1995 aerostar 3.0 alternator making a loud whining noise , but it is still charging.Is it about to go? I have never had one to make any noise, they normally just quit!

 

Yes your alt's bearings are probably about to go. Any noise from ANY pulley driven device is usually a sign of disaster ahead. If you let it go unchecked they could sieze but they usually make a REAL loud tweeting noise before that happens.

When my stock alt bit the dust it made a squeaking noise and the charge idiot light came on too. A DMM across the battery terminals confirmed that it wasn't charging properly. Since I always double check idiot lights.

It is very important that you check to make sure that your charge light bulb isn't blown. When you start the vehicle make sure that it comes on.

Otherwise if your alt does bite the dust you may be just running the engine off the battery and that won't get you far before the engine stalls due to no spark, fuel pump, or ECU .

From my experience the bearings or the brushes are usually the first to wear out in the alt.

Just pick up a rebuilt alt from Napa, AZ, or whatever auto parts chain is in your region. If you're not in a rush and don't need it right now order from rockauto.com and save some cash.

I installed a Duralast Gold from AZ on my Aero and it's been working since 04.

 

You use to be able to replace just the bearings. Are kits still available?

 

For the OEM Ford alts rebuilding parts are available (from fordparts.com and probably local dealers too) as for the aftermarket ones I'm not sure.

If they were rebuilt from a Ford alt then new bearings from Ford "may" work.

But if it's a new aftermarket alt the outer race hole on the alt case halves may have changed.

I still rebuild an alt from time to time but it's alot quicker to just pick up a rebuilt one and turn in the core.

If you do decide to crack it open and replace the bearings replace the brushes too they will be pretty worn as well.

I had one alt where all it needed was a new set of brushes and it performed right up until I sold the vehicle.

 

on a high mileage alternator, the copper slip rings are usually too rough and worn down with grooves, requiring lathe smoothing.
not a pretty sight when an alternator front bearing seizes and shaft goes. makes big expensive holes in things under the hood.
machining is expensive nowadays, unless one has a friend with a small lathe or CNC machine
by the time one adds bearings and a new brush set, the cost is almost the same with the extra gas of repair chasing.
upgrade at least one level from the bottom tier rebuilt offered by most retailers

no choice on some of the rarer alternators such as marine, tractor. rebuild time. we used to have several small alternator/starter rebuild service shops in the area, all gone.
Chinese rebuilds are suspect because of low grade copper alloys used and very poor bearings.
i've seen too many new 95 amp alternators only put out 70 amps at 3k rpm and 0 amps at 1500 plus the bearings howl worse when new than a Ford PS pump
save the box and receipt, you may need it to return the "new one"

 

That's very likely a bearing going south. Mine went exactly like that, still charged fine though. After a while the noise became too intimidating & I had a new alternator put on...........which failed after 1 year (aftermarket, el cheepo) the AC Delco unit now fitted is a good one.

 

Good evening

Since the very first ride i'm asking myself if it's common for Aeros to have a such audible Alternator. Behind the wheel this noise is in tune with rpm and is drowning even the engines sound. It is like having a turbo or compressor equiped car.. not whining nor squeezing or twitting, maybe best described as a poor lubricated chain on a motorcycle.

I followed the advises in other noise related posts and have used a piece of hose as stetoscope, as well as an decibel-meter: the Alternator is the most noisy unit under the hood of my car. Is this normal?

I have a auction on 'iibay' on my watchlist: Ford Explorer 4.0L V6 Alternator used. Would this unit fit into my 97' XLT 3.0L V6? See picture below.

Sellers pic, JQF17U-AA-


Thanks for Your help in advance!


Tune-up, maintenance update

done:
- A/T drain-flush-refill. Filter change, gasket - A/T shifts much better and earlier now!
- Tire renewall with Maxxis MA-1 205/75/14 - vibrations above 70mph are 100% gone!

to do:
- Belt driven accessoires inspection, belt
- Front suspension tune-up, upper/lower ca bushings, shocks

Most bushings are looking good, except these upper bushings left & right


Dive for this piece from a sunken WW2 destroyer!

 

same 3G mount alternator used in both
95amp

3G side bolt mount out of Explorer will also fit and is 130amp

buying a used alternator is questionable, may have as bad bearing as yours

these take universally available bearings, should be able to find the bearings in EU along with brushes that will fit. brush holder takes push in style brushes.



[http://store.alternatorparts.com/3glargecaseandsmallcase.aspx[/URL]

Front Ball Bearing (Slip Ring End Bearing) for Ford and Delco type Alternators
bearing front
Dimensions: 17mm ID x 47mm OD x 14mm W


bearing rear
Part No. BRG-6000-WIDE
Dimensions: 10mm ID x 26mm OD x 10mm Wide

front control arm suspension bushings always show exterior cracks after a few years. ozone on exposed rubber.
as long as the rubber bushing are tight in the holders your're ok.

magnet on long flexible stick works to retrieve dropped tools, parts. still have tools hiding in my front end expecially around all the huge AWD front axle


how do you like the Maxxis tires? got the AT771s on my diesel Dodge PU and their UE-168s on my boat trailer. great tire.
use the 215r70x14 the next time, Aero rides better with wider tire

use high pressure nitrogen gas shocks only on the Aero, more money but last much longer and stiffen up the ride especially on curvy roads such as mountains.

 

many thanks for your advise 96!

didn't knew before that the G3 have serviceable bearings. Just the possibility to change the brushes was known to me so far.
Yes, you're right: why take a running horse out of the race because of one or two weak horseshoes. I will try to get these Bearings and have it exchanged as well as the brushes. Once again, i appreciate your effort and the time spend to provide us with your knowledge!

You get a second chance dear G3..


Well, i have not much choice which Tires to choose. Since the car was a private import, it remains as a code "X" in the vehicle registration document. Which means, no approved specifications for this vehicle in the governments database. Such cars are approved as "as is" at the moment of registration. I'm required to have 205/75/14 95S mounted - that's the tiresize that was on it upon arrival at the registration office back in 1997. The good thing with code "X" is, owners are able to call for an approvement of any other size, but the newly inspection procedures are very cost-intensive, only worth on classic "muscle cars".

Sure i'm dreaming of large tires with highjackers at the end - would be nice!

It took eight hours of research to finally find the Maxxis-MA1 M&S that matches truly. I prefer smaller tires because of fuel economy and it is even more for the classic-style.



Have matching KYB Gas-A-Just on my watchlist, both front and rear. Not a bad choice i guess.

Last but not least a picture from the messy silencer panel right under the hood. I took it off of the car. It's made with glass wool - maybe not good to have this dust in mechanical parts..



Okay, that was another update on how to recover a "neglected vehicle".

Greetings to all

joe

 

keep an old junky set of 205/75/14s on cheap rusty steel rims for the government Inspector Clouseau's eyes. might even save you some of vehicle taxes.
will look cheap.

have the 215/70/14 or 215/70/15s on 4 fancy aluminum rims off an Explorer, Ranger, large size Ford sedan, Thunderbird (15 inch rims fit the Aero well) for all other times when you want to look cool in your Aero.

 

WAI automotive aftermarket electrical has a distributor in EU
distribution source of most of the alternator parts in above links
WAIglobal - Worldwide Source

 

are you sure the noise isn't the bearing in the serpentine belt idler pulley or the tensioner pulley.
these can really howl.

 

i know but...

 

i'll do anything to keep from having to pay the taxman

 

Guess what.. should have somebody reliable, who's flooring the pedal while i'm my head under the hood

Best to figure out, is removing the Belt and have every accessory/pulley checked individually.

Have a good week all together