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It still has the problem. Haven't had time to mess with it. Had more work here with hurricanes and other things, just bought a new truck. It's still a side project and will start on again in the warmer months and pull the engine out again and go through it one more time. Will give me time to install the transfer case and mod the tranny for it.
I read all 7 pages like a mystery novel. Jeez was it Mr Mustard in the Library with a wrench? Man, that was 20 minutes of my life I'll never get back.....does anybody know if he ever figured it out?
It still has the problem. Haven't had time to mess with it. Had more work here with hurricanes and other things, just bought a new truck. It's still a side project and will start on again in the warmer months and pull the engine out again and go through it one more time. Will give me time to install the transfer case and mod the tranny for it.
Sorry Loos, didn't see your post. Where do you live? I've been punched by Ike, Gustav and Rita. Are you in Tx or La?
I didn't read all 7 pages, but here is my guess. You have all the rockers adjusted way to tight. As soon as it starts it pumps up the lifters hanging all valves open and dies. If you wait an hour the lifters bleed off and you can do it all over again. When it starts and then dies and you pull all plugs it gives enough time for the lifters to bleed down again allowing it to start and die.
I don't know if the problem has been solved yet but I really dont have time to read all the post. I had a 93 bronco with the same f i system. The vacuum line to the map sensor rotted and clogged the nipple on the intake manifold causing the same problem you're having. Check to see if your getting good vacuum to the map sensor, and make sure its hooked up to the right place. No vacuum at the map will simulate wot and dump lots of fuel into the cylinders. Good luck, Chris.
And I thought I was the only one. I had the same problem in my `90 F150. I found out that there was a short in the wiring harness/ignition switch.It would run then die. I took the small wire frome the starter relay off and connected a start button under the dash,running one wire to the relay and the other to the fuse box.Have to turn the key on then push the button to start it.Ran good like that until I put the new motor in, then it started to do it again.I went through the same ordeal and thats how I found this site.Anyway,this time I traced it to the new MSD distributor that I put in.It had a bad Hall effect sensor in it. I put the old distributor in and it`s running good now. So try taking the small wire off after you get it running again and see if that works,if not try a distributor that you know is good.
I haven't read all the pages of this thread. But I got as far as questions about your compression being low. My question is did you gap your rings? If they are not gapped correctly they may be causing the engine to bind up. You've said it gets to the point where the starter won't turn it over anymore........
I didn't read all 7 pages, but here is my guess. You have all the rockers adjusted way to tight. As soon as it starts it pumps up the lifters hanging all valves open and dies. If you wait an hour the lifters bleed off and you can do it all over again. When it starts and then dies and you pull all plugs it gives enough time for the lifters to bleed down again allowing it to start and die.
Do a compression test right after it dies, and if its zero, then that's a good direction. But unless the battery is dieing and causing the slow crank, it would crank faster, not slower with stuck open valves.
I have read 1/2 the post, and will ask a question related to Compression> early in th post you mentioned 80/90 psi. Are you still having that? I had a similar problem several years ago on a different model motor, but what it ended up being was a pin for the Cam to timing gear didn't set properly and shifted. What it would do is give me erratic run occasionaly, and then once in a while when the sprocket lined up with the cam, the motor would appear to run ok.