I also think the valves seem like there adjusted too tight, also 30 psi of fuel presure seems pretty low but i dont know ford fuel injection very well.

 

The whole thing behind it starting, and then dieing could be the hydraulic lifters could be pumping up, and the letting it sit lets them compress again, and it running for a sec again.

 

Kinda makes sense, especially with the 3-5 sec run time. Pushrods too long?

 

Thats what I was thinking. The lash was probably too tight to begin with, and as soon as the lifters cycle a few times, they pump up, and hold the valves open, just enough to kill it.

 

The pushrods are original from Ford that were in the engine. Did not replace those. I did replace the lifters that came with the cam, now you got me wondering if they're the wrong height for factory specs because I did not measure that part.

 

Yeap, go ahead and measure and adjust. then send me the check. lol!

 

I don't think there is a measurement. These are hydraulic lifters. You torque the rocker arm nuts and that's it. I was talking about the physical height of the lifter itself. If the body is taller that what it's supposed to be, then that is my problem, hopefully.

Then you'll get your check.

And then I'll make CompCams reimburse me!!!!

 

what cam are you running. what computer are you running, what is your timing set at with the spout connector removed? why are you removing the spark plugs and turning the motor over before it will restart. did you reuse your 88 302 harness on the 5.8

 

CompCam CCA-35-255-5

Never ran long enough to take spout out. LOL. Read the previous posts.
It's interesting if you're bored.

Ford camshaft installation procedures:

1. Clean the external surfaces and install the tappets in the bores from which they were removed using Hydraulic Tappet Puller T70L-6500-A or equivalent. If a new tappet(s) is being installed, check the new tappet(s) for a free fit in the bore in which it is to be installed. Lubricate the tappet(s) and bore(s) with recommended quality engine oil before inserting the tappet.
2. Lubricate the ends of the push rods with Ford Polyethylene Grease D0AZ-19584-A or equivalent and install the push rods in their original positions. Apply Ford Polyethylene Grease D0AZ-19584-A or equivalent to the valve stem tip.
3. Lubricate the rocker arms and fulcrum seats with Ford Polyethylene Grease D0AZ-19584-A or equivalent and position the rocker arms over the push rods. Tighten rocker arm fulcrum bolts to 25-33 Nm (18-25 ft lb) .
4. Install the valve rocker arm covers.
5. Reconnect Thermactor air supply hose.
6. Install the intake manifold.

I rolled the engine over to TDC on each cylinder before I torqued the rocker arms. This one says just do it where it is basically.

 

I have a friend that thought his rockers were not adjustable either, his motor didnt start. Bent a bunch of valves when pistons hit. That could be you compression loss. If you have a stud mounted rockers, there adjustable. With valve open on cam lobe take up slop with nut then 1/2 turn more on hydraulic lifters.

 

Whoops didnt see the rest of your post. Nevermind.

 

Valve closed , not open when adjusting.

 

any factor could lead to this, maybe they gave u wrong lifters or whatever loosen up rockers so theres a lil play and see if compression inproves at least uknow if ur barking up correct tree. lifter pumpup makes more sence than anything else, and maybe a previous owner had work done or installed wrong parts
on side note summit sells a pushrod length checker so if u did by some chance have too long pushrods all ud have to do is pull valve cover

 

If it is a valvetrain issue, the easiest way to check it is to get it started for the 3 to 5 sec. When it dies, put it at TDC and hook an air line to the #1 cyl and see if it blows out of the intake or exhaust. If so, then the valves are not closing completely. I use the hose part of my compression tester with the shrader valve removed to screw into the plug hole and clip my air line on.
If you are losing compression then either the cam timing is off or perhaps the lifters were boxed wrong and are too tall.
You can also check this by removing the valvecover and getting a cylinder on TDC, then back off the rockers. As you retighten them, look to see if both of the valves are being pushed as all as you tighten them down, if so, then you have a lifter problem.
If only one, then the cam timing is off.
I would also verify all of the chassis, body and ECM grounds as well as swapping the EEC relay with the old one.
My final and easiest check would be the ignition switch itself. The plastic body may be loose and dropping voltage after it is in the run position for a few seconds. I have had several that would do silly things like this until I took a screwdriver and a hammer and tapped the 4 metal tabs back up to keep the switch assembly tight.

 

my only problem with this theory is the slowing down when cranking thing. If the lifters were holding the valves open, it would speed up.