when you fitted the 351,i think i read in the other posts that you fitted the 351 computor,did you change the wiring harness as well,according to the ford w/s manual i have there is slight differance in the harness,the pin positions are changed at the computer connector between a 302 and 351.also it sounds like its being flooded with fuel,the ecu is telling the injectors to stay open,other than the pumps going ape and suppliing to much pressure which you checked something has to hold the injectors open,and even tho your engine hasn,t bed in it should have more than 80/90 psi should be 130/150 and your lowest reading should be three quarters of you highest

 

The engine swap was complete. Engine, harness, tranny and anything else that came with it, even the cab harness in the engine compartment was changed.

Yes the ring gaps were checked and so was the piston side play. When the key is turned on I have 40psi at the rail. When it starts, it drops to 30psi, then back up to 35psi after the engine dies and it holds this pressure for about 15 minutes before slowly dropping. It has a new regulator on it.

The 2500 rpm is when it starts then dies. The engine has never ran more than 3-5 seconds at a time.

My low compression may be an issue later down the road but there is enough to get the engine to run.

As far as getting too much fuel, I have pulled the Inertia Switch to shut the pumps off, shot ether in it and it does the same thing, even if I continue to shoot ether.

 

this may sound stupid but my truck was doing somthing similar, exept mine would only die at idle i could rev it and keep it going


but it turned out to be the map senso on the fire wall, i unpluged it and the truck ran perfect.


also sorry if im repeeting everyone else cause i didnt read all the pages but have you tried the ignition modual, and unpluging the condensor.

 

Well if the ether would not keep it running then chances are that it is not a fuel delivery problem the comp seems low but you said the motor is not broken in so that makes seance. I would lean toward spark not staying constant. try to start it with one plug wire undone but put an extra plug in the wire and see if the spark stays strong when it starts or goes week.

 

Did you have the heads resurfaced and if so how much did they take off?

 

None, heads weren't warped or surface damaged. Just cleaned up gasket surface.

 

Check the distributor for cracks and tight fit if it got cracked or not tight it will not stay running and will cause same symptoms that you have

 

I'm suspicious that the "pull the plugs" routine is throwing you off. My suggestion is that you try it with a time lapse, doing nothing in place of pulling the plugs.

I only say that because it seems nonsensical that pulling the plugs would really change anything unless they were wet with fuel, which you didn't mention.

My WAG would be to inspect the computer ground, engine to firewall ground, engine to chassis ground and the injectors' ground. With engine swaps, the firewall ground and/or the chassis to engine ground can be easily omitted.

 

You need to do 2 things: one, is get a noid light and hook it up, two, get a spark tester, the type goes inbetween the plug and the wire and alows it to still fire. Have someone start the truck, and watch the noid light and the spark, see which one goes out when it dies.

 

Only reason I was asking if your heads had been resurfaced is because it sounds like your preload setting on your lifters is a little tight.

 

If they are, it's because the book has the wrong torque value to set them at. I don't have the book with me at the moment to quote it.

 

Try backing off just a little and see if that will correct your problem. sounds like you have already tried everthing else. Good Luck!

 

would explain low compression too

 

I am suspicions about the IAC or a sensor controlling it. You say it cranks slower after it acts up, starts faster with some throttle. Also, the revving thing is odd.

 

Fuel sending unit maybe?or fuel pump...have you checked the pressure coming from the pump..I saw this already but....wouldn't hurt to swap the fuel filter out.Check the Ign module as well....none of those explain the hard ability to spin the motor by hand or otherwise...even with the plugs removed like you said......myabe a sensor on the engine, firewall or airbox has been overlooked...that would figure wouldn't it?Good Luck...I know the feelin.....just sold a 90 dodge fer the sameprice as your reward cause I wastired of dumpin money I don't have in the first place into it.So by all means...good damn luck.