads off and replacing the gaskets while there? Or is that pointless to do. Are there Aftermarket head gaskets that are better than stock that would be a wise choice to put in? It will be a while before I have to worry about studs but I just want to know what im in for.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 02:44 PM
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Factory ford gaskets are not to bad themselves. I believe Luke made 500+rwhp on stock studs and stock gaskets. I think he's runnin stock gaskets now in his new motor that is just plain nasty!!!

40psi is the limit for factory bolts I believe. Anything over that and you'll lift the heads and blow the gaskets. I've pulled the heads off my truck with the motor in the truck and it was a pain in the ****. Much easier to do it by yankin the motor or liftin the cab, either way it requires some work. Im runnin Cometics and ARP's now and I love the combo

*on edit*- if your tryin to do ARP's and gaskets I highly doubt that you will get the heads on the motor without liftin the cab or yankin the motor itself. Their wont be enough room to get the heads over the studs and drop them on the block

Tim's way of droppin the studs in works flawlessly. Many have done it and I have never heard of there being any problems

Cowboy Steve
 
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