Hello together,

Took of the Belt today to hear if the strange noise still remains - noise was gone with the engine running and no belt installed. So it must come from one of the accessories. Here are the results from checking pulleys individualy:

1 - Alternator: runs free, little bit of magnetic resistance (physically)
2 - Idler pulleys: are running free
3 - Steering pump: runns not free, able to turn by hand without force
4 - Belt tensioner pulley: runs free but not in line/shape with other pulleys, whole unit is bended outward in direction of tension
5 - Crankshaft pulley: not able to turn by hand but runs free with engine runing (normal)
6 - Waterpump/fan pulley runs free (however, noise is coming from here, i believe)
7 - A/C pulley runs free

My question about number 3: should this run also free like the other ones?

After installing the Belt back, the noise is also back as expected. Then i gave real high rpm <5000 to the engine while in park, in a way i did never before. After doing so, i found a sea of clear water contaminated with black stuff at the bottom, looking like coal. It has spraying all the way out of the end-pipe like under pressure during this short acceleration.
I did it one more time: same ****load of stuff all over the place near the exhaust. Since then, the exhaust is dry as before and does not even lose a trip of water. Did anyone has an explenation over this 'watergun' behavior?

Will make a complete Coolant Flush procedure as soon as possible. And have it properly refilled as described in the sticky. Who knows what's circulating in the cooling system at the mo'

Thanks for Your toughts in advance

Joe

97' XLT 3.0L Vulcan, 2WD

 

water pump bearings can be loud when they're failing

i would replace the water pump and do the flush at the same time
antifreeze coolant is expensive.

check the fan thermostatic clutch while you have it apart. should spin with some resistance and no noise. should no be totally free to spin.

power steering pump will have some resistance to turning. vanes drag against aluminum chamber

a 1.5m long section of plastic 1cm hose can be used as a stethoscope to listen and locate engine noises

black stuff that blew out the exhaust is normal, just broke loose the built up carbon in the exhaust.
water is from idling condensation.
combustion engines produce H2O as part of the combustion process, it's water vapor until it hits the cold exhaust/tailpipe and turns to liquid.

 

Most bearings aren't going to whine at the speed that you can turn them by hand, so you need some way to isolate the noise. You can pull off the tension or idler pulleys and spin those by hand to listen for any kind of "click" like noises in their bearings.

The water coming from the exhaust usually happens right after you start the car when it is cold. As 96 says, water vapor condenses to liquid when it hits the cold exhaust system. However, when the system warms up, it should not do that. Similarly, the engine may run a little rich when cold, and the catalytic converters are not working at their full efficiency, so you could get some black soot coming out. But again, once the entire system warms up, you should not see any of that.

It's hard to tell if an old fan clutch is working properly just by turning it. I used to watch it while idling, and turn the engine off. If the fan freewheels for a long period afterward, it probably needs to be replaced. A brand new clutch will stop the fan almost immediately. However, most clutches are in the in-between condition; not new, but maybe not totally worn out, and they will freewheel for a little bit. The surest way for me to tell has been to take the fan off of the clutch and look at the front for any signs of fluid leakage. It will usually form an oily mess and attract dirt around the area. That's a definite sign of failure. Since you're going to replace the water pump, you have to pull the fan off anyway, and this would be a simple check.

 

After seeing this fluid shooting out yesterday, i had a nightmare dreaming of a blown Headgasket and having the car standing at the graveyard next to my previously cracket chrysler..
.. not much fun

But fortunately it isn't for real - have checked oil condition and each Sparkplugs today, one after the other and they have no signs of burnt coolant. Nevertheless, the tricky removal was a good exercise, because new Sparkplugs are on the way to arrive from the states.

Yes, six litres of coolant-concentrat are expensive! Thanks to the huge FORD/Motorcraft warehouse in the neighborhood. I bought FORD coolant with specification WSS-M97B44-D, the only one they have. This number divers from original spec. which is ESE-M97B44-A, please give me a reply if You have doubts to use this fluid.

Thanks alot for Your advises! DIY maintenance and tune-up gives much more confidence and statisfaction, especially when the car runs greater everytime after the work is done!

Joe

 

you're ok with the B44-D antifreeze, upgraded version of original spec.

don't need to buy the expensive Motorcraft stuff, any of your major brand names in EU would be fine. believe Shell, Texaco, Havoline and Mobil products are commonly available there, half the price. any modern auto. antifreeze works well in the old cast iron block Fords except GM Dex-Cool. don't mix types

What type of water should I use in my radiator?

Water quality is critical. Vehicle manufacturers recommend mixing de-ionized or distilled water with antifreeze. Do not use tap water, which may contain minerals that will corrode your cooling system and/or cause scale buildup. Do not use water softened with salts.

 

You have a bad bearing, which one though?
Ball bearings should run freely but with no noticable play & definately NO roughness you can feel while rotating. You can pull & push against the races to feel for any "lumpy ' rotation. Even a slight roughness feeling is a sure sign of a shot bearing. The water pump has a bronze bushing (I think) it will not make a whine usually.
My money would have to go on the pulley bearing end of the alternator. This is under most load & is near the top of the engine where it's hotter.

Good luck,
Aeroman.

 

Still don't know from which Bearing the noise is coming. It's similar to what i hear in turbo equiped european transporters with thin firewalls behind the dash.
Whatever, since this Aero is my new workhorse to carry exhibition boothes around within switzerland, i cannot afford delayed arrivals due to road emergencies. It's a serious issue and therefore, i will replace Alternator front Bearing as well as the Waterpump including Thermostat, Belt and Fanclutch; the least is rotating all the time.

Yes, have also checked any pulley for play. All the pulleys are freewheeling nicely, like the gear on a high-end bicycle, allmost no ending in rotation in sight once they're pushed to turn.

One though i have, is regarding the coolant. Refering to the records the previous owner had left in the car, the last change was made in the year 2000 with 27k miles on (..). Could it be, that the waterpump is getting louder with messy brackwater in circulation? Coolant and Waterpump is a top priority at the moment, second should be Alternator.

You know, many car owners and euro-mechanics are in the believe that us-cars are maintenance-free and will last forever. Yes i totaly agree with the least but my experience is, that only with frequent maintenance they do so. I have a good friend who is servicing aircrafts since 30 years, without properly scheduled maintenance we would have a crash announced in the news every day.. .

All the best

 

Hi all,

replaced the entire Alternator today with the matching 95amp item manufactured by WPS. The noise has 100% gone now, it was indeed a whining Alternator..! It is quiet like a church inside the car, i'm impressed.

But another noise appears now. Belt Squeal a very very loud squeal across the entire rpm range. Some of my thought:

- The Belt i have replaced at the same time is a DAYCO, same size.
- Pulley on WPS Alt. is 6cm OD - Pulley original is 6.5cm OD.
- Belt Tensioner is within operating range but Tensioner Pulley is still bended outward in direction of tension (misaligned).
- The noise is coming from the center region, Tensioner Pulley i guess.

Gone through all the "Belt Squeal" post on here. Will try cleaning the groves on pulleys and maybe reinstall the old Belt for testing purpose. Does anyone had expirienced a excessive squeal after replacing the old Belt with a new one? What to do, que faire?

many thanks

97' XLT, 3.0L Vulcan, with AC

 

If the tensioner pulley is misaligned, it's rubbing on the sides of the belt, and can wear it out pretty quickly. Check the belt to see if there are tear marks on the edges. That could be the cause of your squeal.

I would try to find a replacement for the tensioner assembly. If it's just the pulley that's distorted, you will see it wobble as it's turning. But misalignment means the tensioner assembly is either bent or improperly mounted.

 

Yes, thanks for your reply, the entire Tensioner Assembly is misaligned. Also visible next to the wear indicator, there's this gap between the housings that becomes wider on the right-hand side. To check the Tensioner Assembly i'll remove it tomorrow.

Funny that the chirp disappears for a second when the manufacturer Logo on the smooth side of the new Belt passes the culprit aera.

It only can come better now!

 

With a new DAYCO Automatic Belt Tensioner installed, the excessive chirp from the new Belt (DAYCO) is 100% gone. As described on their Website, a misalignment of one of the Pulleys is in most of the cases responsible for Belt-chirp or in other words: "don't blame the Belt.."

Greets and thanks for your advice xlt4wd90

97' XLT, 3.0L Vulcan, 86k miles