$$500$$ Reward!!!!
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
From: Louisiana
Originally Posted by Critter183
I bet you have a head gasket leaking water into a cylinder, creating a hydraulic lock up condition.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,585
Likes: 1
From: Duluth, Mn.
It sounds to me like it's a timing issue.
The ECU tells the truck to advance timing to start, then, after it see's a start condition, it's dropping the timing off the chart?
Have you double checked the valve train geomentry? Set the #1 to TDC on compression stroke , then remove the valve covers. Make sure the Distributor is pointing @ #1, then rotate by hand????
The ECU tells the truck to advance timing to start, then, after it see's a start condition, it's dropping the timing off the chart?
Have you double checked the valve train geomentry? Set the #1 to TDC on compression stroke , then remove the valve covers. Make sure the Distributor is pointing @ #1, then rotate by hand????
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 624
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo, MI
Originally Posted by LoosMaster
It is SD. That is the 3rd camshaft I tried. 1st was the original, then a high-torque performance, which I found out later was not computer compatible, then the CompCam one. All had the same symptom. Also has new lifters that came with the latest cam. I don't have any pressure release when I remove the plugs but it does take about 4-5 full spins on the engine to get it to spin over easy with the plugs out.
After the "No Start" the cranking speed slows down dramatically. After the 3rd attempt, the starter can no longer turn over the engine and I have to remove the plugs.
P.S- The compression is about 70-80psi. No break-in time.
After the "No Start" the cranking speed slows down dramatically. After the 3rd attempt, the starter can no longer turn over the engine and I have to remove the plugs.
P.S- The compression is about 70-80psi. No break-in time.
with that low of compression, you also have no cranking vacuum.
and I'm willing to bet you $500. reward money you have a restriction in the oiling system of the camshaft (like a cam bearing covering the oil port in the journal)
that cranking rpm slowing down is mechanical, not electrical
now, quit screwing around with the electronics and get the engine out of that damn truck.
oh yeah, btw, I drink this:
Last edited by JLDickmon; Sep 9, 2007 at 06:31 AM.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 372
Likes: 15
From: Central Minnesota
Sometimes it is the weird crap............. A few years ago, I had somewhat the same issues with my '88, everything changed/swapped or new, no help. What I finally found, after letting the lump sit for 6 months was interesting. The female plug, that plugs into the eccIV power relay had the red power wire corroded away to just one strand. You have to take the plug apart, the wires out of to find this sort of thing. The other wires were fine! What would screw you up is the one strand would pass voltage, indicating correct power, but could not pass high enough current to keep the truck running. The other wires were not corroded and the truck is not rusty, so it had to be a chemical/flux reaction at assembly I guess. Shortened the wire an inch, resoldered the crimp and away I went. You're probably going to end up finding something like this, you've covered all the "parts"
New User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Wills Point, TX
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 372
Likes: 15
From: Central Minnesota
The problem was the corroded wire feeding the computer, one strand would not pass enough amperage to run the "box". It would, however, give you enough voltage to indicate that the connection was ok, it would indicate 12 volts with the power on. A digital meter would register 12 volts, an analog meter would not indicate voltage. That's how the problem was located. The truck runs great. 460 5 spd with well over 250,000 miles. One timing chain @ 175000. A good complete header exhaust (Banks engineering), synthetic oils, good state of tune etc gives me 14/15 mpg and pulling a loaded goose trailer (15,000#) I get in the 10 to 12 range running 70. 4.10 gears. Other then continuous fuel pump/tank/overflowing issues over the years I'm happy.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 1
From: The dark carnival
Since you have such low compression to begin with, not to mention a problem with your set up be it incompatability of parts or the motor is not set up properly or whatever, it seems that it would be best just to start over from scratch. Say you do figure the problem out...then you have a gutless wonder due to the low compression...so either way you loose. I say yank everything out from under the hood, get a 351 crate motor/C6/8.8 and set it up for a carb....either that or mass airflow.