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I have three fault codes I don't understand as the truck is running fine.
I have a P0340 that is supposed to be related to CPS failure but,
as I said truck is running fine.
Does this mean the CPS is about to die?
I have a P1249. This is related to the turbo waste gate control.
How do I test this out?
And finally I have a P1670 code. This is the scariest one, it shows
that a communication error has occurred between the PCM and
the IDM. Again, the truck is starting and running fine so I am
puzzled by these codes.
Hey BrianB, your P1249 could be a leaking/loose hose going to the W/G or W/G solenoid s... it self
P0340, is possibly your CPS, it may have hi-cupped and caused the P1760 (PCM) code you should clear all codes change out the CPS for a known good one then drive the truck and test for codes after your run , it was most likely a one off thing even if the truck is running great , nothing to worry about.
What CPS are you running?
Another question do you have a chip?
Hey BrianB, your P1249 could be a leaking/loose hose going to the W/G or W/G solenoid s... it self
P0340, is possibly your CPS, it may have hi-cupped and caused the P1760 (PCM) code you should clear all codes change out the CPS for a known good one then drive the truck and test for codes after your run , it was most likely a one off thing even if the truck is running great , nothing to worry about.
What CPS are you running?
Another question do you have a chip?
Blue,
Thanks for the response.
I am going to check the vacume lines to the wastegate and see if there
is any problem.
The CPS is the one that was in it when I bought it. It is grey in colour.
I have a new Delphi brand one on hand, in case of an emergency, and
can swap that over to see what happens.
I am having battery problems, they are both not holding charge, and
have ordered a couple of Odessey units to replace them.
I did a bit of searching on the US area of the forum and it seems
that all my codes can be caused by flat batteries.
I am going to clear the codes after I fit the new batteries and see
if they return.
I don't have a chip but the previous owner included an Edge Evolution
tuner when he sold me the truck and he used that to set it into tow
mode.
I have not been able to use the Edge to change that.
I am waiting to hear back from Edge on that problem.
I will post again when I have fitted the new batteries and
cleared the codes.
BrianB, interesting ....
The CPS you have is the recall one that Ford have fitted and are fairly robust BUT they are electronic parts and can fail.
The Delphi (CPS HTS10) you have may cause you to stall when you have your wipers on intermittent, there have been may write ups about this .
You might need to fit some ferrite chokes to the wiper wiring harness and the CPS wiring harness before you fit that CPS.
The dark blue Ford CPS is the best CPS to fit for these 7.3 now days , better fuel mileage and smoother idle.
Batteries should be no lower than 80% of their rated capacity
Batteries: Group 65 / 1000 AMP / 850/750 CCA
Both Batteries should be within 10% of each other and tested separately.
Report back when you fit those new starters.
Blue,
Already have the chokes in the tool kit, just waiting for a surge
of motivation to dig into the wiper wiring to fit them.
Thanks for the word on the CPS units. I read many, many posts
discussing the various types of these available a few years back
and came to the conclusion that there was no clear winner.
I will get one of the blue ones and keep it on hand, they are
cheap enough.
Replaced the old batteries and cleared the fault codes.
Took the truck for a run and rechecked on return home.
The 1249 wastegate code is the only one to return.
Tomorrows job will be chasing wastegate vacume lines.
Could be just one of the rubber elbows that the green line goes into.
The red line is intake manifold pressure.
You will need to check the operation of the W/G actuator , make sure the spring pressure is still within it's limits, iirc the opening pressure is 5 psi.
Could also be the W/G solenoid!
Do you have a boost gauge?
Always remember to make sure the ignition is off and the key is out of the ignition before working on the any electrical components.
BrianB, here is some more info on the W/G solenoid and how it functions.
You could verify power to the WGC solenoid by checking for power on the WGC solenoid connector, between "pin 2" (in the photo ) and ground (battery negative). You should see ~12 volts with the key "on" (engine off).
Also
check (If you have access to a small hand-held vacuum pump): Disconnect the red line from the waste gate actuator and connect your vacuum pump to it (the actuator). Pull a vacuum on the actuator and see if it holds. If it does: the diaphram in the actuator is OK. If it does NOT: you need to replace the waste gate actuator; it has a leaking diaphram.
Sorry it's a tad dark it's hard to get good photos with out good light.
What boosts numbers do you see when pulling a load or at WOT? and what tune?
Blue,
I got out on the highway today and put the foot to the floor.
According to my boost gauge I am getting 21PSI at WOT.
The gauge is taped in to the hole where the air intake heater
used to be with one of RiffRaff's plugs.
As I said in the original post I have an Edge tuner that came
with the truck.
The previous owner used it to set the truck to tow mode.
I am unable to chage this with the Edge tuner, gives me some
error message and goes no further.
I am still waiting to get an answer from Edge regarding this
problem.
I did not get a chnce to check the hoses today, hopefully I can
get into it tomorrow.
I have been reading this thread on the US area of the forum:-
Brian B, 21 psi is not bad for a stock turbo , check all the rubber elbows and connecting points.
I have deleted the W/G solenoid some time ago when i fitted a TM W/G actuator, i have no green line or red, it is a manual adjusted actuator, I'm sure your familiar with them, the wiring harness that goes to the W/G solenoid i have made up a 470 ohm resistor to take care of any soft code that would be set if left untended.
Do you get a SES light when you do a test run and the p1249 turns up?
You will have no problems if you disconnect the red line and plug the end of the W/G controller, most people just push the rubber elbow with the red line still connected onto one of the IC clamp threads.
The W/G will still open slightly when under load , you can also tighten up the W/G rod a few threads, that will put some extra pressure on the W/G.
Clear all codes and try it you'll be surprised the extra power you thought you never had, when your done plug in the scanner again.
The DYI mechanical wastegate controler looks a bit agricultural to me, I'm sure there are other write up on the internet/you tube.
The resistor you need is a 1/2 w 470 ohm.
Depending on the tune you have at the moment I'd say yes to be on the safe side you'd fit a boost fooler.
But lets get back to the to the P1249, if you have checked the W/G hose for damage and checked the W/G is operating properly and you keep getting a P1249 it's a good bet the WGC solenoid is cactus.
Did you use a multi-meter on W/G harness connector?
Fault codes
