problem with replacement HFCM plug

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Aug 1, 2008 | 08:35 PM

#16

juneau76

Cargo Master

Joined: Sep 2007

Posts: 3,049

Likes: 1

I've heard of dielectric corrosion between cast iron and copper, but not between brass and anything else. This does have me second guessing using that replacement plug on my truck.

Aug 2, 2008 | 12:18 PM

#17

Boo_Daddy

Tuned

Joined: Jul 2007

Posts: 322

Likes: 12

From: Chattanooga

Working with marine parts for quite a while, I can tell you that every type of metal has some type of galvanic corrosion. If you have two different types of metals touching each other, then you will get some galvanic corrosion. And the "weaker metal" will deteriorate more.

The only way to prevent it is to only have the same type of metal touching each other.

Aug 2, 2008 | 01:37 PM

#18

blockmanjohn

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jan 2006

Posts: 234

Likes: 0

From what I have been reading, aluminum reacts much more strongly with brass than with steel. In both cases aluminum is the weaker metal and is the one to corrode. A knurled plug made out of steel seems like it would be the best alternative.

Aug 2, 2008 | 05:28 PM

#19

Sark

Senior User

Joined: Mar 2003

Posts: 296

Likes: 0

From: El Cajon, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Green_Monster

I drain my hfcm every oil change which is about 6 weeks and never had a problem with the new plug. I use an allen to tighten and loosen with no problem at all. I agree wth BIS that the stem needs a little manipulating but I find this a lot easier than the stock plug. Needless I almost stripped out the allen hole on the stock plug. What a PITA that would have been to get out at least with the thumb screw you can grab something.

My $.02 ........waiting for change

I agree with Green_Monster, mine has been in for years & never had a problem. I also run a fuel additive.

Feb 6, 2011 | 09:23 AM

#20

bkvanbek

Senior User

Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 349

Likes: 0

From: MN

I have 116,000 miles on my truck, never heard of the need to drain water. But I have had problems, besides the water, the 6mm hex hole is stripped. I loosened just the bottom two little bolts on the HFCM cover and it drained very easy, into my ear as I was not expecting it to drain so easy. But now what?

Do I just start draining the HFCM by loosening the little bolts? Do I replace parts? Get aftermarket plug, will I have to replace the HFCM cover? I am looking for definitive advice.

Feb 6, 2011 | 09:54 AM

#21

moebdick

Elder User

Joined: Sep 2004

Posts: 821

Likes: 1

From: Nashville

I still use the original steel plug and rubber o-ring that came with my '04 and it has never been stuck or hard to turn. I only tighten it until it bottoms out, then I back it off and resnug a couple of times to be sure it's not overtightened. I once forgot to drain it for several months and it and it was visibly corroded from some water in the fuel when I pulled it again. Now I drain it once a month religiously. I also put a little clean engine oil on the threads every now and then.

Bkvanbek, if it were mine, I would remove your HFCM manifold and try to remove the drain plug so you can use that to drain the HFCM instead of having to remove the two bottom bolts. If you can't get the plug out, then replace the manifold. From what I read on your other thread, you really need to make sure your HFCM is clean inside anyway. You should also download a manual for your truck. In addition to the HFCM drain instructions, there is lots of important stuff in there.

Feb 7, 2011 | 07:50 AM

#22

bkvanbek

Senior User

Joined: Jan 2004

Posts: 349

Likes: 0

From: MN

Will the steel plug work in mine, or a new manifold? Should I get the aftermarket plug?

Feb 7, 2011 | 08:09 AM

#23

moebdick

Elder User

Joined: Sep 2004

Posts: 821

Likes: 1

From: Nashville

Yes, the steel plug is OEM and comes with the HFCM manifold kit, part #6C3Z-9B249-C. I assume by "aftermarket" plug you are asking about the brass International/Ford replacement plug, with the little T retainer and knurled **** that allows hand removal. I haven't used it, but I think with regular maintenance it should be fine. Some folks like the added convenience of the knurled ****. Have a look here and decide for yourself:

Diesel Technician Society