how may of you guys out there have a kicker solo baric. i have a 10" L7. and a 600.1 amp. i want more sound, should i get more?

 

either get more of what you already have, or get bigger subs w/biggers cones and mags.

remember, your amp should always be able to put out more than your drivers are rated at, never the other way around.

What kind of sound are you looking for?

 

i am looking for blow out bass. its already a head turner. i played it loud last night and walked down the street and heard it down there. its a lot louder than i thought.

 

are you sayin its loud enough now?

The night air is usually more suited to transmitting sound than that of the day. Also, there is less background noise, so you seem louder. Plus, as you subs break-in, they get looser and louder.

 

can i ask why u wanna be heard down the block? i know i perfer my sound inside and not to be heard outside much.

 

I would get a second 10" L7 and a bigger amp. At the last local competition I went to another guy kicked the pants off of me with that setup. He used a custom, "ported" box that filled the back of his exploder. The enclosure wasn't so much ported as traditionally thought of, it had two channels coming from the rear of the box, flush with the front. I mean ported is what you would call it, but it was a new spin put on it. ANYWAYS, he out did me by 10db's and we both had only "1000watts". I can't remember the brand of amp he was using, but it worked and worked well. My .02

 

Yep, you always get more spl from adding another driver. Keep in mind though, that adding a driver in series will cause a phase shift of 15 degrees. Try to keep them all in parallel. An amp per voicecoil is the best way. Also, consider mounting the drivers so they face each other at angle, some call this a "powerwedge", I call it simple horn loading. If you have only one speaker, try fitting pieces of wood in a rectangle horn shape, or use the back window as a horn. Horns are powerful, I know a guy that cracked his basement wall with a horn at 13hz. Thats some power, man!

 

13hz, you cant even hear 13hz. but i bet you could feel it!!!!!

 

I have a 15" solo baric L7 behind my passenger seat in my ranger with an MTX 1700 watt amp....it will get you some serious attention when you drive around...it really hits hard

 

my god. im still using 2 12" kicker impulses at 200 rms. im jelous now. i know myne aint as loud as your all but ive cracked my back in my tempo with it. ive said it before and ill say it again. kicker knows how to make an awsome sub. even at 200rms they own.

 

Hi. I'm new to this forum but participate on many of the car audio forums. You say you already have 1 10'' L7 on 600 watts, but you didn't say what type of box, what size box, and if ported what the box was tuned to. Solo's really perform well in large ported boxes. I've never really used the 10's, but I know the 12's peak at about 10-12hz higher than port tuning. If you ever want to compete, find your vehicle's resonant frequency(ask me if you dont know how) plug it in a program like WinISD Pro (www.linearteam.org) This program can tell you what to tune your box to for a peak at the vehicles resonant freq. SPL involves alot more than the average person imagines. If you just want to bump a lil harder, go to a ported box, if you already have a ported box, get another sub, more power, and a bigger box. With the Solo's kicker says to use separate chambers with separate ports for SPL. Feel free to email me if you want.

 

>Posted by RanDawg
>either get more of what you already have, or get bigger subs
>w/biggers cones and mags.
>
>remember, your amp should always be able to put out more
>than your drivers are rated at, never the other way around.

A larger size motor doesn't necassarily mean the sub will get louder. And why do you recommend AGAINST an amp that is rated for less than what the sub is rated for? The amp's power rating is just a number; it's up to the user to determine how many watts the amp will actually put out. Tell me what is the difference between the following:

* A 400 watt amp pushing 150 watts to a 200 watt sub
* A 150 watt amp pushing 150 watts to a 200 watt sub

The sub sees 150 watts either way.

>Posted by optikal illushun
>can i ask why u wanna be heard down the block? i know i
>perfer my sound inside and not to be heard outside much.

Loud stereos in residential areas both upsets many people (including myself) and gives all of us a bad name. If you don't believe this, there are many anti-car audio websites out there already.

Tempe

 

>And why do you recommend AGAINST an amp that is
>rated for less than what the sub is rated for? The amp's
>power rating is just a number; it's up to the user to
>determine how many watts the amp will actually put out.
>Tell me what is the difference between the following:
>
>* A 400 watt amp pushing 150 watts to a 200 watt sub
>* A 150 watt amp pushing 150 watts to a 200 watt sub
>
>The sub sees 150 watts either way.

Well, its not a hard n fast rule, but basically, an amp should be able to put out more watts than the sub can take. You should know this by now. Go read from the gurus, Richard Clark and David Navone at carsound.com if you don't believe me.

To answer your question, a 400 watt amp that is pushing 150 watts to the subs is pushing a very 'controlled' 150 watts. Not a distorted, clipped 150 watts like if your close to overdriving a 150 watt amp. A 100 watt amp powering a 200 watt sub would be more likely blow the sub because the listener will want to overdrive the amp, and the amp will clip and the sub will be out of control. Furthermore, as the power rating of subs go up, the efficiency of them goes down, generally speaking of course. This means that the sub would require more power to be in control and produce spl. Most times, one should compare dampening factors of amps and subs and be certain they match well. A good example of this is the e12k (400wrms) sub compared to the JL 12w6 (300wrms), the e12k is less efficient, but can handle more power. Also, many more times than not, manufacturers 'pump-up' their ratings to sell more. Therefore, it is good to get a slightly more powerful amp than the sub is rated.

To sum up, a high power amp has the power to keep a high excursion sub in control, and a high watt rated sub needs this power to keep it in control. Make sense?

I've never blown a sub by having too much power, but I have by not having enough power.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Jan-03 AT 00:31 AM (EST)]Please read the above thread, particularly dnewma04's replies. He explained it MUCH better than I have able to.

 

Look, I'm not gonna get into a pissing contest with you. I stand by what I've said and dnewma04 is wrong.

When your amp pushes a cone outwards and doesn't have enough power to pull it back before the next signal comes along telling it to push outwards again, you get a blown sub. Cut n dried. I seen it time and time again. Only once have I seen a sub overpowered by a very large amp. This sub emitted very large amounts of smoke (from a sealed enclosure no less), yet still played for a while until it seized. Why do you think they list the dampening factors in the spec sheets anyway? Why not do some thinking of your own and quit listening to wannabe's.