a little more expensive, "cool" option, would be to use a cowl hood. may even help the aero out just a tiny bit.

 

I NEVER WOULD HAVE THOUGHT OF THAT.

 

i forgot to update my latest.
so during body work,i needed a new front bumper cus mine was rotted out.
so i updated to the latter 94+ bumper mostly found on the PSD trucks.
the issue however,is increased frontal drag because of the two large center holes.
introducing more air into the front of the vehicles is the total opposite of what you want when looking for max aero.
if you read up on the hypermillers forums,you'll see them boys struggling to block off tiny cracks between headlight trim,looking to reduce all the drag they can,let alone massive holes.
so to keep the nicer styling but keep air out (iv no need at all for more cooling,nor do i have an intercooler.either of those would change things) i install dual SD lights (i dunno,like 99-05 roughly.)
now i just need to block of the smaller center hole with something just as clean looking.perhaps another light,reflector,or simple black plastic filler.i don't want to move my plate up,cus it would mean two extra holes.less holes the better to keep her from rusting.
(otherwise,the truck is all stripped down here,to save money on getting her painted.nothing to do with aero modding. )



for the actual function/install wiring info:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ght=fog+lights

 

Looks good F250...

 

thanks.i thought it was a pretty sharp way to block her off.

 

Yeah, it looks pretty nice. I on the other hand....have to get my turbo back into operation...it died on me this morning(nasty snap on startup)

 

nailed her again by running warmer engine/trans temps/grill block/partial front roof on dump.exactly too.not sure how i managed that one.must have been just enough granny take offs.
2012-04-01 17.00 314.1 18.476 40
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Garage FillUp Listing

iv long since lost that side skirt (not literally lol.it was too flimsy for that and didn't work out) and need to make up some rigid lower ones now,meeting the bottom of the tool boxes.(likely some nice rigid sheet metal which i'll blend in to the bed sides via black paint.)
also i left the smoothed out sides off the stake body now too.that thin paneling rotted out finally.
not sure how much improvement that ended up making.not enough to worry about i dont think.should i decide to smooth her out again latter though,i'll go with some permanent black diamond plate aluminum sheets.
rather than install the full length enclosed roof,i just enclosed the first half.
what im thinking of now,is to ditch the rear swinging gates for a tommy gate (my back will really thank me for that addition) and to have a rugged tarp i can pull tight,and angle down from the roof (which is a little better than half way of the bed) downward to the top of the lift gate (which would about half way up to 3/4 the way up the enclosed stake sides) which should help air flow slide off the bed much better according to researching the hymermiller forums.sort of making the fastback drop off style,inside the dump bed if you will.at least when empty.
i still need to fill the center hole in the new bumper too.that's a miserable drag hole.least it's just the small one left to take care of though.should of thew some duct tape over it for now,might have hit 17.1 lol.

 

this seems too aerodynamic

1988 Ford 1 ton project truck

 

i'd buy it. set of 3.08 gears with a ZF5 and get 18 mpg at 80 mph. hell yeah.

 

check this out guys.
Electric-Hybrid Truck Conversion | *fuel*efficiency.org

 

I've gotta convince at least one of you internet experts to set up a homebrew biodiesel operation.

I drive for $1/gallon.

-Matt

 

That's the exact same motor I'm running in my car. Only difference is mine bolts to the transmission instead of acting like a drive shaft center support. Its a neat idea, but that particular motor can only help acceleration. Series wound brushed motors can't easily become generators, so the system will only return half the potential gains of a hybrid (braking is just as wasteful as acceleration).

The 20% gain is also very subjective based on what sort of driving cycle they are citing. Once the battery runs low, it becomes dead weight. Its still a neat idea and for short drives it would in *theory* be possible to go pure electric on one of our trucks. I even toyed with the idea of putting power in through the PTO at the transfer case - but I'm not sure if the 1345 or 1356 would take kindly to that (power going in instead of out).

The setup price would easily pass value of the whole vehicle though....

 

how long would the batteries last David with 8k lb empty/upwards 16k gross?
or about how many times would it help take offs before needing a charge?
does it assist all the up to 35 mph when the converter locks,or just like 0-10mph or so?
also i couldn't quite find the total price it would cost either?
i drive rural stop/go traffic for the most part.not worth it really? do the motors and batteries last long enough to give a payback?
the system is primarily just for delivery trucks/buses mostly,with stop and go driving all day,and not really worth the effort for a rural - city driven truck then?
so many questions.

 

I wouldn't advise using that system on something that sees a lot of gravel, mud, snow, salt, rough terrain, or all of thee above.

Look closely at that motor and you'll see it has open vents at either end for cooling purposes. You can block them off and used filtered, forced air cooling, but that adds a little to the cost and its still not water tight. I would also have doubts that the single keyed 1" shaft on the motor could withstand the type of torque our IDIs put out.

The E4OD has a similar diameter input shaft fron the torque converter, but it uses tight fitting splines. Keep in mind the 1st gear output of the transmission will be magnifying the engine torque by the ratio of that gear pluse whatever the torque converter adds, so snapping the motor shaft might be possible if you were to get mad enough.

That system was offered quite a while ago, but I'm not aware of many that have used it. Granted, I haven't been looking too hard. Straight electric conversions like that S10 are out there however. But again, with their obvious limitations.

The main disadvantage is it cannot regenerate. A 3 phase motor offered by bigger name companies like UQM are sealed, liquid cooled and put out a lot more power (with a price to match!). As much as I like the simplicty of a warP 9 inch motor, it is after all, a glorified forklift motor.

Cost varies by the size of the system. Batteries shown were lead acid (century old technology and not in a good way) and would likely start to show their age after 5 years tops or 500 cycles - whichever comes first. The batteries I'm running could last beyond 10 years (or 1500 cycles depending on the depth of each discharge), but nobody knows for sure since the chemistry is still less than 10 years old.

I would plan on at least $6000-$8000 for a starting point. And that would likely not be capable of much more than 20 miles on battery power with speeds limited below 55 MPH.

So it begs the question; if you are only driving 20 miles a day, how long would it take to pay off even if the engine does run less efficiently on relatively short drives. In reality there likely wouldn't be much of a pay off at all.

 

I find it interesting how people find these kind of things efficient but when someone says HHO, there's an uproar of hoax accusations. I'm not saying F250 or anyone else here has even mentioned HHO or made accusations about it but on many other forums, it is called snake oil quite frequently. I'm still working on building an efficient HHO generator but when I am done, I plan to test it out and see if my MPG goes up or down. At that point, then I can say if it has an effect.

I'm still surprised F250 isn't running a turbo, HHO, and WMO/WVO after looking at all the other mods he has done.