Hypermilers thread

i had a feeling this may not be something easy to do.since the a/c is now unplugged for the winter perhaps i'll just unhook that jumper i placed in the low cutoff switch connector so the controller just don't control my e-fans at all for now.
eventually,i will want MIX and DEFROST to work,yet not turn on my e-fans either.so i'll have to get digging and see if i can find out how to bypass those two settings from controlling the power to the a/c compressor.
if i just wanted to run a switch and make it work,i would just bypass my e-fans wire directly to that rather than using the a/c
s power.i'll figure it out somehow lol.
i'll probably have to hunt down an entire a/c schematic to find out what i need to do.or perhaps i will be SOL and its all done internally in the switch,which would kill my idea on keeping everything auto,yet function the way i want it.
all simply done if it wasn't for wanting the e-fans to run when i tuned on either of the A/C settings, yet nothing else.

im hoping both!
now i just need a couple end caps.
that's 8" ADS (Advanced Drainage Systems) plastic culvert.it's very thick and rigid.
good place to hold a spare fan belt,fuel filter etc up in one end.i can drag 'em out with my pole saw,or i'll use two end caps that can both be removable so i can reach in each side would be wisest i guess.i can screw a couple eye hooks on each side,and use a bungee strap to keep the caps in place,but im getting off from the aerodynamics part of it now lol.
anyway,i figure it has to be better than dead hitting a flat wall up there,if not all's good as it still makes a good tool carrier.less to unload for dumping,the better.
perhaps an RV deflector up there would still help push her up another .1 - .5 mpg i dunno.i mainly only go 40-45mph avg.
if i had an extended cab,i'd have more room to rig up something to divert the sides a bit.probably id use the same stuff.can't do that with the reg cab though or i couldn't open the doors.

im gunna try a couple 4" PVC pipes up and down,the outer sides to divert a little more air.
............
on another note;
e-fan conversion details:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9914738
spare timing meter for parts should be here Monday.so i'll have some reports/results to share what current settings are and what i can tweak out of playing with that too hopefully soon.
come on 16 MPG real world avg diesel dually dump!
Seriously, that should make a good,out-of-the-way storage vessel. Plus dirt bags might not think to steal stuff out of it.
Can't hurt with aerodynamics either, like you said.

starting on some aero mods now thanks to some help over on ecomodders fuel economy forum.david85 stopped in to help me out too! so i started with one of his and others suggestions to clean up the stake sides.
front air dam,side skirts,and some sort of tail type foldaway wings on the rear will be next on the list.

for the rear.here's the idea:
Trailer Tail Improves Miles Per Gallon
DRW tire hop issue fixed,and solved my fuel economy problem.
after replacing the ip,and not seeing anything pop out at me,my next fuel up,i run up to a 3rd tire shop where luckily i found a guy who looked everything over good for me and solved the issue.fuel economy shot right up,showing my recent mods such an electric fan swap/synthetic oil/perhaps a bit from the culvert tool holder etc.
the truck felt so free and smooth,the rear tire issue had progressively gotten worse over time,that i almost forgot how the truck should go!
now with a smooth truck,i headed home to double check my timing,and adjust the TPS to hold OD longer.since the truck rolls so much easier,i didn't need it to kick down to 3rd so soon.this helps too.
no fuel records yet with the aero mod,but soon.
things are looking up! im heading in the right direction again after a long progressive downward spiral.
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Garage FillUp Listing
if anyone with a large utility/stake side bed,etc wants to follow along,and or copy some ideas provided.be sure to check it out.because i doubt i'll do every suggestion there,where as you may be interested in some i don't do;
aerodynamic improvements; diesel,dually,dump - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
it probably should have been coroplast (plastic sheets) so it would last longer.
but i just grabbed some stuff at home depot,and primed and painted it.
this light weight stuff here:
3/16 In. x 48 In. x 96 In. Tempered Hard Board - 832780 at The Home Depot
i guess as long as i keep it painted,it may last a couple years.
I've never been able to conclusively test that tailgate theory for myself. Whenever I had my tailgage down, I also had some railings stretching out behind the truck. Whenever I was empty enough to not have to do that, the tailgate was up. Mythbusters' test on the issue was with an 04 model F150 crewcab if I remember right, and those trucks have pretty short boxes so it might make for a difference in how they perform compared to our "real" trucks with 8' long boxes. The F150 also has a different windshield rake and higher beltline so its hard to compare against that.
We'll see what happens this summer but I'd like to test with the gate up, down and removed completely. If I really get ambitious, I could also look for (or make) a bed cover to see what that does.
David, I travel at about 65-70 depending on how tall I am feeling that day, night or anywhere in-between. I did it with the tailgate on, no cover, tailgate off, tailgate lowered. My best result was the tailgate off, I also replaced the rear shocks, giving the 84 the extra height in the rear, for some reason that seemed to help as well.











