eco
when things get hard or frustrating you don't just walk away anyway what happens when you put a new motor in and it does the same thing then you just wasted a hole bunch of money for nothing, a lot of motors have low comp when first put together until they run for a while to allow the piston rings to seat in to the cylinder walls

 

The above post is right on. I could have bought a crate motor and still have the same problem if it's in the harness. Even if I go carbed, I still would be taking a chance that it could be mechanical and pissed away $1000. A crate motor would run me $1500 plus shipping. I have about $3000 invested in the swap. So as you can see, money is not the issue, PROGRESSION is.

 

Have you checked the spark with the motor having compression on it. I mean trying to start it with all plugs in and a spark tester connected i know this was discussed earlier in the post but i saw no response to it

 

No, I just got off work yesterday, have a few things to do and will get on it by Sunday and do some more chasing.

 

I did not say anything about walking away.

It could not do the same thing if my plan was executed because nothing would be reused.

I am not an engine builder or a machinest, but I can tell you that my 302 had high compression in each cylinder before it ever ran and about 5% leakdown to boot compared to the usual 15% for most American motors.

 

loosmaster, here is my thoughts maybe i am way off if so let me know well here it goes a motor needs three things to run fuel spark and air you said it will start run up to 2500rpm and die with an approx run time of 3-5 sec you also said that if you spray either in it makes no difference it still only runs for the time stated above. the comp is low but the truck will still start and run and three to five seconds means that each cylinder cycled 15-25min rotations working as it should and then one of the three disappeared if compression was to low then it never would have started if fuel was the problem then when you sprayed ether in the motor while running it would have continued thus only leaving an electrical problem i would check all of the wire connections in the ignition system and also do a visual chk of the wires themselves make sure that the system has good ground could take a while but may help.

 

Found this old thread searching for something else.

Anyway - did you paint the block? Check for a good ground between the distributor housing and the block itself.

If it was a remanufactured distributor from a chain store, don't count on it working right out of the box. Can you borrow a 351w distributor with tfi and pip from a known working truck and swap it in?

Did you use breakin lube on the cam? The procedures listed stated to use engine oil, which is what you do for a roller cam, not a flat tappet cam like the 90 engine would have. If just oil was used, it is possible that the cam could be damaged just from these start-up attempts. Not likely that all or enough lobes would have gone out to prevent no start at all, but still a concern. Search threads on flat tappet cam breakin to learn about recent changes in oil formulations.

Is there any chance you have water in the gas from the truck sitting, i.e. condensation. I've seen condensation form enough water that it would settle in fuel filter and prevent the truck from starting, or just starting for a brief moment. Drained water, changed filter then it was OK. Dry gas wouldn't get it, just changing filter wouldn't get it, actually had to put a miti-vac on it and pull the fuel into a clear container until it quit letting water settle out. The truck sat for a long time when this happened.

Do you have an update on anything else you've tried?

Good luck - It's frustrating, that's for sure.

 

did yu pull the slug before yu timmed it,,it disconnects the comp..and l thought there was 2 pump relays....

 

Yeah, what happened with this? Loosmaster, are you still around?

 

His last post was almost a year ago, in this thread no less. I'd be willing to bet he's moved on.

 

I bet he found his trouble and didn't want to pay out on the $500 reward!

 

As far as the starting and running at 2500rpm for a little bit and dying, it could be that the engine is burning only the fuel rail the shutting off. Have you considered the fuel pressure regulator be malfunctioning. The part about the having to pull the plugs before restart, are the plugs soaked with gas? Maybe rotating the engine is just airing out the cylinders. Give it a shot, can't hurt now.

 

I read all 7 pages like a mystery novel. Jeez was it Mr Mustard in the Library with a wrench? Man, that was 20 minutes of my life I'll never get back.....does anybody know if he ever figured it out?

 

It's always a little discouraging when you don't learn the final outcome.

 

Joe Walsh for President!!!!