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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 06:33 AM
  #16  
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Ya, from just what I've read on the forum, it seems like stock rods won't handle much about 5000 for a sustained period, 5500rpm max. My build will have stock rods since I can't afford anything else, and I really am not building a race motor, just trying to upgrade the daily driven (in the summer at least) 460.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 07:33 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ford141
Ya, from just what I've read on the forum, it seems like stock rods won't handle much about 5000 for a sustained period, 5500rpm max. My build will have stock rods since I can't afford anything else, and I really am not building a race motor, just trying to upgrade the daily driven (in the summer at least) 460.
When my engine blew about 1000 ft in the quarter mile I was running about 6000 rpm. The rod broke, never lost oil pressure since it broke right at the crank and a piece of the rod must have traveled up the oil galley and wacked the pushrod, bending it and knocking the rocker arm off the spring. So, I didn;t even know the rod was broken until about a month later when I tore it apart. All i thought was that the rocker fell off becuase it was ticking so bad.

I just found a really good deal on rods off of ebay or else I would be using stock rods again.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2007 | 07:08 PM
  #18  
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Weekend Update

Went out about 8 am on saturday to get started on boxing the frame and found that it had rained then froze and everything was covered in about a 1/4 inch of ice. Got started by thawing everything out with the propane weed burner. Then welded in some nuts so we can remount the box since the holes are behind the new boxed frame. Bought some poster board at Walmart and made templates for the box pieces. Transfered that to wax paper so I could adjust the size so the piece would sit inside the frame. Got that all welded up and called it a day for saturday since the high was about 15 degrees. Today we cut up some 6" pipe in 2" bands and then cut those in half for the c notches. Welded those up and primed everything to cut the rust.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0510.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0516.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0519.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0530.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0539.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0546.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0569.jpg

Also dropped the rear end housing off in Denver to get shortened up 9 inches so the tires will sit nicely inside the wheel wells. On the way back my dad picked up the new seat and dropped the new block and crank off at the engine shop in Ft Collins since the skirt broke and gouged the cylinder about an 1/8 deep.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0560.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0552.jpg

Going to pick up the axle housing on friday and the new tires on Tuesday. Hoping to start on the ladder bars next saturday. Then we still have to start the roll cage and replace the engine. Going to be a busy couple months.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 12:11 AM
  #19  
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WMVDUB, did you guys take the 9" to Mark WIlliams or Front Range Driveline?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 12:36 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Colo79Ford
WMVDUB, did you guys take the 9" to Mark WIlliams or Front Range Driveline?
Sort of odd but I can't remember the name of the place right off hand. It is in south denver off sante fe. I will find out tomorrow.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 12:17 AM
  #21  
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Summit order came today. Got a back brace for moser for the axle housing and a set of solid motor mounts from Trans Dapt. New tires came in yesterday and should have been mounted today. Will pick those up on Friday after work and get to the ladder bars an Saturday morning.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 10:10 AM
  #22  
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From: East Flat Rock NC
Vdub


Looks like its coming along real good, keep the pics coming, I never get tired
of the Pro-Street threads and posts!



Wally Womack
 
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Old Dec 6, 2007 | 08:27 PM
  #23  
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Wally

I originally bought the truck in 2000 for $1200 so I could help out around the house. I was sixteen at the time and all I wanted to do was go fast and impress the ladies. So I found a nice 460 and C6 to replace the 300 and three on the tree and the truck has been evolving ever since. Originally ran in the 15's with some old worn out nascar slicks that I bought for $50 off ebay. Now I am hoping to be in the mid 11's with an old truck that gets me lots of odd looks around the strip. Not to many all steel, full frame trucks in Wyoming used for racing, just hauling cow feed.

Miles Whitney
 
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 12:25 AM
  #24  
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Got about 8" of snow so I couldn't pick up the rear-end so we started on other small projects. Cut up some aluminum for new dash. Took out the stock motor mounts and ordered some solid motor mounts from Trans Dapt. Also started to put in the roll cage. Will add some pics tomorrow.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 12:28 PM
  #25  
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Didn't get much done this past weekend due to the amount of snow. About 6 inches friday, 4-5 on saturday and it has dropped about another 3-4 today already.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0618.jpg

Got the main hoop installed for the roll cage. Also finished the dash piece, just need someone to tig weld it and then I can powdercoat it red. New front tires also on. Got some 205/60/15's from Firestone.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0614.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0604.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0587.jpg




Also got some good measurements of how low the truck is now compared to stock with factory tires. Originally the truck sat at 37 5/8 in front measured from the ground to right in front of the turn signal. With the motor out it sat at 42"/ After the new dream beams it was at 39 inches and the new tires drop it down to about 37 1/4" with out the 800 motor. Should be about 34" final ride height in front.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...k/IMG_0590.jpg
 

Last edited by monsterbaby; Jan 7, 2008 at 11:08 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:25 PM
  #26  
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Finished up the ladder bars today. Lots of welding and measuring followed up wth more welding and measuring. Installed the center section. It is a Mark Williams case with Moser pinion support. It has a detroit locker with 5.13 gears. Tommorow will put the axles back in, the brakes and wheels on and finish running the brake line, fuel line and a few wires. Also going to re-install the box and take it to the car wash. Will post some pics tomorrow.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 06:16 PM
  #27  
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Wilwood brakes back on along with the wheels and tires. Finished up running the new brake lines, fuel line, battery cable and installed fuel pump. Today we reinstalled the box and bolted it down. Need to build a tunnel that runs in between the tubs since the top shock mounts ended up above the box floor.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...n/IMG_0811.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...n/IMG_0807.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...n/IMG_0816.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/d...n/IMG_0836.jpg
 

Last edited by monsterbaby; Jan 7, 2008 at 11:11 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 11:56 PM
  #28  
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From: Colorado
NHRA Rulebook, General Regulations 4:10 ROLL BARS

" All vehicles with OEM frame must have roll bar welded or bolted to frame"

I think the only vehicles allowed to weld the roll bar or roll cage to plates, and attach the plates to the body of the vehicle are uni-body cars????
 
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 01:42 AM
  #29  
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What he can do is put another thick plate under the floor pan the same size as the one welded to the bottom of the tube. Bolt them together, sandwiching the floor pan between them then weld a tube/gusset from the frame to the plate on the under side of the body.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 05:56 AM
  #30  
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I've got some pics that show a friends Pro-Street F150, that's how his cage is tied in. I'll post them when I get home from work tonight.
 
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