i forgot the rear sun gear will also need new bushings you can detect the wear in them by placing the sun gear on the output shaft and check the clearance
also by looking at the oil grooves in them as the wear out the grooves become much narrower
the pump modification kit stops the bushing wear with its increased lube circuit
also the early E4OD,s had too soft brass material which also led to premature wear
replacements corrected that also
and look at the rear of the center support and the mating area in the case if both are worn down it causes a misalignment of the support to the clutch drums
i have a fix for that as well i use a snap ring from a tempo atx part # E6FZ 7D483 A
it is .050 thick i chuck the center support in a standard brake lather using the rotor tool and machine .050 off of the back of the support at the outer edge where teh wear occurs the restores both the support and the case mating surface and also stops teh wear from reocurring
if you decide to rebuild it the clutch packs are adjustable but only three will require it the forward clutch set it to .030- .040 clearence and the direct as close to .040 as possible and the coast clutch should be .030
one other thing inspect the inside diameter of the forward clutch piston for excessive wear where it may have contacted the drum and has worn one side of the sealing area it was a common wear problem but not on all of them if it is worn badly you must replace it

 

thanks trans tech for all the info that you shared with me on the upgrades. i looked on the superior transmission site for the code 62 kit and think im going to buy both the shift correction package with the boost valve and the code 62 pump package and put them to the side until i get everything that i need to rebuild the trans. i would love to put a high dollar torque converter in it but dont think the funds will allow it .

 

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-036743h01.htm trans tech is this the center support hub with the ball bearings that you were talking about, and what about the price.

 

that is only a replacement hub and bearing for the 94 and later update
if yours is still original and has the early style it will require a kit that includes the support and bearing , the input stub shaft from the overdrive ring gear and a swedge plug to place in the end of the output shaft that has the small bushing i talked about earlier
ford may still supply the kit you would have to check but i doubt it is still available

 

you dont need one of those high dollar converters when you use the pump kit
remember what i said about the wallet flushes check this site
Precision of New Hampton - High Quality Torque Converters - Racing, Industrial, Heavy Duty, Foreign, Domestic, High Performance, Classic

 

Precision of New Hampton - High Quality Torque Converters - Racing, Industrial, Heavy Duty, Foreign, Domestic, High Performance, Classic
www.gopnh.com

 

Update on my junk. After haveing the "GOOD" transmission rebuilt 3 times in 4 months, they gave me my money back and said bye. I went and had a Ford transmission put in BY Ford and suprise suprise, it went out with less than 500 miles on it, none of it towing anything. No codes, it just quit pulling. Of course it was over 100 miles from home on a Sunday when it quit. I am ready to have a fire sale on a junky truck.

 

has anyone had an E4OD that seemed to be working fine other than sluggish but yet your Tach is acting strange? this morning at highway speed my tach was in the yellow over 3k RPM but yet the truck sounded good not like it was over reving at all. Ive put a new tach sensor in to clear code 62 and the tranny seems to be working properly but the tach is screwy. Is it the tranny slipping or that tach?

 

dang it I thought I was starting a new thread sorry I was reading this one

 

if the trans is shifting into 4th gear and the engine is not turning over 3k as the tach says it is
you may have an alternator issue
bad diodes can emit RFI (radio requency interferrence) and induce an erratic tach signal
disconnect the alternator and drive it , if the usse is gone it is the rectifier plate in the alternator