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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 12:05 PM
  #31  
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From: SE Wisco
Do we should start a new thread and get somebody the just go through with this metal box for the 6637?!?!?!?! It has been talked about for ever two months and I haven't heard anything coming about yet. Maybe we can get the autocad guy some stuff or there are plenty of others that a coming forth that didn't last time it was brought up. Like I said, I could make a box w cardboard templates if they were around. It doesn't look the most complicated. Like I said, I have access to the plasma and TIG welder, but I don't have a break so I will take donations

That jobeperformance one looks pretty sweet and I wonder if you get better airflow with a straight shot into the turbo instead of the big bend??? Can you hook the AFE boost tube (or whatever it's called) up to the 6637? Is the box the only thing that makes a Stage II better than the 6637? I just see how dusty and filthy my engine is and I don't want an open filter in that environment. The dust seeps in everywhere already so even the box will get dirty, but not as bas as if it were open.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 12:13 PM
  #32  
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The biggest problem I see is my 6637 sits right against my mastercylinder, I'm not sure if I'd just run the box straight back to the firewall or cut it around the mastercyl., I'd have to go look at it. Back to the problem, since the 6637 is a DIY, everybody's will be installed different. A little here, a little there could end up a huge diff.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 12:18 PM
  #33  
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From: SE Wisco
When I talked to Dale Isley at Tymar he said the 6637 mod blows for that reason. There is not enough "minimal radial clearance" around the filter. He makes a metal band and basically the early 99 battery tray to keep enough space all the way around the filter. I know if you have the early 99 you get it cheaper bc you dont need a new battery tray. He uses the Donalson (who makes the filter for NAPA) version of the 6637. He doesn't like the NAPA version bc they could sub it out to the lowest bidder sometime and you wouldnt notice. Idk...food for thought.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 12:41 PM
  #34  
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I didn't have to cut my factory filter tray at all....just removed the top half, and the 6637 fit right in there (very tight) As far as the clamp loosening up on the end of the 6637 filter.....I chose to use a piece of 4" stainless exhaust elbow, cut to the proper length and angle, and trimmed the intake hose the right length to work with it. Pics are in my gallery....finishing touches were made by Pete (F250_) I think a shroud that connects to the Zoodad opening would be cool using the factory "channel" that runs next to battery.....then extend it around the 6637 on the other end. Hmm.....the gears are turning!
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 12:46 PM
  #35  
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I didn't run my filter over as far as you did, mine doesn't go over close to the fender. Part of it sits right in front of the cold air intake. I need to get pics.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 12:57 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by TurtleRacing
The biggest problem I see is my 6637 sits right against my mastercylinder, I'm not sure if I'd just run the box straight back to the firewall or cut it around the mastercyl., I'd have to go look at it. Back to the problem, since the 6637 is a DIY, everybody's will be installed different. A little here, a little there could end up a huge diff.
I just went out to have look. You're right about were to run the box. It won't look anything like the afe - no room. I don't think i have room between the filter and the m/c and fuse box ( i could move the fuse box with some brakets i guess) for a sheet of metal. Its tight. It could be run right back to the firewall but then how to do the bottom? Maybe the battery could be moved forward to give a little clearance to m/c.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 01:47 PM
  #37  
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In my own mind, I had planned on moving the driver side battery over to the passenger side (would have to relocate the vacuum pump in order to make room for it, though), and build a box around the entire front corner where the 6637 and battery sits now... then I would run as large a diameter of PVC pipe as possible from both sides of the radiator into the suction sid eof an 8" puller fan that has at least 1000 cfm flow capability (runs at 4-8 amps, depending on the model).... then, I would cut an opening and install a homemade foam fneder sleeve over to the fender well opening so the several more things could happen - more air could get in if more was being pulled through the filter, or excess boost and excess fan supplied air could escape out the fender without pressurizing the cold air box.

Just a few more thoughts to add to the fire.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 01:51 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ron's power stoke
... about the filter..pete made me one for my AFE progaurd 7 filter..it works and looks real good..i need to straiten it out a little on the end i noticed..sorry Pete...
Ron, thanks for offering me the credit, but all I actually did was supply the fabric because I did not then have a model to make a pattern for a cover on the ProGuard7 element.

HOWEVER, Ron, being the very generous and kind soul he is, is sending me his old ProGuard7 filter so I can make a pattern for that filter element and then..... well.... I guess you can figure out the rest of what I was going to say.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 03:36 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by F250_
Ron, thanks for offering me the credit, but all I actually did was supply the fabric because I did not then have a model to make a pattern for a cover on the ProGuard7 element.

HOWEVER, Ron, being the very generous and kind soul he is, is sending me his old ProGuard7 filter so I can make a pattern for that filter element and then..... well.... I guess you can figure out the rest of what I was going to say.
YES!!!

Will buy me some time between filter washes.

 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 07:10 PM
  #40  
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Yeah, I don't think the standard AFE divider will work. I think it's a great start though -- someone could take it and make a few mods to make it fit the 6637 application.

About it "blowing", I think the dyno comparison between the 6637 (without a cold air box and hood closed) and a few different filters can answer that, and can be found in at least one of the long winded 6637 "discussions". I'll give you a hint: it doesn't.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 08:18 PM
  #41  
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From: SE Wisco
I know, notice I don't own anything from Tymar. I just didn't get a good feeling there.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 08:28 PM
  #42  
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Well, I love the 6637, the sound is awesome(especially that unloading sound!). I don't know about the 'minimal radial clearance', I do know my truck runs better w/it. Is it a huge diff, no. Do I own any of the expensive filters? nope, so I don't have a comparison. But, it cost me $30, I'm very happy with it and when I open that hood, people jaws hitting my front bumper is pretty cool side affect
 
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 11:50 PM
  #43  
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Just curious here. Lots of people use 4" exhaust pipe for the connection of the filter to the tube, for a better fit in some cases. Some people aren't able to find 4" exhaust pipe so they use a pvc fitting. What about 4" EMT conduit? Would it be the same size as 4" exhaust pipe? Might be easier for some people to find, and I would think it would be better to use than pvc. Anyway, just a thought, I might be way off in left field.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 07:36 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 00Dave
Just curious here. Lots of people use 4" exhaust pipe for the connection of the filter to the tube, for a better fit in some cases. Some people aren't able to find 4" exhaust pipe so they use a pvc fitting. What about 4" EMT conduit? Would it be the same size as 4" exhaust pipe? Might be easier for some people to find, and I would think it would be better to use than pvc. Anyway, just a thought, I might be way off in left field.

IS it 4" OD? If it's 4" OD and air tight, should be good.
 
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