When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I haven't bought my truck yet, im still runnin the '86 for now. However, i know when i get a PSD, i know i will be PMSing. I allready have a list of mods to do to it. Appearently these things are like 275 hp stock right? At what point would it be recommended that I go with installing head studs to keep from blowing the heads off these things?
How are head studs installed anyways? I hear they are a pain in the @ss but i don't kno how.
I believe once you get above 40-45 psi boost is when it is required.
Excuse the ignorance, but it seems to me that if you do them with the head on and you remove one head bolt at a time aren't you risking the gasket integrity since it is not torqued at that moment?
Doing one at a time will work. Neal there will be enough squeeze on the gasket with all the other bolts in place that it will not hurt anything. Most guys when doing studs and not the rest of the engine do them one at a time and I don't recall any one having problems.
I believe once you get above 40-45 psi boost is when it is required.
Excuse the ignorance, but it seems to me that if you do them with the head on and you remove one head bolt at a time aren't you risking the gasket integrity since it is not torqued at that moment?
Its not the boost that kills headgaskets, its the higher cylinder pressure that is associated with the larger injectors, propane, nitrous, etc... Studs can be done in the truck, but its a royal pita. After doing half a side i decided it would be easier to just pull the engine since my trans was out getting freshened up anyway. I pulled one headbolt at a time and replaced it w/ a stud torqued to factory specs. After all the bolts on 1 head were replace i went back through and final torqued the studs up to 135 ft/lb. If your doing the install in the truck you have to rock the engine back or jack the cab to get to the back stud on each side or i believe some have drilled a hole through the firewall to gain access.
Last edited by lukecline; Sep 25, 2007 at 11:47 AM.
Its not the boost that kills headgaskets, its the higher cylinder pressure that is associated with the larger injectors, propane, nitrous, etc... Studs can be done in the truck, but its a royal pita. After doing half a side i decided it would be easier to just pull the engine since my trans was out getting freshened up anyway. I pulled one headbolt at a time and replaced it w/ a stud torqued to factory specs. After all the bolts on 1 head were replace i went back through and final torqued the studs up to 135 ft/lb. If your doing the install in the truck you have to rock the engine back or jack the cab to get to the back stud on each side or i believe some have drilled a hole through the firewall to gain access.
Wow royal PITA. Glad I don't need them yet. Did I say YET??? Hmmm
That horsepower depends on what year truck you have stock HP from 94-96 is 215HP and 97 is 225HP
---------Jeremy
and thats at the flywheel,my truck with a intake and down-pipe did 166.5 hp/ 322.4 tq to the ground.that was 5 years ago the truck had around 50,000 on it.
now it's 500+hp and runs the quater in the high 12's, but to get thier it will eat up some big $$$$
doing headstud with the motor in the truck is not a hard job you just need to jack up the cab for the back 2 studs(1 on each side).do one at time is the only way if all you going to do is head studs
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.