ATF seems like a foreighn substance to me anyway so your take on it is good to think about.
It seems like it's part lubricant, part hydraulic fluid, part friction modifier and it makes a great cleaner too. I don't see how it can do so many things.
Thanks AGAIN!

Hey, answering my question kicked you up to an "elder user" now you're officialy OLD!

 

In my experiance the trans is the usually the first thing to go on a Diesel truck. I have worked costruction based jobs for 20+years and we have always had trouble with auto trans. If I would of had my choice I would of got a manual trans, but I couldnt pass on this deal. Begining to wish I had.

 

ford trans tech, my truck has a barometric pressure sensor thats on the firewall. i was told that it has to do with the trans, what functions does it have on the trans and what would be signs of a bad sensor?

 

it is there to sense altitude and compensate for lower engine power at higher altitude to adjust the shift strategy
an example is at altitude the engines power can drop significantly and cause the trans to hold each gear too long based on throttle demand
in all the years i have worked on them i have had only one bad baro sensor on an idi
and only one on a powerstroke that brought it to me for a trans concern
to answer your question a bad baro will cause early or late shifting and also affect shift feel , the sensor emits a frequency the processor deciphers and usually a bad one will have an error code

 

dodge cummins . it also has anti rust agents and anti foaming agents
and atf is also the best rust preventative if you coat a part with it before storage
this is based an actual climate studies in a lab with all of the major products

 

That's good because I have a TH400, two 727TFs and three Allison 545s in "storage".
The Allisons are somewhat climate controlled but the other three trannys are in my smallish shop in the back yard.

 

thanks for the info trans tech, that might just be my early shifting problem. i find that this trans shift so fast through the gears that it doesnt let the rpm's get high enough to produce the power that it should. it also doesnt shift down soon enough, like going up a incline it doesnt want to downshift so it can regain its power, it just lugs down and you have to push the petal to the point that ita almost on the floor and then the passing gear will kick in. does this make sence?

 

your problem is the fipl adjustment not the baro sensor
loosen the two large screws in the plate slightly and looking at the fipl from the driver side fender rotate it counter clockwise slightly and road test it if it still shifts too soon move it more

 

yesterday i unplugged the wires off the barosensor and cleaned them up real good and plugged it back in and took it for a road test and it shifts normal now. it allows the rpms to get high enough that it doesnt bog the engine down and rob you of the power from the engine. its just funny that it didnt set a trouble code. maybe it fixed my blinking od light problem, i kind of dought it though. could a woreout solenoid valve cause the trans to set off a excessive torque converter slippage code? if so i might go ahead and buy a new one and put it in when i change the fluid again. what do you think?

 

no , the solenoids work or they dont work
it has a ball and seat and it opens when on so more flow from any possible wear would make it work better
you probably have a conveter issue
there is a repair that could fix an intermittant torque converter clutch slip issue
look for superior transmission on the web they have a pump modification kit i believe they still call it the code 62 kit
install one but i do not recommend using the pump bushing they furnish use an OEM style bushing i use this modification all teh time and corrects several weak points
the tcc slip and lack of lubrication pressure that destroys planetary gear sets are correcctd by this
i am suprised that you saw any change from cleaning the baro sensor plug
but i can tell you this a bad baro will only set a code if it quits working completely
you see it emits a frequency to the pcm and not referrence voltage like other sensors so as long as there is a frequency from it the pcm sees a signal and does not flag it with a code

 

this pump modification kit, i take it you have to remove the trans to install it. so if im to that point then i should go ahead and install a new torque converter and put a shift improver kit in at the same time. is it worth putting that kind of money into a trans that has 244,000 miles on it, or just go ahead and put new steals and frictions in it while its out. i dont realy have the money to do all the upgrades there is to do to these transmissions, but would like to kind of freshen it up a little. what is your recomendations?

 

sorry trans tech for all the questions. i have rebuilt c-6 transmissions in the past and had very good luck with them so for. ive never rebuilt a e4od before but not scared to do it. my question is, is the inside of a e4od trans in a 89 f150 the same as a diesel e4od, other than some differences in the valve body and maybe some extra clutches in the diesel one. other than that they should be the same right.

 

Let's change the name of this thread to "ask ford trans tech".
On that note........ what converter is the best if you have to replace one.

Actually I'll take everyones opinions on this. Especially if you can tell me why.

 

i would go through it while it is out ,all those upgrades you hear about are not needed most o fthem are what i call wallet flushes
the pump modification kit is the most valuable improvement because it chages a couple of hydraulic circuits improves the converter lockup pressure and improves teh lube circuit
to the point you wont melt a planetary
not the center support with the ball bearing is agood upgrade but not necessary
there are many of the old style still out there running
you need to replace the rear two case bushings
and definitely replace the small bushing in the front of the output shaft
and yours will have the old style metal cage low one way clutch in the rear and it most likely has worn the race that bolts in the rear of the case badly if so i would replace the race and the one way clutch with the newer plastic caged one it is much better and wont wear down the race again these parts are not expensive
i only use torque converters from precision of new hampshire and use there RV style converter
you dont need a shift improver kit i will try to find a seperator plate to take a pic of and show you how to improve the shifts with only a .050 drill bit sorry but i only get here from time to time

 

trans tech please dont apologize for only being here time to time. believe me your infomation is greatly appreciated. ive tried to talk to several transmission guys and they just dont seem to want to share any info on the subject, other than bring it in and well look at it. im kind of a hands on person and would like to rebuild it my self and i normaly do all my work myself, i just do alot of research before i attempt it.