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TransGo E4OD-HD2-D Install Article

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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 02:51 PM
  #61  
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I am in the middle of the install. I noticed that the plate that the little filter was in is one piece on mine, it goes under the accumulator and main VBs. I pulled the accumulator, and am installing the springs. Does the calibration plate go over the plate that is there now?
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 03:19 PM
  #62  
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Now I'm taking apart the VB, but the line mod and valves won't come out after I remove the little W shaped clip. I tried to remove the line mod, and 3rd and 4th plugs, but they won't come out all the way. Once the part after the gapped section meets the edge of the hole, it stops.
How do I get them out? I'm using the little bolt as suggested.
Thanks
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 04:31 PM
  #63  
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The TransGo calibration plate goes between the accumulator VB and the black stock large plate that's there now.

As far as getting the pistons out, you have to either tap the VB on to "coax" them out, or use some kind of tool to push it out. Mine came out fairly easily after pulling the clips, but I had to coax a couple. I did use a screw to pull the one out that's tapped. When you put them back in, make sure they move in the bores like they're supposed to. You don't want them stuck way down in there.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 09:22 PM
  #64  
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Do you think there would be any harm if I heated the VB a bit to try to get the holes to expand? It just seems that the plugs are a tiny bit too big to come out.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 09:30 PM
  #65  
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I wouldn't heat it. Use the bolts and work it out. It went in so it will come out.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 09:32 PM
  #66  
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What's happened to that sig Joe?

Joe
02 F250 XLT CC SB 7.3L PSD 2WD Auto
It’s got some mods. <!-- / sig --> <!-- controls -->
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 11:24 PM
  #67  
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I got them out with some wiggling and such. Replaced the springs, drilled the holes, and put the VB back together. So, tomorrow, I'll reinstall the VB and flush the trans.
Thanks guys
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 11:27 PM
  #68  
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There ya go. Good luck and enjoy. A proper tune will really take advantage of a shift kit too BTW.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 11:32 PM
  #69  
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Yup, I'm planning PHP before the end of the month. Also, I was reading the Mark K flush procedure. It said to warm up the trans before flushing. How can I do that if I've already had the pan off and all that fluid is out? I can't go driving around with an empty pan.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 11:38 PM
  #70  
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I'm sure you mean that you are going to reinstall the pan, then add fluid, and then flush it right? Don't worry about driving it, just start it and check the fluid, make sure it is right after shifting through the gears in the driveway. I didn't do any driving around. Then do the flush until all the fluid coming out is clean new stuff. That is what you meant right?
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 11:41 PM
  #71  
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Right. So, After I put the pan on, how much fluid should I have to add to replace what came out when I removed the pan and VB? Should I pour it in the dipstick tube?
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 11:42 PM
  #72  
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I believe it's six quarts initially.

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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 11:47 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by 74baja
Should I pour it in the dipstick tube?
Yep, unless someone has figured out a better way.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 11:50 PM
  #74  
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Thanks. I'm just going to add the 6 qts, start the truck, run through each gear with foot on brake, stop truck and unhook cooler line like in Mark K's procedure, start truck until I can see air in the line, kill it, add 6 qts, and repeat all this until 19 qts have been added, then top it off.
Thanks guys, you all are so helpful
 
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Old Sep 19, 2009 | 11:54 PM
  #75  
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It's best to have an idea how much you flush out before just throwing in 6 quarts. Mark your bucket. Try not to overfill if you can help it. That includes the initial fill after you get it together. Use the dipstick.
 
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